NORFOLK 



AND THE 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES 



OF 



NORTH CAROLINA 



18 8 8 



NOBFOLK, VA. 
PORTSMOUTH, VA. 
ATLAHTIO Om, VA. 
BERKLEY. VA. 
ELIZABETH CITY, N. C, 
WINTON, N. 0. 
WINDSOR, N. 0. 
HERTFORD, N. 0. 



NEW BERN, N. C. 
KINSTON, N. 0. 
WASHINOTON, N. 0. 
BAYBORO, ?.' '". 
STONEWAi: 
PLYMOOTE 
EDENTON. V 
GATESV 




:> \- 

Library of Co^GRES5 



' UNITED8TATE80F AMERICA. 



NORl'OI.K: 



MMviiii- MciroDdli^df VirLTiiiia 



!nn«in m river CITIES nr north CAROLINA. 



A NARRATIVE 



in 



liKo. I. NOWIT7.KY. 



NORFOLK. VA.. AND KAl.F.KtII. n • 

ITBLISHKl) BY (iKO. 1. NOWIT/KY 

1888. 



23^ 



Kntorod. Tcordlng lo Act of (•onKre.^ In the year 18«7. by 

<JKo. I. NoWITZKV, 

'" "'•• ''ftice of ,he MbrarUn of c«nKrr„. „ W,u.h|„K,on. I.. , 



Mil Mat o» 

E. M. U22ELL. 



PREFACE. 



In writioK this book I hate endeatorrd lo compljr wilh the 
following rule*: 

Fiiurr. In dmcribing pUrm of interwt an*! noted or public 
buildingw. lo write of ihem onir n% thejr exi«l. It i« true that 
Mtmc builtiingH tlfrotrd to buiincM, on arcount of tiriking archi- 
lectnml fralurei», h««l ti> be de»cril»e<l. and, a« a conae^juence. are 
dencriltetl ; but I guarantee that none of the roialeading pufTerj 
will be found in thin lillle cfn»rt which, unA»rtunatelT. accoropanr 
manj of the guides lo other cities, and n)»k.-^ ilwni .-» %',iirr^ of 
ridicule in place of deaired information. 

Sbix)NI>. In writing up historical eventa, to narrate them aa 
they ocrurre*!. using onlv fact* gleaned from indiRpuled aulhoritr. 

Third. Not lo |>ermit the pn>oii»e of reward, in the form of 
advertining patronage, to control or in anj waj interfere with 
roy Tiewt or dearri|>tiona. Thia account* for the abaence of a 
number of advertiaemenU which are usually loudest in other 
publicatiooa. No puflk were pr«^mi«e<l ; in far!, it waa atipalated 
that none nuat be expecteil 

Aw! I.n»t, not to lolicit any adveru- n - r t , ti.. :.>^M,r-> 

of ■iiT of the 

liriLDIXOlt l>BM*RIBr.l>. 

Thia i« the reaaon that Norfolk's worthy reprew^tolirea of • 
profvwion whoee great aervice lo mankind can be traced back 
further than mc^iicine or the law are not to be found in ibe pro- 
fciBiooal dirrctory; <iaW / ftia Jurikrr ao/oaa/y oaarrt that i am mot 



IV PREFACK. 

• 
aeqnainted ri'/A am urrkitert in Norfolk, or have ever ii|Mtken 1<> on«\ 
to my knowlcdxt'- I make this Klalrmenl (o hIiow ilmi I wan ii<.( 
prejuiliciHl in ravi>r ttf any of ihrin ; and, a<* a cunMrtiiience, my 
descriplionit are entirely iin(>ariinl, my oliject lieinK to draw a 
^licdire that the |>oople of Norfolk could lcM»k u|N»n and nay: 
"Thin l» a hketch of our city a» hcen by nn ini|»ariinl htrnnRer"; 
and the stran^ter, nflcr ii!«ing it nn a guide, lake^ it to hin home 
a« a itouvenir, realizing thnt it is n di>Acri|ition of Norfolk an it is. 
Ilaring thus given the nili'M which guidttl uiy descriptiomi, I 
respectfully cnll the ntlenlion of tin* reader to the following 

EXPLANATIONS, 

which bring this rather long preface to a conclusion: 

Kitensive travel in nuM of the lustrous comhinatioh ■•( >i.ii.«» 
and Territories which form our conunon country has taught me 
that the way to improve a city {h not l»y favorably exaggerating 
ihe ap|»earance of her nrrhitcclural nn<l other improvenient««, but 
by pointing out objectionable defeclH as well as gratifying eflects, 
Kxperience. gained the same way, has also taught me that the 
majority of people, in reading descriptions of their cities, prefer 
flattery to facts. I write thin because I fear that some of the 
citizens of Norfolk, ufMin a hanty |ierusal of this work, may think 
that I have been unnecessarily sarcaniic at the ex|H>nsc of some 
of their buildingn; l)ut I am satis(ie<l all this will l>e dis|>elle<l 
when they deliberate and realize that flattery blocks ail roads to 
improvement, while an honest narration, even if it verges on sar> 
cmsm. acts as a spur, and often force* u« on the direct nuid to an 
excelling |K)inL Other buildings will have to be built, and the 
only way we c*n improve !•» l»y n<>i Hlmiiin^ our eyi** lo ^taring 
faults in existing structur. 



fllFKArF. V 

I rau fiirUivr iMiy, thai m all ibc v«»l IrtttU-ry *»riKl. tirt 
bvlw«Tn thf ('.iiia'liaii botimUrv afMl (he Mriic«n linv I have 
iMvrr f(><> '^'n or village, a commnntlj whu«« cordial 

irrredni; m»% iiM»rr Mimtrre ami whc*e nrm« of hone«( hoapiulitv 
have been wi«lir o|»en lo me. For lhe«ie rea«oii«. I c-an con- 
M^ienliuiivly write that nij pen hna been guided by a mind 
MiUrtly fr«« from prejudice, an«l ptMae««inK oi\|y the kindert feel- 
ing* (owanU Ni»rf<»ll( and her |»eopIe. If it ha« di«pleaaed evi-n 
the MiiMt rii«ii«ii«>ii«i. I tf>|M- !li«v will rcaliKe— 

■nnvdt 
• ned wtthottt de«igii; 
I" >iii I- Innate in all. 
-T" foncWe !■ dlflB*." 

GEO. I. NOWIT/,KY. 

NfHFOLK, \ A . .N.v l^. |s?»7 



NORFOLK; 



TIIK 



MariiK* Mdropnlis ni \ ii^inl; 

A NARRATIVE. 



C'lIAlTKU I. 

WHICH HHoWMTHRRTrAnc) RRUATI0N'8IIIP KXIHTINO C\*RRY t>AY 

Ml-MtAY K\ 

8IX-TKN I' 

I'MTl'RF. IN lyrt "i i m • i . 

THK OHIMMITK MHOR>- 

It \vn^ Htx-ti'i) I*. M. in i^>rtsnlollti^ Viri(iiiia, »ii«l nil 
the u«M»«l ritiz«»ii«» of* Portsinoiitii. \'iri»iiii:i, kiH'W it. I 
>ay all iiiiln*siia!iiij:ly. Tlic lUnit' :iii<l «liiml» kn«*w it, 
for Ihr tniiii of the SulMianl nuul. I>rinj;iii>j in llio Tar- 
Hii'l rnnil, traverM*?* tin* cMitire l»n*jnltli of the rity 
thn>ujrh it«* Niiilini; buMincss nvrnnr, Hiirli stn'ot, awl as 
a conMiiiKMici' is HoninspirnnnH that tlicy <imiI<I not lirlp 
\}9t. m*e it. Tht> hlin<l aUi had no rfn^miililr exfuso for 
not knowing thai it WJls^ix-t«Ml i». M.. for tli«* niovrnnin 
waM af^iiniiKiniitl hy muoIi shrill whi.HtK»s at I'Vrry *triil 
croMiin);, and th«» n«rt»*el«w rinf^in); of the rnter|>risinjr 
hictimotive Im>II, that no rooMUiahle hiind man oMild help 
hnt hear it: and a«» the few l>lind |MN>plethat i;n»|M' their 



10 NORFOLK; THE MARINE MP:TR0P0LIS. 

remarkable. I'll readily admit that there are many 
other cities, both foreign and domestic, that show more 
heroic architecture. It is true she has no mosque of St. 
Sophia, accompanied by many tapering minarets to 
break the sky-line, like the great city of the Bosphorns — 
Constantinople; nor those great eye-centres, St. Paul's 
Cathedral and the Victoria Tower, the prominent eleva- 
tions of Britain's (or rather, the world's) metropolis — 
London; nor a gilded dome to crown a high hill, like 
Massachusetts' ca[)ital city — Boston; or a natural fea- 
ture (the smoking mountain, Vesuvius) which has made 
famous Naples and her matchless bay. But Norfolk 
harbor has many surroundings peculiar to herself and 
entirely unlike these or any other port. 

To my immediate right I observed the huge ware- 
houses and substantial wharves of the Seaboard road; 
tied to the latter were a number of schooners and the 
palatial bay steamer Virginia, keeping time, with a 
gentle up-and-down motion, to the ceaseless movement 
of the restless tide. To the left were a number of three- 
masted ice schooners (and one with four masts), dis- 
charging their frozen cargo, as well as a number of large 
foreign iron steam-ships, flying Spanish, English and 
Norwegian colors, and all swayed by the same lazy but 
never-failing motion. Further to the right, standing in 
bojd relief, were the bright, yellow-painted buildings of 
the Navy Yard, backed by the distant green woods (a 
pleasing contrast) which look as if they were the bound- 
ary of that part of the harbor. The formidable receiv- 
ing-ship Franklin, floating as gracefully as if she were 
a huge swan, next attracted my attention. 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 11 

Directly opposite the part described is the busy water- 



front of bustling 



BERKLEY, 



teeming with cumbersome-looking derricivs, ways, marine 
railways, railroads, wharves (continually strained by 
the weight of heavily-loaded freight cars), and back 
of them green trees, private residences, saw-mills, the 
old abandoned Marine Hospital, huge lund:>er piles, 
freight sheds, etc., all in such a magnificent but pleasing 
confusion that one cannot help but think that they had 
once occupied different localities, but had, in some unac- 
countable way, drifted together; anci that the tall, grim- 
looking escapes of the mammoth lumber-driers, which 
tower above all surroundings, were placed there as sen- 
tinels to keep them from scattering and once again 
occupying their former sites; this confusion, however, is 
pleasing to the eye, and makes the harbor all the more 
picturesque. But directly in the immediate front w^ere 
the two crowning beauties, which, more than all else, 
fixed the restless eye. The first was the superb stretch 
of water, carrying upon its mirrored surface a magnifi- 
cent moving panorama, among which I noticed the 
black hulk and light npper works of the powerful 
^'Cape Charles," loaded with passenger j comfortably 
seated in the palatial cars which were to carry them by 
land to New York, after transporting them safely 
through miles of Chesapeake's white-capped weaves; 
fretful, busy tugs, which, as if not content by displacing 
water themselves, were towing monster barges with tim- 



12 NORP'OLK ; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

bers groaning under the weight of cargo; great ocean 
ships, their decks covered with weary crew, with eyes 
thankfully lingering upon the hospitable shore-lines of 
this favored part of the Old Dominion; trim, brightly- 
painted river steam-boats, filled with joyous passengers; 
a heavier but just as daintily decorated steamer, evi- 
dently intended Ibr l)ay passenger business; and last, a 
fussy little launch from the Navy Yard, which looked 
and acted as if alive, and knew that the only way it 
could attract attention among these larger surroundings 
was by making as much noise as possible. But the eye 
could not linger here long, for back of all this pleasing 
combination of floatiiig life and business stood 

THE CITY OF NORFOLK, 

her buildings so densely massed that I could scarcely 
trace a single street, and having such a uniform and 
compact appearance as to give the impression that the 
whole had been designed by some master architect, 
moulded by superior mechanics and securely placed 
upon the most appropriate spot — its present site. Her 
substantial-looking wharves, fringed with the tall masts 
of stately ships and the smoke-stacks of fleet steamers; 
further back the solid walls of the w^arehouses and stores 
that line her water-front; and above them all a grand 
display of spires, towers, pinnacles and domes. 



NORP^OLK ; THE MAKINE METROPOLIS. 



CHAPTER II. 

WHICH, LIKE THE PRECEDING ONE, MAY BE CRITICISED AS BE- 
ING INCONSISTENT, ON ACCOUNT OF DESCRIBING THINGS THAT 
ARE FOREIGN TO THE SUBJECT, BUT UPON REFLECTION WILL 
BE FOUND INDISPENSABLE— IT CONTINUES THE DESCRIPTION 
OF ONE OF THOSE SOUTHERN SUNSETS FOR WHICH NORFOLK 
IS SO FAMOUS, AS WELL AS HER GREATEST FEATURE, HER 
MAGNIFICENT HARBOR— THEN DELVES SUFFICIENTLY INTO 
HISTORY TO SHOW THAT NORFOK GAINED NOTHING BY THE 
VISIT OF TOBI MOORE-AND CONCLUDES WITH THE AUTHOR'S 
REASONS FOR GIVING THESE PAGES TO THE PUBLIC. 

It looked as if Nature's "boss })ai!iter" was conscious 
of the fact that lie had the opportunity of making his 
work the attraction of the evening, and for this reason 
was exceedingly lavish with his coloring materials, par- 
ticularly the two extremes — somber, funeral black and 
the brightest shining gold, and as if to show that he 
had exclusive control and could do as he pleased, he 
reversed the usual order of things and threw most of 
his fire and gilding to the north-east. 

A mass of burnished gold appeared as a background 
to the tower of the Baptist church and made its numer- 
ous pinnacles stand out in unusually bold relief, while 
a generous daub of the same material back of the court- 
house gave the dome of that judicial structure a promi- 
nence and dignity worthy of the honorable courts that 
are housed in the main structure. 

, Further to the right the tall steeple of the Central 
Presbyterian church, sni-rounded by a fainter glow, 
looked graceful as well as solid, and the many feet of 
spire which reaches the sky above St. Mary's had as a 
background a fleecy white cloud which looked as if sil- 



14 NORB^OLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

ver and ivory liacl flown together and, thoronghly 
blending, had formed a color for the .special pnrpose of 
confn.sing artists. 

This remarkable blending of sky, earth and water, 
this peacefnl harmony of the natural and artificial, 
forced my mind into a reverie — caused me to muse, and 
as I continued to look at the city, her towers, dome and 
spires bathed in golden sunshine and silvery fleece, I 
could not help but ask myself if this could possibly be 
the same Norfolk so much abused and shmdered by 

TOM MOORE, 

who evidently thought tiiat the only way he could pay 
for his passage across the ocean (in the sloop-of-war 
''built of Bermuda cedar") and cancel other English 
obligations was by abusing America, Americans and 
all foreit^n writers who had a ffood word for either. 

The first American soil pressed bv this ''sweetest of 
singers" was that which acts as a site for the city of 
Norfolk, and it was in 1804, just after a terrible epi- 
demic had visited the city, and many citizens were in 
mourning for the loss of relatives and friends who had 
been stricken by the death-dealing fever. 

But venom in place of sugar fell from the lips of the 
great bard; in place of a tear for the dead and a word 
of sympathy for the living, this remarkable writer, who 
could make his pen weep over the fate of some mytho- 
logical heroine, or an imaginary hero who, with mind 
unhinged, was presumed to wander through the neigh- 
boring Dismal Swamp in search of an equally imagi- 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 15 

nary maiden, abused Norfolk and A^irginia hospitality 
in their darkest hour with the following lines: 

"Norfolk, it nnist be owned, presents an unfavorable specimen of 
America. The characteristics of Virginia in general are not such 
as can delight either the politician or the moralist, and at Norfolk 
they are exhibited in their least attractive form. At the time when 
we arrived the yellow fever had not yet disappeared, and every odor 
that assailed us in the streets very strongly accounted for its visi- 
tation." ' 

When a man at first recalls these words, he may be 
for the moment prejudiced against this city, but his 
prejudice will melt like butter in a refiner's furnace 
when memory glides back and refreshes itself with the 
undeniable fact that this same Tom Moore- jeeringly 
described the government and citizens of the United 
States by the following uncomplimentary and undeserved 
cou})lets: 

"Already in this free, this virtuous state, 
Which, Frenchmen tell us, was ordained by fate 
To show the world what high perfection springs 
From rabble senators and merchant kings — 
Even here already, patriots learn to steal 
Their private perquisites from public weal ; 
And guardians of the country's sacred fire, 
Like Afric's priests, let out the flame for hire; — 
Those vaunted demagogues, who nobly rose 
From England's debtors to be England's foes, 
Who could their monarch in their purse forget, 
And break allegiance but to cancel debt." 

"Oh ! Freedom, Freedom, how I hate thy cant ! 
Not Eastern bombast, not the savage rant 



16 NORFOLK; THP: MARINE METROPOLIS. 

Of purpled madmen, were they niuubered all, 
From Roman Nero down to Russian Paul, 
Could grate upon my ear so mean, so base, 
As the rank jargon of that factious race, 
Who, poor of heart and prodigal of words. 
Formed to be slaves, yet struggling to be lords." 

That the same Tom Moore, who, not being himself 
endowed with snfficient j^rophetic judgment to realize 
that the then small, scattered village of Washington 
would be bound, with the increase of the nation's popu- 
lation and wealth, to become (as it has) a great city, 
sneers thus at the patriot of that date who dared to 
make the prediction : 

"In fancy now, benealh the twilight gloom, 
Come let me lead thee o'er this 'second Rome,' 
Where triinines rule, where dusky Davi bow, 
And what was Goose Creek once i^s Tiber now; — 
This embryo capital, wliere Fancy sees 
Squares in morasses, obelisks in trees; 
Which second-sighted seers even now adorn 
With shrines unbuilt and heroes yet unborn." 

And that this same Tom Moore, Irish by birth but 
unlike the majority of Erin's sons, was so thoroughly 
wedded to the English aristocracy and dyed in English 
prejudices that everything American was so obnoxious 
that he could forget himself sufficiently to describe the 
^^ Father of his Country," Washington, who is generally 
conceded by all liations as among the purest of states- 
men and the peer of any man that the world lias ever 
produced, with these ill-chosen words: 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 17 

" But hold ! — observe yon little mount of pines, 
Where tlie breeze murmurs and the fire-fly shines. 
There letlhy fancy raise, in bold relief, 
The sculptured image of that veteran chief 
Who lost the rebel's in the hero's natne, 
And climbed o'er prostrate loyalty to fame; 
Beneath whose sword Columbia's patriot train 
Cast off their monarch, that their mob n)ight reign. 
How shall we rank thee nf)()n glory's page? 
Thou more than soldier aiul just less than sage I 
Of peace too fond to act iiie concjiieror's part. 
Too long it) camps to learii a st;itcsinan'.s art." 

As I was tlins stuclyiiig the man and his literarv 
works, the engineer's bell was tapped by the ])il()t in the 
wheel-house, and as the boat glided out of her slip T 
dismissed from my mind, for the time being, this "great 
])oet," who had enriehed the world's libraries witli 
"Lalla Rookh"aswell as the libeHous American let- 
ters (not, however, until I had conehided that I had 
con.siderable admiration for the genius of the poet and 
fully as mueh eontemj)t for Tom Moore as a man), and 
once again took a glance at my surroundings as we sailed 
out 'midst the golden suiishine. 

Every revolution of the wheel, every ft)ot of liead- 
way, revealed new beauties as our boat plowed through 
the shimmering, glistening water, which looked like the 
realization of a day-dream. Near midstream one of 
the huge sea-going barges of the Cape Charles line, 
loaded with two heavy freight trains, was slowdy being 
dragged by two powerful tugs towards the ''Roads," 
closely followed by one of the Chesapeake and Albe- 
marle Canal Company's boats, which had in tow a literal 



18 NORFOLK ; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

procession of small craft which had just left the placid 
waters of that great canal. As this remarkable floating 
variety was directly in our conrse, our captain prudently 
brought our boat to a halt. This gave us an excellent 
opportunity to view the harbor from a central stand- 
point. 

To the west, the dense batik of shrubbery and trees 
of the Marine Park, back of the Naval Hospital, looked 
like a solid green wall, and, crowned bv the fire of the 
setting sun, made a most impressive contrast of colors. 
A little further to the north we had a good view of the 
deep waterway which connecits the harbor with the 
"Roads," the bay and the ocean. Almost due north, 
a little west, Lambert's Point, with its gigantic trestle 
projecting far into the water, looked like a piece of deli- 
cate lace held from the sky by some mysterious magician 
with invisible threads; while the bridge of the Norfolk 
and Western road, crossing the P]astern Branch just a 
little south of east, looked fully as picturesque as the 
celebrated wharf at Lambert's, and appeared as if it had 
been placed tiiere for no other purpose than to complete 
the picture. 

As I was contemplating this scene, whi(;h, in spite of 
the fact that it was not the first time that I had crossed 
the Elizabeth, still had many attractions for me, several 
gentlemen, whom I had met before while traveling, 
came to where I was standing; and one of them, wdio 
is known as a man that has traveled extensively in 
Europe as well as America, and is considered a walking 
encyclopjedia appertaining to the sights of all the larger 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 19 

cities of the IJDited States and the British Isles, ad- 
dressed the following words to me: 

"I hope this blockade will not delay us long enough 
for us to miss the Baltimore boat, for I certainly wouJd 
hate to be forced to lay over in Norfolk for twenty-four 
hours." 

"It is our own fault/' interrupted one of his com- 
panions, "for we should have taken the boat wlieu we 
first got oif the train, in place of taking chances by 
coming over here; besides, it's very likely tlie two mer- 
chants we want to see will be at supj)er when we pass 
their stores, so there will be notliing gained. But you 
can rest assured that if I lose the boat I shall go to 
Baltimore on the first train, even if I have to lose the 
Bay-Line part of my ticket. No twenty-f )ur hours for 
me in Norfolk!" 

"Why is it," I asked, "that you have such an aver- 
sion for Norfolk? I have never heard of travelers 
being mistreated there; in fact, the people enjoy the 
reputation of being exceedingly hospitable." 

"There are good people every w- here," replied the last 
speaker, "and Norfolk is no exception. I am satisfied 
that she has as hospitable a class of inhabitants as any 
other city; but if all a man wants is to find good citi- 
zens, my advice to him is to stay at home and save his 
money : he can find them there. As for myself, my 
traveling business forces me to see stores and store-win- 
dows every day, and if there is anything more attractive 
about the make-up of the city than the plate-glass of 
Main street, I don't know it. As a consequence, when 



20 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

1 have a few days off, 1 prefer to go to a city that has 
parks, libraries, art galleries, mouuments and heroic 
architecture." 

" Every word true," remarked the first speaker, 
solemnly shaking his head and looking very grave, his 
eyes fixed upon mine as he continued: "Norfolk, my 
friend, has a population composed of most excellent 
citizens, I also happily admit; but tliat she is V)nrdened 
with parks or places of suflHcient interest to pay the 
traveler to lay over to see, I (certainly deny. Why, sir, 
although I have been there at least ten times, I can 
solemnly assert that I have never been outside of Market 
S(piare and Main street." 

"Probably the reason that you have never found any- 
thing there to interest you can easily be accounted for 
by what you 've just admitted — that is, that you have 
limited your explorations to those two streets." 

"Now, my friend," replied the gentleman with much 
American and some European experience, "if you are 
trying to convince us that Norfolk has any overlooked 
attractions, you might as well quit, for you are wasting 
sweetness. Where are her parks, her boulevards, her 
art galleries, her churches and assembly halls that are 
world-famed for faultless design or grand appearance, 
and last, the public monuments to her great dead ? 
Tom Moore, when he came here years ago, found noth- 
ing in Norfolk that he thought was worth describing, 
and nothing has been erected since; he actually had to 
go into the very heart of the Dismal Swamp to find 
something to write about, and " 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 21 

My friend's remarks came to an abrupt termination 
on account of the boat making her slip, and, in his 
hurry to make the Baltimore boat, he got so far ahead 
of me that we became separated, and the conversation 
was never resumed. But although my friends were not 
with me, I could not help pondering over their remarks. 
I had been in Norfolk before, and only knew her to 
love her; but I had to admit that much of what they 
said was, unfortunately, true. My memory could not 
recall any great park or parkway within its limits; and 
as for monuments and statues, although Norfolk has 
produced many men that deserve them — where are they? 
Where is the statue to her greatest soldier, mighty 
Pickett, who lived and died within her limits, and who 
led, in July, 1863, one of the greatest charges that his- 
tory has indellibly placed upon her pages? And where 
is the towering monument that should be the most con- 
spicuous of her elevations, to commemorate the deeds of 
the men of Norfolk, who, under his command, braved 
death a hundred times as they charged into the midst of 
destruction, into the very centre of death — '^Bloody 
Angle''? And the Norfolk sailors w^ho, with Buch- 
anan, in March, 1862, on the Virginia or Merrimac, 
sent the Cumberland to the bottom of Hampton Roads, 
burned the Congress, and forced the Monitor to retreat? 
And also the heroes on Craney Island, who forced proud 
Admiral Cockburn to withdraw his British fleet in 1813, 
and thus saved the city? 

As they have not been erected, I naturally concluded 
that the citizens of Norfolk must have labored under 



22 NORFOLK ; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

the erroneous impression that their connection with' great 
achievements will save their names from '^sinking into 
oblivion." I say erroneous impression, because, in 
passing, in a passenger steamer, almost over the same 
course taken by the contending iron-clads in the cele- 
brated battle of the Roads, which caused a complete 
revolution in combative marine construction, out of over 
sixty passengers of over average intelligence, only three 
could tell the name of the commander of the ram Vir- 
ginia. 

But that Norfolk had nothing worth seeing no-argu- 
ment could force my mind to believe, so satisfied was I 
that a city situated upon a site which was purchased 
two hundred and five years back on account of the great 
advantages it possessed as a shipping point; was imme- 
diately made a trade centre, and })rotected by laws not 
enjoyed by any colony of that date; was first incor- 
porated by Royal Charter in 1736, and, although named 
a borough, enjoyed everything that appertained to the 
machinery of a city — a mayor, board of aldermen and 
police, and in 1845 was made a city in fact by the Gen- 
eral Assembly of the State of Virginia ; is situated upon 
one of the finest harbors in the world; and last and 
best of all, has been blest from the first by an indus- 
trious and intelligent population; — that population cer- 
tainly has left its impress in the form of engineering, 
landscape and architectural features worthy of more 
than passing notice. To discover these I concluded to 
make it my mission, and immediately prepared to start 
on a voyage of discovery — to penetrate and explore that 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 23 

vast tract of avenues, streets and lanes faced by stone, 
brick and iron, which lies north of the great length of 
Main street, and is as little known to the majority of 
travelers as the untrodden centre of Australia or the 
unknown depths of burning Orizaba, and if I was suc- 
cessful in finding the interesting features which I was 
quite certain existed, to write a book, in which I would 
give the traveling public the benefit of my observations, 
and make it, if possible, sufficiently interesting and 
readable to be worthy of })erusal by the resident popu- 
lation. 



CHAPTER III. 

WHICH DESCRIBES MAIN STREET— THE ROOFLESS APPEARANCE 
OF THiE HARE BUILDING AND THE MUCH-ROOFED ATLANTIC 
HOTEL— THE WHITE MARBLE COTTON EXCHANGE AND THE 
GRANITE GOVERNMENT BUILDING— THE ST. JAMES-YOUNG 
MEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION BUILDING-THE ACADEMY OF 
MUSIC— DEPOTS, ETC. 

Main street being the great retail shopping avenue of 
the (,'ity, and as it contains the most costly buildings, I 
concluded to make it the subject of my first street 
sketch, although subsequent discoveries showed me that 
there is a street in Norfolk which by far eclipses it in 
the possession of points of interest to the stranger, and 
in variety is second to none in the South. 

Main street begins at a combination of the busiest, 
cleanest, best constructed, and least obstructed by un- 
sightly sheds of any of the leading wharves of this 
active port, for I found no buildings to block the range 



24 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

of my eyes as they feasted upon tlie wealth of green 
trees and shrubbery of the opposite shore, and my im- 
mediate surroundings were sufficiently mixed to interest 
the most fastidious. 

As I faced the noble expanse of water, I found to the 
left the great shed of the Baltimore Steam Packet Com- 
pany, which, during business hours, lias a continual 
stream of glossy carriages, many lined omnibuses, heavy 
drays, trucks, express wagons, etc., entering or leaving 
its capacious doorway, which looked as if it might make 
an appropriate entrance to the Mammoth Cave of Ken- 
tucky. After a glance to the right at the heavy ships 
of the Boston line and a number of huge ocean steam 
tramps receiving cargo, I faced about, and my attention 
was immediately attracted by the grim-looking tower of 
the Virginia Compress, which showed plainly Avhat it 
was intended for, not only by the white clouds of escap- 
ing steam and the deafening noise that accompanied 
thera, but also by the many bales of cotton that would 
find their way into its somber-looking interior large 
and clumsy and leave reduced to less than half their 
former size, in order to take up less space in a ship's 
hold while in transit across Atlantic's stormy space to 
Liverpool and other European ports, or up the coast to 
New England factories, part to be shipped back in a 
short time manufactured into many different fabrics, in 
order to give the citizens of Norfolk and the cotton- 
raisers of the contiguous section the proud privilege of 
paying several times its original cost, the difference, ex- 
cept a very slight margin, finding its way into the strong 



NORFOLK ; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 25 

safes of the owners of the "foreign bottoms" which 
ni >ve it both ways and the distant manufacturers that 
weave it into cloth. That cotton factories should be 
erected here, and that they should be filled with thou- 
sands of skilled employes to weave this raw product 
into profitable fabrics, not one of the citizens of Norfolk 
will deny; but, unfortunately, she is not true to her best 
interest in this respect, for in my rambles through the 
city my ears failed to catch the cheery music that 
accompanies the rapid whirl of the spindles. 

From here onward the street is utilized for the dis- 
play of a majority of the best office, commercial and 
hotel buildings in the city; and I can say without hesi- 
tancy, after a careful study of the miles of varied 
facades which line this noble thoroughfare, that they 
will compare favorably with those of any city of its 
size on the Atlantic seaboard. 

The first building I passed that attracted my atten- 
tion is the late creation known as the 



which, with its abbreviated cornice, roofless appearance, 
but excellent display of terra-cotta, is, in many ways, 
one of the most remarkable studies in the city — remark- 
able from the fact that it is unlike any othe^ within its 
limits. The upper floors are cut up for offices, and are 
well adapted for the purpose. This is particularly ap- 
preciated by the cotton people, as quite a number are 
occupied by them. As I looked at this building, which 
forces the impression that something is lacking, and 
2 



26 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

that something the roof, vvhich appears to have departed 
with part of the cornice, my eyes wandered about the 
street, evidently for the purpose of discovering the 
missing and necessary house-covering. I did not have 
to strain my optics, for as soon as they rested on the 
building nearly opposite (just a little to the left), I 
scarcely could refrain from startling the pedestrians who 
were walking up and down the side-walk by exclaiming 
" Eureka !" for there, standing in bold relief, I found the 

ATLANTIC HOTEL, 

the greatest possible contrast to the building just 
described, for it appeared at a first glance to be all roof, 
and imagination could easily shape itself so as to believe 
that the double-decked mansard of the north-east corner 
is animate, and that its circular upper windows are two 
eyes longingly gazing at the flat and unfinished-looking 
Hare building, as if it would like to fly over and take 
position nearer the earth's surface, using the top of that 
structure for a base, and thus supplying a very apparent 
deficiency. As the admiring rustic said of the fat lady 
when he first beheld that queen of human heavy weight 
under the frail roof (or rather, weather i)rotection) 
afforded by the sweeps of a circus canvas, so everybody 
must say upon beholding the two main fronts of the 
Atlantic Hotel — " it 's a big thing!" Its front eleva- 
tions have three streets upon which to display their six 
hundred and forty feet of attractive brick, slate, iron 
and glass, for it faces two hundred and fifty feet on 
Main, two hundred and ten on Granby and one hun- 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 27 

dred aud eighty on Randolph street. The structure is 
built in what is termed the French chateau style, al- 
though I think that an American adaptation of that 
style would be the proper way of designating it. In 
France, during the many years that that nation posed 
as a kingdom or empire, this style was used for what 
its name indicates — the country palaces or castles of the 
French nobility; and during these later days of the 
French Republic, with the exception of an occasional 
fashionable village inn, surrounded by grounds which 
aiford good opportunities for landscape gardening, it is 
very seldom used only for the country houses of the 
aristocracy. In this country our practical fellow-citi- 
zens have found a way of adapting it to almost every 
use from a college building to a furniture factory. In 
making the designs for the Atlantic, however, the archi- 
tect has been particularly happy in his treatment of this 
much-abused type, for he has certainly given it the ap- 
pearance of solidity, which would have been much 
heightened if the facings had been of stone instead of 
wood painted to imitate that material. It has, besides, a 
cheerful and roomy appearance, and its many large- 
sized windows give indications of that greatest necessity 
in hotels — perfect ventilation and natural light. I am 
satisfied that a glance at this Colossus of brick aud slate, 
from that part of the Post-office side-walk which permits 
a view of the two main facades, will bring forth the 
declaration that it is an ornament as well as a landmark 
of the city. 



28 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

Opposite this mammoth liotel stands the buihling 
which contains the rooms of 

THE COTTON EXCHANGE. 

It has two more strong claims upon the visiting 
stranger for inspection. The first is, that it is the only 
marble building in the city; and the second, that it has 
the most sensational history of any within its limits, for its 
white front once graced a street in Baltimore; but it had 
to be removed to make room for the new post-office 
building in that city. As a consequence, it was sold, 
the purchaser being an enterprising Norfolk hotel pro- 
prietor, who placed the front on vessels, floated it down 
the Patapsco and Chesapeake Bay, and then by way of 
Hampton Roads and Norfolk harbor, and safely landed 
it upon a wharf near its present site. Its erection here 
has done much to improve this part of the city, for its 
white front elevation, topped by a well-designed man- 
sard roof, makes a magnificent contrast to the red glare 
of the prevailing and rather tiring bricks. 

THE GOVERNMENT BUILDING, 

in which are housed the Post-office, United States Courts 
and Custom-house, is next in line. It is a magnificent 
creation, and without question the finest and costliest 
building in the city; and, taking into consideration its 
noble, lofty portico, the faultless design of the entire 
structure and the enduring nature of the material of 
which it is built, I am satisfied I will not be contra- 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 29 

dieted wheu I declare it the best building in the State of 
Viririnia. It is a classic-looking structure of the Greek 
tvpe, built of imperishable granite. The solid stone 
steps, which are of generous width, coniraeuce at the 
street-line, and, after reaching the extreme height of the 
basement story, terminate at a broad granite platform, 
upon which stands six massive fluted columns, with 
Corinthian capitols, which support a triangular pedi- 
ment with its plain l)ut appropriate tympanum. 

Next to this heroic government erection stands the 
cheerful and hospitable-looking 

ST. JAMES HOTEL. 

This building was erected in 1879, and known as the 
Virginian. It was remodeled and one story added in 
March, 1887. A bad mistake was made in not adding 
still another, as the foundations, T am credibly in- 
formed, are strong enough to bear the additional weight. 
The popularity of the hotel would have made the room 
gained profitable, and the additional height would have 
vastly improved its general appearance. Any one view- 
ing its pressed-brick front from the opposite side-walk 
can hardly realize that it contains sixty large and ele- 
gantly-furnished rooms, besides the ground floor, that 
contains the cheerful-looking office (which appears to be 
a rendezvous for merchants and cotton buyers as«well as 
commercial travelers) and the appropriately-decorated 
dining-room, with its outlook upon busy Main street in 
front and the refreshing green that surrounds the govern- 
ment building at the side. 



30 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

Hugging the St. James, in what appears a most 
Christian-like manner, and overlooking all surround- 
ings, stands the 



This promises to be the most showy edifice in the 
city. Although it is not yet quite completed, the ex- 
terior is far enough advanced to warrant the assertion 
that Main street has received an addition of which the 
city may well be proud. Nothing appears cramped. 
The great arch which bears the legend, "Young Men's 
Christian Association,'' is a conspicuous feature of the 
front, as well as the two flanking towers — one a hanging 
oriel, giving a splendid opportunity for projecting win- 
dows; and the other a grand, massive, square, highly- 
ornamented tower, which overtops all. Everything 
about the front is rich and consistent. The harmony in 
the color of the materials employed (brick, stone and 
terra-cotta) is so thoroughly blended that it will not 
require time to tone them down, and everything about 
it shows that it is a study which combines strength, 
grace, prominence and beauty. 

Opposite this array, which stands conspicuous among 
the best of Norfolk's buildings, will be found the fol- 
lowing combination of substantial and well-designed 
commercial palaces: The stuccoed front and mansard 
elevation of the Ames & Stevens furniture building; 
next, the Lowenburg block of fine stores, well built of 
brick, trimmed with marble, the upper floors nearly all 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 31 

occupied by the legal fraternity. This is followed by 
the stalwart front of the 

ACADEMY OF MFSIC. 

Tho exterior of this building looks decidedly com- 
mercial. It is, in fact, a fine business block, contMinin^i: 
a large iHmd:)ei' of stores, and with but little to indicate 
that it is devoted to the drama. The entrance is, I am 
sorry to say, disappointing, when compared to either ex- 
terior or int(4'ior. I never was more surprised in a 
])uildintr in mv life than when I walked through the 
long vestibule and stood in one of the handsomest deco- 
rated and most impcjsing theatres in the vSouth. The 
auditorium, which has a seating capacity of nearly 
1,400, is a work of art throughout. The two circles 
are ricii in relief work; but the crowning glories of this 
amusement palace are the proscenium and the ceiling. 
The first is a scholarly blending of emblems appertain- 
ing to music and the drama, in semi-relief, entwined in 
most appropriate scrolls, making an elaborate frame for 
the boxes as well as the great curtain; the effect, which 
is very rich, is still further heightened by two- angels in 
full relief, wdiich, with easy pose, sit on the cornice of 
the top boxes. The ceiling is rich in magnificent fres- 
coes and large medallions, with the busts of dramatic 
authors and musical composers. The lack of space 
prevents a further description of this noble interior, of 
which N^'folk has a just right to be proud. 

The Queen Anne facade of the Bank of Commerce, 
closely followed by the drab stone front of the Norfolk 



32 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

National Bank, and the solid, fort-like elevation of the 
granite Marine Bank, on the corner of Bank street, 
next attracted my attention ; then the Bnrrow and Peter 
Smith bniklings centered the eyes, on acconnt of their 
conspicnons sitnation at the head of Market Sqnare. 
Diagonally across from these hist-described trade marts, 
the ten stores of the Newton bnilding make a gracefnl 
curve, and thereby place part of their substantial and 
business-looking fronts upon Market Sqnare. Next in 
h'ne I found the solid-looking creation of the 

mechanics' association, 

which not only indicates by a giant arm clutching a 
hammer, and appropriately placed in a niche, l)ut also 
by its general appearance, that the upper slory was in- 
tended as a hall for public gatiierings. From here to 
Church street both sides of Main have about the same 
appearance as that usually found on the leading busi- 
ness street of any American city of between thirty and 
fifty thousand inhabitants, the south side showing the 
best and most modern structures, particularly those near 
the corner. 

The first building of note, after crossing Church 
street, is the 

PURCELL HOUSE, 

which has an airy, pleasing front. This time-honored 
hotel has quite a history, and it is said that in its long 
career, under different names, its hospitable roof has 
given shelter to many foreign as w^ell as native celeb- 



NORFC^LK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 33 

rities, among the former the Third Napoleon and Gari- 
baldi. From here on the street throws aside the 
business-like garb of active trade and attires itself in 
the less showy garments of private life and buildings 
fashioned to enjoy it, while stately elms assist in giving 
it a more retired appearance. Nearly every house is 
substantially built of brick, with the various kinds of 
stone facings. All look comfortable, many give evi- 
dence of wealth, culture and refinement; but none so 
i-emarkably differ in design or detail as to call for special 
description except two residences. The first stands 
about midway between Church street and the depot, and 
whicli, through a combination of semi-Moorish towers, 
arches, peculiar windows, stained glass and sculptured 
embellishments, forces one to believe that it was in- 
tended for an art gallery, library or other public use. 
The other "nc^able" exception occupies space a. little 
further down on the same side. It is an old brick 
building, which looks as if it might antedate the Revo- 
lution. It has a quaint roof, pierced by dormers, which 
looks as if it might be the identical house-top that 
inspired Mansard and gave him the points for his cele- 
brated covering. Its oddity is added to by a bay win- 
dow which crosses a roadway and is supported in part 
by the brick wall of the next house. 

The street, as I have shown, commences 'midst a 
scene of active nautical life, and I found that it ends 
among scenes fully as business-like and by far more 
noisy, for it ap})ropriately stops near the 



34 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

PICTURESQUE DEPOT 

used by the Norfolk and Western and Norfolk and 
Southern railroads, with its pretty little park, as well 
as the Virginia Beach station ; in fact, it loses itself 
among a most remarkable blending of sound and scene — 
the shrill whistles of the locomotives of three railroad 
lines; the light, rattling sound of the trains of the Vir- 
ginia Beach road, as they creep across the trestle towards 
tlie ocean; the heavier, rumbling sound of the heavily- 
loaded freight and passenger trains of tlie Noi'folk and 
Western and Norfolk and Southern roads, headed by 
their locomotives, which seem to strain every energy as 
they go to and from the depot. It is indeed a most ap- 
propriate })lace for Norfolk's busiest street to find a 
terminus. 



CHAPTER IV. 

IN WHICH I WALK THROUGH NORFOLK'S MOST REMARKABLE 
STREET— STUDY ITS PECULIAR FEATURES— SAY SOMETHING 
ABOUT ODD FELLOWS' HALL— OLD ST. PAUL!S AND ITS PIC- 
TURESQUE GRAVE-YARD— THE PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, THE 
HEBREW SYNAGOGUE, THE GREAT HOSPITAL OF ST. VINCENT 
DE PAUL, AND LESNER'S GARDEN. 

Church street is, without any doubt or question, the 
most remarkable street in the city, if not in the South 
Atlantic States. There are many streets in the Southern 
seaboard cities — in fact, too many of them to even 
attempt an enumeration — that have finer and more 
costly buildings to grace their fronts, and there are sev- 



eral in this very city of Norfolk that can show a grander 
architectural display; but no street in this entire combi- 
nation of States can overshadow Church street in general 
make-up or variety ; and as variety is conceded to be 
the spice of life, Church street is full of life — all kinds 
of life. As pure, as honest life as the State of Virginia 
(so well known for the purity of her homes) has ever 
produced can be seen on Church street; and one part of 
it (fortunately a very small part), shunned by all 
respectable citizens, is the habitation of the frailest and 
worst kind of life. Anything obtainable anywhere in 
this world is supposed to have a duplicate within reach 
on Church street. If you want the oldest building in 
the city, go to Church street; if you want the newest, 
don't leave the street — you can get it: there is always 
one or more in the process of construction or just fin- 
ished. The same applies to everything else. If you 
want the latest imported liondon-made suit of gent's 
clothes, or the latest dress made by Worth of Paris, ask 
for them on Church street; you will not be disappointed, 
for the facilities of the street are too great to be baffled 
by three thousand miles of ocean, as it requires, I am 
credibly informed, only about twelve hours to import 
from Europe a garment to fit either male or female cus- 
tomer, and, to their credit, it is said that they nearly 
equal the genuine article and sell it much cheaper. If 
the contents of your pocket should be so limited as to 
require a second-hand suit. Church street is the place to 
be accommodated with one which has just left the back 
of either an honest workingman (who, through adver- 



36 NORFOLK ; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

sity, has been forced to part witli it) or the contracted 
shoulders of some crack-brained dude, who sold it in 
order to buy another that would still more imitate the 
butterfly. The same applies to everything else. It is a 
blending of everything in the shape of habitations upon 
its long and crooked length, and the most eccentric boa- 
constrictor never twisted itself into more crooks and 
turns than this remarkable thoroughfare, commencing at 
Water street and running far into the country. There 
exists a kaleidoscopic array of churches, synagogues, 
hos[)itals, grave-yards; dry goods, boot and shoe, fur- 
niture (new and second-hand) and grocery stores; meat 
markets, stables, liquor houses, bars, undertaking estab- 
lishments, human hair stores, junk stores, alligator-tooth 
jewelry establishments; and so much out of proportion 
to the size of the city as to surprise the best-traveled 
stranger. In architectural effects, as far as variety is 
concerned, the street by no means has to take a back 
position; for not only are the five great orders invoked 
and used without any regard to order, but a great many 
new types and styles have found their way into this 
happy architectural confusion. Some of them, I am 
satisfied, could not be classified even by a committee 
composed of Michael Angelo, Inigo Jones, Sir Chris- 
topher Wren and H. H. Richardson. The first build- 
ing after leaving Water street that I found of sufficient 
interest to describe is known as 



an attractive-looking structure in tl.e mediaeval English 
style, which rejoices in a grand display of great win- 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 87 

dows and pinnacles, and contains the lodge-rooms of 
the Norfolk members of the three-great-links fraternity, 
as also a well-appointed theatre, styled the Opera House. 
My next halt was in front of 



and church -yard, which combine to make the most pic- 
turesque spot in Norfolk, and in point of historical 
interest, as well as real attraction to the tourist, its great 
heart, mind and eye-centre. Its inscribed tombstones, 
stained by the many changes of weather that a century 
and a half has witnessed, and the old time-tinted walls 
of the church building, imbedded with memorial tab- 
lets, plainly show that they were placed there when Vir- 
ginia was a struggling colony, and speaks well for the 
early settlers, who made the best and most enduring 
building the one in which they worshipped God, for it 
stands to-day the only authentic artificial creation in 
Norfolk that by nearly fifty years antedates the Kevo- 
lutionary war. The church was built in 1737, the ma- 
terial is brick (burnt in England), and which, as I hav^e 
before stated, time has colored and toned to such perfec- 
tion that it commands pure religious respect in place of 
simple admiration. Dense masses of ivy cling to its 
weather-beaten walls with loving, inseparable tenacity, 
its north side being so thoroughly mantled with this 
evergreen creeper that it makes a particularly impres- 
sive picture; while its south wall gives a chapter of 
Revolutionary history in the form of an imbedded can- 
non-ball which, it is alleged, was fired into it from the 



38 NORFOLK; thp: marine metropolis. 

deck of the Liverpool, a frigate that, in common with 
the rest of the British fleet, was bombarding the city. 
Everything about the quaint old church-yard displays 
taste; the fountain, whether dry or throwing crystal 
jets to the breeze, looks as if it stands just where nature 
intended it to be ])laced ; the old tombstones, the grass, 
flow^ers, shrubbery and trees, so perfectly blended, causes 
one to wonder how a space so flat could be made so 
picturesque. 

Nearly opposite the upper end of this church-yard 
stauds the 

CENTRAL PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, 



W 



hich is a large, massive-looking edifice, constructed 
of pressed brick, trimmed with brown stone, and still 
further decorated with a vv ell-designed porch of the 
same material. It has a well-proportioned, handsomely- 
slated spire that can be seen for many miles, and enjoys 
the ])roud distinction of looking as well upon near in- 
spection as at a distance. ' 
A little above this I came to a 

HEBREW SYNAGOGUE. 

The building is of the Grecian type, and has a Corinth- 
ian porch, something unusual in a Hebrew place of 
worship, for they have supplied the United States with 
the best specimens of the Moorish and other Oriental 
styles, which naturally add much, on account of their 
being unlike any other, to the architectural attractions 
of a city. I found that the reason they made an except 



39 



tion to the rule here was because the building had been 
erected by the Methodists for their own use, and then, 
for some reason, they sold it to Norfolk's "chosen 
people." 

The next point of interest was the hospital of 



one of Norfolk\s greatest blessings — in fact, her 

GOOD SAMARITAN. 

Its heroic front of pressed brick, with immaculate mar- 
ble trimmings, its mansard story, the well-selected shrub- 
bery, noble trees and the graceful promenades that sur- 
round it, are all dedicated to the unfortunates who have 
lost God's greatest blessing — health. In its generous-sized 
wards many a fevered brow has been soothed and many 
a dying man has been reconciled to meet his Maker. I 
have heard that great Pickett, who braved the shot and 
shell of so many of the battles in which the Army of 
Northern Virginia w^as engaged, and led, on the bloodiest 
day at Gettysburg, quietly and peacefully departed this 
life within its noble interior. The building, outside of 
its history, is well worth seeing, being of excellent 
design and well built ; the grounds are not only ample, 
but also tastily arranged and well cared for. The hos- 
pital, although under the supervision of the Sisters of 
Charity (and as a consequence is a Roman Catholic insti- 
tution), limits its good work to no particular denomina- 
tion, for its sweeping arms of charity and hospitality 



40 NORFOLK; THE :\[ARINE METROPOLIS. 

are wide open to the sufferers of every creed and every 
clime. 

From here on the street makes many more curves 
before it reaches 



for which it not only acts as Church but also Main 
street. The greatest feature of this remarkable avenue, 
as well as of Huntersville, and which is destined to be- 
come one of Norfolk's great attractions, is 

lesner's garden, 

which promises to be one of the most extensive east of 
Cincinnati, and more remarkable, probably, than any in 
even the Western cities, from the fact that it combines 
the leading features of nearly all of them. It is, on a 
small scale, a zoological garden and also a flower garden. 
Art is represented by a number of iron and terr,a-cotta 
casts, some of them quite heroic, and a number of large 
halls give ample room for assemblies. The peculiar and 
permanent nature of the street- front of this attractive 
pleasure park first attracted my attention and its really 
quaint appearance further centered my gaze. It is in 
the form of a building of such large proportions that it 
overshadow^s everything in Huntersville. The first 
story is a pleasing combination of granite, marble, sand- 
stone and pressed brick. The next is of wood, pierced 
with large windows, which have every appearance of 
being put there to admit light into a public hall; and 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 41 

above that a niche, filled by a statue, gives it quite an 
ecclesiastical appearance. But the most remarkable of 
all is the tower or outlook. There was certainly con- 
siderable orio^inality used in its design, for I must cer- 
tainly admit that in all my wanderings I have never 
seen any approach to it, elevation being gained by a 
number of cottage-like structures, one fitting the roof of 
the other, the height being one hundred and ten feet. 

I walked in and found myself in a large hall, the 
centre being occupied by a permanent fountain, which, 
with its many sprays and jets of water splashing and 
trickling into its ample basin, will do a great deal, in 
connection with the three arches at the extreme end 
(which have every appearance of breezy tunnels), towards 
giving it the much-desired cool and refreshing aspect 
during hot anrj. dusty July and August. Through these 
three arches I got the first views of the beauties of the 
garden proper, and without delay I walked into it. 
Upon reaching it I fi)und first a unique terra-cotta vase, 
next a well-kept lawn. In the centre, upon a rustic 
base, stands a giant elk, with all the dignity and j)ose of 
a presiding official. This fine specimen of the deer sug- 
gested to me the name of Elk Lawn, and the magnolias 
which bordered it Magnolia Circle; a path which forms 
the interior boundary, and is ornamented by a line of 
evergreens, Evergreen Walk; and the companion walk 
on the other side. Zoo Ramble, as it passes the cages 
filled with wild animals. These names were adopted by 
the proprietor, who accompanied me in my walk over 
the three broad acres. As I looked at what has already 



42 NORFOLK ; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

been done, and observed the walks, well-arranged trees, 
well-kept lawn, pretty flower-plats, fountains, ponds 
and shady bowers, and then walked upstairs into the 
main or entrance buildiuo; and found a well-arranged 
spacious hall, particularly adapted for musical entertain- 
ments, I could not help but think that Eastern Virginia 
and North Carolina, as well as Norfolk, had been "sup- 
plied with a want^^; and when I considered its possibili- 
ties, I was satisfied that nothing stands in its way of 
becoming, not only a leading resort, but one of national 
reputation. I have seen many smaller ones North and 
West whose names are household words. As I was 
leaving, the proprietor asked me to give one item to tlie 
public. I do it cheerfully, and that is, that it is intended 
as a resort for ladies and children as well as gentlemen, 
and that no intoxicating liquids will, under any circum- 
stances, be sold or allowed on the premises. 

From here Church street still goes on, but only as an 
average regulation country road. 



CHAPTER v. 

DESCRIBES THE WATER-FROxNT AND THE TERMINAL POINTS OF A 

■ NUMBER OF GREAT RAILROAD AND, STEAM-SHIP LINES— AND 

CONCLUDES WITH WATER STREET AND ITS MANY INDUSTRIES. 

Norfolk is rich in views which combine land, water 
and moving craft, and, although she has no noted docks 
like many European cities, or projecting stone piers or 
other triumphs of marine engineering, still there is 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 43 

much to interest oue on the shipping front of this old 
port. I commenced the description of 



from the foot of Botetourt street, because here the first 
bridge crosses Paradise creek, and the two small streams 
which form it, and which are destined to become more 
conspicuous in the near future, can be seen from this 
point as far as they are navigable. Tiie view here, 
although not striking in either scenic or slipping effects, 
is very diversified and pleasing, and has every natural 
advantage for great improvement. Up stream, or rather 
streams, many fine residences and the many trees in 
the whitewashed walls of the distant cemetery; on tlic 
opposite shore, the quiet pastoral scenery surrounding 
several large estates; down stream, innumerable sloo})S 
and schooners, and the saw-mills, packing-houses and 
lumber-piles of xltlantic City, complete the picture. A 
walk of one block to York street and another to its 
foot brought me once more to water. The scene here is 
far more active and beautiful; the bridge across to 

ATLANTIC CITY, 

and at its end that thriving little suburb, with its variety 
of industries and many small stores; inland, York 
street, with its many stately dwellings; to the left, the 
park-like grounds of the West End mansions, which 
have a water-front, and their solid stone retaining walls, 
as well as a glimpse of the harbor and the church spires 
of Portsmouth. 



44 



From here I sauntered to the water terminus of Butte 
and Free Mason streets, and then down to Granby, past 
the brick walls alluded to in another chapter, to a group 
of iron-plated buildings, one of which, by a large sign, 
indicates that it belongs to the 

NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA AND NORFOLK R. R., 

and by another, that it contains some of the offices of 
that road within its iron-clad interior. This, as well 
as a number of roadways and masts of distant shipping, 
convinced me that I had reached its tidewater terminus, 
as also the Norfolk end of the 

NEWPORT NEWS AND MISSISSIPPI VALLEY R. R. 

In order to look at these great interests intelligently, 
I concuded to take the first plank walk I came to. I 
was happy in my choice, for to my right I found the 
beautiful grounds of time-honored estates, luxuriant in 
trees and grasses; v/hile to my left and front the scene 
convinced me that I had now reached the wharves 
devoted to the heavier carrying trade of this port, the 
basin, which ends at the foot of City Hall avenue, with 
a number of schooners discharging oysters, wood and 
coal, and between it and the walk a number of roads 
and car- tracks, the latter increasing to such a wonderful 
confusion as I advanced that it was surprising how the 
powerful locomotives, continually pulling the heavy 
freight cars, could possibly find those they needed. 
Thousands upon thousands of staves, which looked as if 
they might have exhausted forests, were neatly piled 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 45 

everywhere, awaiting shipment to Brazil and other 
South American nations. The plank walk abruptly 
ended at a warehouse which is now under process of 
reconstruction. 

As I observed a large number of small masts and 
heard a continual noise a4 my right, I walked that way 
and found, to my surprise, a number of 



that I never knew existed, and the little cove, formed 
by these small wharves and the large one I was on, lit- 
erally jammed with sK)ops and schooners discharging 
the delicious bivalves. Stuck away here, where few, 
unless they have direct business with them, ever see 
them (or, for that matter, ever hear of them), are a 
number of establishments belonging to one of Norfolk's 
leading industries, employing hundreds of hands. 

I kept up the wharf, and from the extreme end en- 
joyed a good view of Atlantic City, as well as the 
palatial residences of that part of the West End bor- 
dering on the water. I walked around the warehouse of 
the Newport News and Mississippi road, which occupies 
the end of this pier, and then followed do^vn the slip 
used jointly by it and the New^ York, Philadelphia and 
Norfolk road for their heavy railroad barges, and then 
went over to the substantial warehouse and wharf of the 
last-named company. Here I found a roomy landing 
and the space between it and the adjoining wharf (Bos- 
ton) literally packed with huge foreign sail-ships and 
ocean steam transports from diiferent climes, filling their 
holds with the great Southern staple — cotton. 



46 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

In my exit from this centre of miscellaneous freight 
I passed the same iron-coated buildings and then resumed 
my stroll down Granby street to Main, and down that 
thoroughfare to 

BOSTON WHARF, 

which is very generally conceded to be the busiest in 
the city, for not only do the steamers of the Merchants' 
and Miners' Transportation line discharge and receive 
their cargoes of manufactured goods and raw material 
here, but two of the busiest compresses, during the cot- 
ton season, with the army of men required to run them, 
as well as the thousands of huge, clumsy bales that 
enter their yawning mouths to be reduced to a more 
convenient size and shape; and monster sailing-ships 
and steamers, the majority booked to sail for Liverpool 
and London, storing the snowy-looking cargo into their 
pit-like holds; — all combine to make this a scene of 
business activity seldom equalled and never surpassed on 
the American continent. More cotton is handled, as 
well as shipped to domestic and foreign ports from this 
wharf than any other in the city. 

As I had seen the shed and landing of the Baltimore 
Steam Packet Company, I left here and went direct to 

WATER STREET, 

which follows most of the harbor-line, and shows suffi- 
cient variety in both buildings and the wares stored in 
them not to be in the least tiring. It is not only the 
leading street for the sale of goods of a nautical 



NORFOLK; THE ]V[ARINE METROPOLIS. 47 

nature and the storage of material consigned to foreign 
countries, but also the leading wholesale and manufac- 
turing street of the city. These varied industries are 
not mixed, but appear to be confined to districts. In 
order not to neglect any part of this most important 
artery, I walked to the water's edge, and was treated 
with a magnificent view of the 

HARBOR AND SHIPPING. 

To the right, first a fringe of masts and smoke-stacks, 
then projecting Lambert's Point; a little distance far- 
ther I could plainly see the magnificent water-way that 
leads to the roads, the bay and the ocean, the narrow but 
deep space between Lambert's Point and the opposite 
shore partially filled by a large ocean steamer which, as 
if abhorring the vacuum, concluded to fill the upper 
space with smoke and the lower with foaming water. 
I could also see reliable Cranie Island. Directly in 
front, the grand Ionic porch of the Marine Hospital 
and the surrounding park looked particularly striking; 
a little to the left I observed Portsmouth, with her 
many church spires; farther on, the Navy Yard, with a 
few specimens of our combative marine; and last, Berk- 
ley, as if thrown in to complete the scene, which, after 
enjoying for a while, I turned my back upon, in order 
to inspect Water street, which finds a beginning between 
the well-constructed iron warehouse of the 

SEABOARD RAILROAD 

and the property of the Shippers' Compress Company. 
For some distance from here the buildings are not very 
prepossessing; in fact, with just two exceptions, the 



48 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

houses of this important part of the city look very in- 
different until the lawn at the back of the post-offiee is 
reached, when there is a change for the better, for here 
coniniences the backbone of tiie city's trade, 

THE WHOLESALE BUSINESS. 

Well-known firms I found evejywhere, and at 

COMiMEKCE STREET, 

which is also filled with solid bi'ick structures of lending 
wholesale and commission houses, it can fairly be said 
that the very heart of the city's lieaviest business is 
reached. At 

ROANOKE AVENUE AND SQI^ARE, 

which is another hive of wholesale business establish- 
ments and equally solid commission houses, I was 
attracted by a slip which was packed with the favorite 
conveyances of tide-water truckers, schooners and 
sloops. They formed such a busy and unusual picture 
that I could not resist the temptation of becoming a 
closer observer; so walked to them. 

After retracing my steps to Water street, I continued 
down that miscellaneous avenue, and after crossing 
Market Square I found a complete change. The whole- 
sale feature appeared to have dropped out of the street 
and been replaced by small stores, wdiich in turn give 
way to manufacturing establishments on one side and on 
the other the large storage warehouses, wharves and 



NORFOLK; THE MxVRINE METROPOLIS. 49 

sheds of the great steam-ship lines that receive and dis- 
charge passengers and freight at this port. When I 
reached Tayh)r street 

TWO LARGE WAREHOUSES 

claimed my attention on account of their solid appear- 
ance and size; they are of the modern pattern, with 
large arched doorways, and look the very embodiment 
of solidity. One is occupied by the Merchants' and 
Farmers' Pea-nut Company, and the other, which covers 
an entire city square, and is the largest brick building 
in tide-water Virginia, is occupied by the Norfolk Stor- 
age Warehouse, the largest pea-nut concern in the world. 
On the opposite side of the street I observed a number 
of establishments which, in a marine town, are veritable 

MARINE MUSEUMS, 

junk stores. In passing one of these I found in front 
of it, used as a sign, the safe of the unfortunate Huron ; 
it was utilized as a pedestal, for upon it stood the figure- 
head of a British bark that went down in the treacher- 
ous waters which lash the coast near Cape Henry. 
After inspecting these store-houses of faded glories for 
a few moments, I walked once more to the water-side, 
and found myself in front of the six hundred feet of 
Water street owned by the 

OLD DOMINION STEAM-SHIP COMPANY. 

Here was a continuous line of drays pouring out of the 
wide-open gateways, loaded with every imaginable kind 
3 



50 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

of manufactured goods, and an equally large number 
driving in with cotton just picked from fertile Southern 
fields and pea-nuts from the adjacent counties, as well as 
all kinds of passenger vehicles, from the (jonventional 
hack to the fashionable barouche, filled with expectant 
friends — some ready to greet returned relatives, who had 
been far away on pleasure tours; others, to welcome to 
our hospitable shores industrious immigrants. I knevv^ 
that this was one of the greatest of the coast lines, and 
realized that Norfolk was probably its greatest distribut- 
ing centre, and that here are landings for its steam-boats 
that displace the waters of North Carolina's sounds and 
rivers as well as those of Virginia; but with all 
this knowledge I had a very poor conceptioi] of the 
amount of wharf- space and ground occupied by these 
extensive carriers and their perfect facilities for hand- 
ling, storing, loading and unloading the great quantity 
of freight consigned to them. When I walked into the 
gateway I found myself in a .well-paved plaza; I 
crossed it and looked at the two great piers and their 
capacious slips, and soon concluded that there was no 
better place to study the shipping interests of this port 
than on the magnificent property of this transportation 
line. I first looked at the many boats tied to the vvharf- 
fi'onts. The "Accomack" was discharging pea-nuts 
and cotton raised in the valley of the Nansemond river, 
and behind her the dainty but fast "Luray" was hos- 
pitably receiving passengers and storing freight for 
Hampton and Newport News; while the '^Northamp- 
ton" appeared the very picture of impatience as she 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 51 

headed for her landing in order to contribute her cargo, 
gathered on the eastern shore of Virginia and Maryland. 
At another wharf I found the reliable ^^ Pamlico/' 
which has made so many successful pilgrimages through 
the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal and the great 
sound after which she is named. 
I next stepped into the 

MONSTER WAREHOUSES, ^ 

filled with a literal wilderness of freight, drawn as if by 
a magnet to this centre from every corner of the globe. 
Huge blocks of mottled stone from the rugged mount- 
ains of Tennessee, statuary marble from sunny Italy, 
oranges from the groves . of Florida, rice from the 
marshes of South Carolina, iron ore from New River 
(Virginia), portable and stationary engines from the 
machine-shops of New York, pianos from Boston, plate- 
o-lass from Paris, lime from London, tons of coffee from 
Brazil, and nearly as much tea from China; within a 
few feet of the last a lot of wild canvas- back ducks, 
who had made their last flight over Currituck Sound; 
and fish from near the mouth of the Chowan and 
Roanoke rivers. I did not intend to enumerate, for to 
describe the great variety of articles that I observed in 
these warehouses would require pages. My object for 
giving these few and those following is to show how 
well these giant freight receptacles and the wharves and 
shipping will repay a visit; what food they furnish for 
a studious mind; how they show what a prominent part 
tjie leading transportation lines hold in our economy by 



52 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

furnishing cheap, quick and safe transit to both raw 
material and manufactured fabrics; for here I continually 
found manufactured articles consigned to a certain phice 
hundreds of miles away, and near tiiem some of the 
raw material of which they were made, from the same 
locality, awaiting shipment to the same manufacturers, 
notably the following: Hides from Virginia marked to 
the Bay State, and shoes from Lynn for various parts 
of the Old Dominion; cotton from every Southern 
commonwealth tagged to the metropolis of New Eng- 
land, and huge boxes of calicoes, muslins and lawns 
from the looms of Massachusetts consigned to every one 
of the same States; marble from Tennessee for Boston, 
and soda-water fountains ipade at the Hub legibly 
directed to a number of mountain towns of western 
Tennessee. 

The depth of water at the wharves is, fortunately, 
sufficient to allow any of the company's ships to come 
and go with full cargoes, from the smallest, the " Break- 
water," of one thousand tons burden, to the superb and 
powerful last addition, the '^Sennaca,'' which registers 
three thousand tons. 

Opposite the front of the Old Dominion property are 
massed a number of foundries, machine-shops, ship 
smithies, and other metal works. I continued on past a 
marine railway and a ship-joiner's yard, and then found 
myself in front of 

THE CLYDE LINE. 

This well-known and far-reaching Philadelphia steam 
navigation company has here three piers, six slips and 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 53 

three wharf-fronts to accommodate its extensive busi- 
ness, and seven of its best boats, I believe, are reqnired 
to carry the freight of its patrons, in and about Norfolk. 
From here Water street is bordered by a number of 
well-known iron works on the land side and sheds and 
warehouses on the water to its end at the well-improved 
estate of the 

NORFOLK AND AVESTERN RAILROAD, 

which, judging from what I saw, I should say is the 
largest property-owner in Norfolk; neither has any 
other (Corporation or individual contributed as much to 
landscape features and the improvement and beautify- 
ing of the city. Their w^ell-constructed wharves and 
large brick warehouses, with a range of neat gas-lamps, 
have an air of solid business. The huge grain elevator, 
with its many pockets and complicated machinery, fill- 
ing the hold of a Spanish steamer, is of as great interest 
upon close observation as its outlines are at a distance. 
The granite and iron bridge across the South-east 
Branch is the finest structure of the kind in or near 
Norfolk. The elevated roads, with heavily-loaded cars 
dumping coal into many bins, the silvery-looking net- 
work of bright steel rails, the substantial round-house, 
the handsome passenger depot and park, all combine, 
with the great foreign ships, steam--boats and coal-tugs, 
to make this a fit terminus for the shipping street of 
Virginia's great seaport. 



54 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 



CHAPTER Vr. 

WHICH TREATS OF GRANBY STREET— THE ALBEMARLE— VIRGINIA 
CLUB — CHEERLESS WALLS — GRANBY STREET METHODIST 
CHURCH— NORFOLK'S GREAT AND ONLY ART GALLERY— THE 
CITY HALL— CITY HALL AVENUE AND BANK STREET. 

As Granby street can fairly be called Norfolk's street 
of great expectations (for a large number of her citizens 
believe that it v/ill ultimately become the leading retail 
and fashionable shopping street of the city), I concluded 
to make it, in conjunction with a few others, the subject 
of a chapter. 

This street, like many others in this city, on account 
of a grievous oversight or lack of judgment of her 
founders, abruptly ends at Main street instead of seek- 
ing the water-front for its southern terminus. The 
first block, on both sides, after leaving Main street, 
ranks with Norfolk's very best business houses. The 
west side is almost entirely occupied by one of the fronts, 
which includes the main entrance, office, spacious read- 
ing-room, billiard hall, barber shop, etc., of the Atlantic 
Hotel; while the other side is composed of a number of 
substantial store-houses, which terminate with what can 
justly be called the finest business structure in the city. 
The building, I regret to state, is not large^ and is 
known as 

THE ALBEMARLE. 

The upper floors are utilized as an apartment house, and 
the rooms en suite contain every convenience known to 
the modern constructor, decorator and plumber, while 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 00 

the lower Hoor is occupied by a crockery establishment. 
It is very generally conceded as being- the handsomest 
store in tide-water Virginia; but its fronts are its chief 
attraction, for riowhere have I seen terra-cotta used to 
bettei' advantage, or more harmoniously blended with 
pressed l)rick, iron and colored glass. It looks as if its 
designer intended to make the lower floor a business 
parlor and the upper into apartments to suit even tlie 
fastidious taste of a French tourist. Its elaborate 
exterior and well-appointed interior bear witness to the 
fact that he succeeded. 

Opposite this handsome structure stands the sub- 
stantial building occupied by the 

VIRGINIA CLUB. 

I have seen many costlier, more pretentious and state- 
lier club-houses, but I have never seen one that could 
better adapt itself to the seasons, for its well-lighted, 
handsome parlors look warmer in winter than most 
others, and no apartments look cooler or more breezy in 
summer. The members of the club are gentlemen who 
have had the good setise to correct some of the errors 
into which other clubs have unwittingly fallen, as it .is 
less exclusive to strangers whose literary or social 
merits are acknowledged than the celeljrated Somersett 
of Boston or Westmoreland of Richmond ; and an 
honest Virginia hospitality is dispensed which is ex- 
ceedingly refreshing in an age when people are too prone 
to gauge the man by the amount of ca})ital he commands. 



56 



After crossiDg a narrow street, on the same side, I 
found myself in front of 



evidently helono^ing to a building period which, as far 
as Norfolk is concerned, has })assed into history. It is 
adorned by one of the best Ionic porches I have ever 
seen, the columns resting upon a solid paneled stone 
platform. Without doubt the well-kept green lawn 
and. modest fountain in front of this building do much 
to give it its dignified appearance; yet I candidly be- 
lieve that the general harmony displayed in the embel- 
lishment of cornice, railings and even chimneys make it 
an architectural example well worthy of study by our 
home-builders of the present period. 

A few ste})s from this ante-heUum palace brought me 
to where, in rapid succession, places of interest are 
passed by the pedestrian. The first of these, I am 
sorry to say, is anything but a pleasing rest for the eye; 
it is made up of two of the 

MOST SELFISH-LOOKING WALLS 

that it has ever been my province to behold. They are 
opposite each other, and arc built of brick and white- 
washed. One of them, I judge, has a frontage on this, 
one of the most prominent of Norfolk's streets, of about 
thi-ee hundred feet, and the other fully, if not over, four 
hundred and fifty; and, unfortunately for the city's ap- 
pearance, they enclose the finest grounds within its 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 57 

limits. These walls have often been the cause of very 
ludicrous blunders, and furnish no little food for the 
practical joker. It is said that an observing tourist, 
having been informed that Norfolk had two interesting 
cemeteries, and that they were enclosed in whitewashed 
brick walls, concluded to take a street-car ride, in order 
to get a good idea of the city and its leading streets, and 
then visit them; but when he got to these rather un- 
natural enclosures (for residences) he stopped the car, 
alighted, and walked towards the nearest gate, evidently 
thinking that he had reached the cemeteries, and that it 
would suit his convenience to take them in first. He 
found that he was mistaken when he looked throup-h the 
gateway and beheld the magnificent, park-like grounds 
which surround the neat, \vell-cared-for and cheerful- 
looking residences. 

I am satisfied that some of my readers will consider 
it wrong for me to write as I have of these walls, because 
they are private property ; but I am confident that when 
they reflect, and realize that they are forced upon the 
public gaze, and that this book is intended as a faithful 
gazetteer, to point out disadvantages as well as advan- 
tages and the ridiculous as well as the sublime, they will 
say that I was compelled to notice them. Some, I fear, 
may even go further, and think that I was guided by 
hostile feelings towards the owners; if they do, they are 
certainly mistaken, for I can conscientiously state that 
I am not personally acquainted with either, not even 
knowing their names. I have no doubt they are most 
excellent citizens and have the city's best interests at 



58 



heart, for the grounds plainly show that they are the 
fortunate possessors of both taste and refinement; but I 
candidly affirm that if they will remove these prison-like 
walls and replace them with a neat iron railing they 
will receive the grateful thanks of their fellow-citizens 
and add much towards beautifying their city. 

This is the only part of my manuscript that I per- 
mitted any one to look at, for my rule in writing has 
always been to take no advice or suggestions from any 
one; but for fear that I might offend private individuals 
who had done me no harm, I read it to two gentlemen 
(one of them being one of Norfolk's best-known jour- 
nalists) and asked them if they considered it in any way 
objectionable. They both agreed that there was no 
ground for offense, and further assured me that they also 
had been surprised that the owners permitted them to 
disfigure their magnificent grounds. 

I had to walk only a few steps further on to find the 
street once again redeemed, for, commencing at the end 
of one and opposite the other of these gloomy walls, I 
found a number of 

OI.D-SCHOOL SOUTHERN MANSIONS, 

which follow each other in rapid succession. They 
make a most refreshing contrast to the cold and cheerless 
places I had just passed. The side-walks are skirted 
with trees; the front yards, although not so spacious, 
are ample, and (best of all) can be seen and gladden the 
eye with their green carpets; the buildings are all of 
brick, and are large and roomy. They all difier ma- 



NOEFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 59 

terially, though they plainly show that they were con- 
structed about the same time. Every one of them has 
an air of comfort. Wide stone steps lead up to hos- 
pitable-looking doorways. All, with one exception, 
have porticoes which show that the Virginian of old 
not only studied the classics, but also made his knowl- 
edge useful, for the first has Ionic columns, the second 
Doric, and the third Ionic; then follows the exception, 
the one not supplied with any portico. It appears to be 
older than the others, for it belongs to the Colonial 
period, when white marble panels, with sculptured gar- 
lands and protruding heads, cut out of the same ma- 
terial, were considered the grandest effects for exterior 
decorations. Opposite these, stands another of these 
survivors of a past age. A handsome porch with Co- 
rinthian columns is the leading feature about the build- 
ing, and two quaint and curious-looking brick erections 
at each limit of the front grounds give it quite a feudal 
appearance. 

On the next corner, after crossing the street named in 
honor of our first President, I had an opportunitv of 
looking at the 

NORFOLK COLLEGE FOR YOUNG LADIES. 

The appearance of the Gran by street front is solid, spa- 
cious and neat, but any one who has heard that it has 
accommodations for over three hundred pupils, and that 
light is admitted by one hundred and thirty-six large 
windows, and that it has twenty-seven class and recita- 
tion rooms, outside of those used as dormitories, is very 



60 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

prone to be disappointed by its appearance; but all 
doubt will be dispelled when he walks up Washington 
street and looks at the spacious annex. The front is 
composed of two lofty stories, built of brick, and a well- 
designed mansard, making in all three stories. The 
location is elegant for the purpose, being healthy and 
accessible; and best of all, it has a reputation for effi- 
ciency and for imparting a thorough education second 
to none in the country. 

The large front yard (of No. 129), in which a mag- 
nificent magnolia, bits of rush, and broad, velvety 
lawns represent nature, while a large, life-like bronze 
mastiif and neat fountain of the same material represent 
art, next attracted my attention, and caused me to make 
a mental calculation as to how many citizens (compelled 
to stay in the city during the summer months) blessed 
the proprietor as they looked over the low, unobstruct- 
ing iron railing and feasted their eyes upon the refresh- 
ino^ green. 

A few steps brought me to the corner of Free Mason 
and 

THE GRANBY STREET METHODIST CPIURCH. 

It has a fine front, consisting of four magnificent Ionic 
columns, which support a well-proportioned and well- 
designed entabliture. So far so good, if the architect 
would only have stopped there; but, unfortunately, he 
did not, for from the roof springs what was evidently 
intended for a church steeple, which looks very much 
as if the designer intended to cap the building with a 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 61 

cut between a Moorish tower and a bee-hive, but just 
before its completion changed his mind and concluded 
to gain elevation by adding a shingled pinnacle. With 
all candor I must admit that distance lends beauty to 
this colossal pile of framed lumber and swamp shingles, 
and it does not look quite as awkward and displeasing 
to the spectator who is far enough away not to distin- 
guish the material employed in its construction. The 
interior, I am glad to say, makes up to some extent for 
its faulty steeple; the ceiling of the auditorium is elab- 
orate and in good taste; stained glass of excellent design 
fill the windows, and the acoustics are perfect. 

From here I continued on to Central Market, a neat 
iron-plated building, where the majority of the well-to- 
do inhabitants of the West End look for their supply 
of meat, fish and vegetables. From the side-walk in 
front of this, I stood for a few moments to admire 

Norfolk's great, ever-changing art gallery, 

which occupies a front, I should judge, of a little over 
one hundred and fifty feet on Butte street, about the 
same on Charlotte and about eighty on Gran by. Nearly 
every circus in the United States and nearly every 
itinerant theatrical company, as well as lecturers on 
phrenology, psychology, botany, etc., patent medicine 
houses, sewing machine, piano and other manufac- 
tories, spend incredibly large sums of money to keep 
up this grand picture gallery. Here you can see, 
one day, a train dashing along at night, a man tied 
to the track, and a young woman, with hair as red 



62 NORFOLK; thp: marine metropolis. 

and conspicuous as the rays of the locomotive's 
head-light, releasing him just as the engine-wheels 
are about to dissect him ! Next week it is replaced 
by a steam-boat explosion, with a hero and heroine 
going up so high that it takes them a week to 
come down, and then not of their own accord, for they 
are pulled dowi], ruthlessly pulled down by the sticky 
hands of an unromantic bill-poster, so that their place 
might be taken by a critical-looking old gentleman, who 
fondly looks at a bottle of whisky of a certain brand, 
or the benevolent-looking phiz of a gentleman who is 
about to deliver a lecture on the evils of intemperance. 

My reason for thus describing the bill-boards which 
face three of Norfolk's best streets is to call the attention 
of the good citizens to the fact that this is the nearest 
approach to a public art gallery that the city has, and 
with the hope that they will profit by it, and that a 
number of its most cultured and weaJthy citizens will 
form themselves into a society for the purpose of secur- 
ing this or some other conspicuous site for the erection 
of a much-needed gallery for the display of the finer 
arts, so that Norfolk's rising generation will have some- 
thing else to draw artistic inspiration from besides the 
daubs representing cut-throats, Indians and jig-dancers. 
I respectfully submit this, as it would do incalculable 
good. 

As these boards are at the end of the street, I retraced 
my steps to 



63 



which enjoys the distinction of being the widest in the 
city, and citizens point to it with pride as a street that, 
throngh the agency of enterprise and hard work, has 
been reclaimed from one of the tidal streams which are 
such a prominent feature in the geography of this well- 
watered city; and it is said that at the extreme inland 
point of this avenue a man was drowned only a few 
years back. After niore buildings are placed upon its 
front it promises to be quite a picturesque street, for at 
one end, in a well-constructed basin, considerable of the 
small craft, particularly oyster schooners and sloops, 
which are owned or seek trade at this port, relieve the 
monotony by their graceful models and tapering masts; 
while at the other, towering above all surroundings, 
stands the 

CITY HALL, 

which is the second finest building in the city. Its 
magnificent row of gigantic Doric columns, springing to 
a great height from a base reached by a number of 
broad stone steps, and supporting a well-proportioned 
pediment, looks exceedingly well, and from the centre 
of the roof eighteen Doric columns support a majestic 
dome, which does more to give Norfolk the appearance 
of a city, from any point of view, than any other build- 
ing within its limits. It makes no great display of 
outside ornaments, but what it lacks in them it makes 
up in the solidity and quiet dignity of its appearance. 



64 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

Two courts meet in this plain but artistic edifice, which 
is surrounded by 

THE ONLY PUBLIC PARK 

or square that the city, as yet, has improved. It is a 
pretty lawn ornamented with a large-sized fountain. 
From here I extended rt] y walk to 

BANK STREET. 

The lower part contains a number of well-stocked retail 
stores, while the n[)})er is lined with substantial dwell- 
ings, the majority of which, I am satisfied, will, before 
long, have to come down to make w^ay for business 
structures. 

There is one building on this street (No. 5), now in 
process of construction, which promises to be one of the 
most remarkable business edifices south of the Potomac ; 
and when it is taken into consideration that it has a 
front of only eighteen feet and a depth of twenty-two 
feet, and that it is destined to become a wholesale and 
retail house and to contain the offices and the room for a 
manufacturing establishment, I know the reader will 
agree with me in calling it a veritable cu-riosity. As 
soon as it gained sufficient height to tower far above its 
neighbors, a great deal of concern was manifested by 
the passers-by, and many were the ideas expressed rela- 
tive to its use. Some evidently thought that it owed its 
erection to a religious society who wanted to give an 
illustration of the Tower of Babel; others, that some 
antiquarian had conciluded to present to Norfolk an 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 65 

exact copy of the Alexandrian Pharos; not a few 
thought that the government was putting up a combined 
light-house and signal station ; while a shot-tower was 
the conjecture of some. One day, as I was conversing 
with the proprietor, he sent for the architect's drawing 
of the front elevation. The scale plainly indicated that 
it would overshadow all its surroundings; and, taking 
into consideration the adv^erse circumstances which sur- 
rounded the designer, it is a remarkably effective front. 
The owner wanted room ; the architect realized that the 
only way to get it was by digging down towards the 
empire presided over by the Tycoon or by climbing up 
to the clouds. He preferred the latter. The next ques- 
tion, evidently, to present itself was how to keep his 
eighteen feet front, twenty-two feet depth and over 
ninety feet elevation from assuming the shape of a Glas- 
gow chimney or an enclosed pile-driver. That he suc- 
ceeded is certainly very gratifying, for the front is bold, 
original and even dignified. It is a happy blending of 
different styles adapted under most trying circumstances. 
There is evidence that light, as well as display, was 
worked for, for from the ground-floor up to the two 
Moorish windows, directly under the well-designed 
pediment, it promises to be a massing of neat and 
highly ornamental iron columns and French plate and 
cathedral stained glass. 



66 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 



CHAPTER VII. 

IN WHICH I WALK THROUGH FREE MASON STREET — LOOK AT 
•AND INTO CHRIST CHURCH— THE BAPTIST— MASONIC HALL- 
THEN SAUNTER THR(JUGH NORFOLK'S FASHIONABLE DISTRICT, 
THE WEST END. 

FKEK MASON STREET 

has always been considered Noi'folk's centre of fashion 
and ideal place of residence; and although powerfnl 
rivals have been developed to shaie her social suprem- 
acy, particidarly West Bntte, York and other streets, 
which, with their palatial residences, assist to make up 
the fashionable West End, and Holt and East Main 
streets af>d Brambleton in the east, all of which contain 
the homes of some of Norfolk's most fashionable and 
illustrious residents, still, after careful resean^h, I nuist 
say that, although the homes of the noted and wealthy 
inhabitants of Norfolk are pretty thoroughly scattered, 
many on streets not mentioned in this chapter, that if 
any street deserves the definite article as to being the 
most fashionable and containing the handsomest resi- 
dences and other structures not erected for business pur- 
poses, that street is Free Mason. This fashionable 
causeway finds a very modest beginning at a very busy 
part of Church street; and on the first block, although 
the buildings are good and comfortable, I found uone of 
suflficiently striking appearance or public interest to 
require description ; but not so with the following, for 
on the first corner (north-west) stands 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 67 

CHRIST CHURCH. 

There is no biiildiDg in Norfolk iu which the exterior 
and interior are in stronger contrast than iu this, aud 
no structure more fully proves the old saying that ''there 
is but one step from the sublime to the ridiculous," but 
in this case the seuse is reversed : the outside is ridicu- 
lous — the inside is sublime. There are only two things 
about the exterior of this edifice that are well designed — 
the large, well-shaped cathedral windows and the elabo- 
rate iron fence which encloses the grounds. As for the 
building, it belongs, strictly speaking, to the age of 
plaster, its stuccoed surface being laid off in sipiares, 
evidently for the purpose of making the near-sighted be- 
lieve it is stone. From the pediment springs what looks 
like a hnge dry-goods box sawed to fit tiie pitch of the 
roof; then another dry-goods box, with a lonesome-look- 
ing clock in it, which has but one dial, and that exposed 
only to Free Masosi street, as if time was useless to the 
rest of the community; then a circular tower, and ab6ve 
that a shingled pinnacle. The man who stands in front 
of this building and concludes to walk inside will be 
well repaid, and if he is not astonished at the magnifi- 
cent interior, after viewing the outside, it will be remark- 
able. Everything about it has a pure and sacred tone; 
the light is dim and (in a religious sense) perfect, and is 
admitted by large windows filled with magnificently- 
executed cathedral stained glass; the ceiling is hand- 
somely frescoed, and the reredos, its crowning glory, is a 
most effective study. 



68 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

A walk of oue block more brought me to the 

FREE MASON STREET BAPTIST CHURCH, 

which, in my opinion, is the most thorough and best 
ecclesiastical architectural study in the city or (as far as 
I have seen) in the State. It is, however, as ridiculous 
in material as it is grand in design. It has that dignity 
and thorough religious look which accompanies the 
early English Gothic, and its massive, square-pinnacled 
tower and side elevations, so well conforming with but- 
tresses and pinnacles, would easily be taken for some 
English parish church, created in the seventeenth cen- 
tury, if it were not for the fact that slight differences in 
the color of the stucco and a few cracks in the same 
coating show that the building is not stone, but brick 
plastered to imitate that material. If it was built of 
stone, which the design naturally calls for, it would 
stand without an equal in either of the Virginias or 
Carolinas. As it is, it will well repay a visit. 

At the next street crossing I found that one corner 
was occupied by the 

MASONIC TEMPLE, 

an edifice by far more conspicuous on account of cost, 
size and elevation than architectural merit. It is un- 
questionably a solid building, and without a doubt well 
constructed ; its pressed-brick front looks very smooth 
and very red; but I venture to say that if a stranger 
were informed that Norfolk was the fortunate possessor 
of a fine watch or cigar factory, and was sent out on a 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 69 

voyage of discovery to find it, the very moment his eyes 
would rest upon this huge 'pile of brick he would ex- 
claim, "I have found it!'^ for it certainly looks a great 
deal more like some of the new model factories, where 
little or very light machinery is used, than an ideal 
tetnple. Yes, there was honest and neat work done 
when the building was constructed, but its appearance 
is decidedly too commercial for a temple in which are 
held the secrets of centuries and mysteries unfathomable. 
On the corner of Gran by street I observed a large 
mansion with a high outlook, which, in connection with 
the Granby street church, makes this part of the street 
look quite prominent. After leaving here I passed 



a most excellent institution. The building is of brick 
and terra-cotta, partially covered with ivy, and looks 
well. 

At Bush street Free Mason enters and forms a part 
of the 

ARISTOCRATIC WEST END, 

where it, as well as the rest of this centre of wealth and 
fashion, presents a grand array of domestic architecture. 
Fine buildings and well-cared-for grounds follow each 
other in such rapitl succession that attention is called 
only to the most striking and best specimens. Even 
this, I fear, will be considered 

DRY READING, 

but 1 deem it necessary, under the circumstances, to 
enumerate in order to do justice to Norfolk and to show 



70 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

the studious stranger, in quest of information, that this 
part of the city is well worth visiting. Any one not 
fc/ncl of reading the purely descriptive, I can assure, 
although I've not had the advice of counsel on the sub- 
ject, that there is nothing in the statute books of the 
State of Virginia to show that their skipping over to 
the next chapter would be considered a breach of the 
peace or any other kind of misdemeanor. The system 
I have adopted is to give the numbers, where I could 
see them, and where I could not, to describe their loca- 
tion as plainly as possible. 

The building material employed is, unfortunately, 
very generally limited to brick with terra-cotta trim- 
mings in the better class and wood in the poorer class, a 
stone front being a rare exception. On account of the 
many styles employed, and the lovely grounds which 
surround many of these dwellings, I found that this dis- 
trict, fortunately, lacks that which ruins many more 
pretentious residence sections in much larger cities — 
monotony. 

Free Mason street does not go into this favored sec- 
tion with much architectural flourish, but gradually gets 
more pretentious — in fact, changes from extremely- 
cramped old age to a later period, and finally to the 
present day. One of the boundary corners furnishes a 
site for an okl wooden colonial-roofed building which 
looks as if it might have been the headquarters of any 
number of Revolutionary heroes, and the opposite corner 
has a row of substantial-looking bricks, which makes a 
fair attempt, through the agency of a mantle of plaster, 
to look like stone. 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 71 

Nos. 97 and 99 are handsome buildings, their fronts 
neatly relieved by terracotta, bay windows, dormers, 
and mansard roofs. Xo. Gl is of brick, of the old Eng- 
lish pattern, ivy-clad, with high stoop and Doimc porcii, 
and would be a jnagnificent companion to those on the 
corner of Bank street. 

On the north-west corner of Duke and Free Mason 
stands a large Italian-looking structure with an abund- 
ance of balconies and lofty outlooks. The yard is 
nicely laid out and is a receptacle for rare plants. No. 
72 is a pleasing structui-e, bordering on the Queen Anne 
style, and a pretty yard shows that the proprietor's taste 
runs towards nature as well as art. No. 70, now in 
process of construction, promises to be, when completed, 
the handsomest residence in the city; it is to be entirely 
of Seneca sandstone, relieved by polished granite. Lots 
48 and 50 are occupied by a stately mansion three 
stories in height, with a magnificent Ionic porch; a 
pretty fountain and urn, occupying each a grass plat, 
add much to its appearance. 

The block of buildings, three stories high, from 26 to 
.'36 inclusive, are particularly noticeable, as they are un- 
like any other on the street. 

Oil the north-west corner of Botetourt, I found 

THE MOST PICTURESQUE RESIDENCE 

in the city. The entrance is an arch covered with ivy 
and the great bay window in front is overgrown with 
the same evergreen, neatly trimmed so as not to interfere 
with the light. Its picturesque broken French roof. 



72 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

pierced with many well-designed dormers; its magnifi- 
cent grounds, which run to the water's edge, filled with 
flowers and trees in which the cedar and magnolia blend 
their branches, must be seen to be appreciated. Free 
Mason street most appropriately ends here at a stone 
retaining wall, lashed by the waters of the harbor. 
From here I strolled lo 

WESr BUTTE STREET. 

This beautiful avenue, like Free Mason, commences at 
the water's edge. The first building is a handsome new 
structure, while on the opposite side is a very solid- 
looking one of the old school, surrounded with ample 
grounds, shaded with different kinds of large trees and 
further adorned with urns, lions, and the huge bones of 
a whale which make an archway for a boat-landing. 

The south-west corner of Botetourt is particularly 
noticeable. The building is adorned with a pretty porch 
with Corinthian columns, but its main attraction is the 
grounds, which contain handsome gold-gilt urns with 
growing plants, a fountain of unique design, and sur- 
rounded by a neat iron railing with gilded tips. This 
lot, though small, ranks among the most attractive in 
the city. The grounds which surround No. 35 are also 
relieved by a fountain and handsome urns. No. 37 is a 
new pressed brick with spotless marble trimmings. 

On the corner of Dun more street I observed a block 
of buildings in process of construction which promises 
to rank among the best. 



NORFOLK ; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 73 

On the square bounded by Butte, York, Dunmore 
and Duke streets stands just one house. It has a com- 
manding appearance, being tall and stately, has a well- 
filled conservatory, and is probably the largest residence 
in the city. 

Nos. 81, 83, 84 and 88 are good specimens of com- 
fortable modern homes, and do much towards giving 
the street its fine appearance. No. 108 is a cosy new 
structure, and the grounds on the south-west corner of 
Duke are very attractive. The building sufficiently 
resembles the one described on Botetourt to cause any 
one to believe that they were both modeled in the same 
"form." The tips of the neat enclosure are also gilt, 
and there are lovely urns, while a large, handsome 
fountain, but of different design, throws its cooling 
sprays into a basin surrounded by small urns. 

Diagonally across from here I noticed a substantial 
block of four pressed-brick marble-trimmed buildings, 
the white marble steps which lead to the different en- 
trances faced with the same material and stained glass. 

On the north-^west corner of Bush street is a building 
(now receiving its finishing touches) which is admired 
by all who pass it. In its construction a good plan has 
been well executed, and stone, terra-cotta and black 
cement have been harmoniously blended. 

One block up Bush and I found myself on 

YORK STREET. 

No. 150, on this street, is a neat brick building, with 
windows which contain much stained glass, and has a 
4 



74 NORFOLK; THE oSEARINE METROPOLIS. 

mansard roof composect'bf tiles and slate. The bnild- 
ing which stands on lot 116 is not remarkable itself, 
but so much taste is displayed on grounds which are 
arranged so as to allow many pretty glimpses that I 
could not help mentioning it. Art and assisted nature 
have certainly done well here. 

The large block between Yarmouth and Dunmore 
streets is occupied by eight Avell-designed separate build- 
ings, each differing, and standing a short distance back 
from the street-line. Tlie intervening spaces permit of 
small grass plots, which are well taken advantage of. 

No. 18, the last residence on the north, is an elegant 
new mansion. Its mansard, pierced by many windows, 
was well planned, and evidently, in part, to insure the 
best water and city views that unfold themselves here. 

The south side of the street ends with a pretty little 
private park, well laid out. The proprietor evidently 
belongs to the unselfish class who believe in beautifying 
the city in such a way that the public can enjoy the 
green grass, flowers and trees on his estate as well as 
himself, for a very low fence is the only thing that in- 
tervenes between the pedestrian on the city's side- walk 
and this property. 

The water vista from this point, although not by any 
means the best in the city, being somewhat blocked by 
Atlantic City on one side and part of the West End on 
the other, permits a good view of a very interesting 
part of the harbor, which carries upon its glistening 
waters everything that can float, from a fleet, dainty 
yacht to a slow, lumbering scow; and from a steam 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 75 

war-ship that, with thundering volleys, announces its 
arrival, to the screaming tugs, which dash about in 
every direction. These, with the tall spires of the 
Portsmouth Memorial and Catholic churches, which can 
be seen at a distance, and Atlantic City, which is just 
across the bridge at the very foot of the street, as well 
as the noble estates, with their magnificent broad, shaded 
and grass-carpeted grounds, held back by solid stone 
walls from the grasping waters, make a fit ending to 
Norfolk's prettiest and wealthiest district — the West 
End. 



CHAPTER yill. 

WHICH IS RATHER SOLEMN — FOR IT DESCRIBES CUMBERLAND 
STREET, WHICH LEADS TO NORFOLK'S CITIES OF THE DEAD— 
AND CONCLUDES WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THESE INTEREST- 
ING BUT MELANCHOLY ACRES. 

No street in the city gives the same food for solemn 
reflection to the citizens of Norfolk as 



for be he professional man, mechanic or laborer, he 
knows that his last ride will be through this street; for 
when the first lays aside his legal-cap, the second his 
tools, and the last bids eternal leave to his labors, be he 
rich or poor, white or black, the last roadway, intended 
for the living, that his remains will pass over before 
they are deposited within the white-washed walls of 
Norfolk's Campo Sanco is known as Cumberland street. 



76 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

The street, unfortunately for the city, the city's trade 
and the convenience of citizens, does not have the water- 
front for a starting-point; but although it commences at 
a street which looks narrow and forbidding, I did not 
have to take many steps before I found myself interested 
in and viewing the 



which here displays its substantial front. It is of the 
Doric order, and possesses two heavy flights of granite 
steps, which reach a solid platform of the same material 
that supports two solid columns and with them makes 
an impressive entrance to a well-decorated interior. 

A few feet further up on the same side brought me 
to the 

CUMBERLAND STREET BAPTIST CHURCH. 

It is a clean, neat-looking building, and belongs to the 
same order of architecture as the one just described, and, 
although of the same general design, differs materially, 
from the fact that it has no granite platform. Its two 
Doric columns support a pediment within which a well- 
designed panel informs the public, in letters of gold, 
that it was erected in 1816, while two pretty grass- 
plats in front of the structure add much to its general 
appearance. 

The reason these buildings interested me so much was 
because everything about them bear the impress of 
solidity, and they are fine specimens of the Grecian 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 77 

style and Doric order without ridiculous embellishments, 
now rapidly disappearing. 

A short distance further up brought me to 

CUMBERLAND CASTLE, 

a rusty, two-story-and-basement stuccoed construction, 
evidently created for three purposes : First, to show how 
ghostly a look a habitation intended for the living can 
possibly have; second, how best to display sixteen 
columns where they can do the least good; and third, 
how ridiculous the Doric order used in the Italian style 
can be treated. 

As I was gazing at its abandoned-looking front, a 
gentleman walking by informed me that it was named 
Cumberland Castle, and that this street, one of the most 
interesting in Norfolk, was actually named in honor of 
this wreck ; but I am satisfied that this is a mistake, 
and that the street was called after the brother of 
Charles the Second, the Duke of Cumberland, who 
commanded the victorious army at the battle of Culloden. 
The street up to here I found possessed good and com- 
fortable habitations, built of brick and wood, and 
occupied by white citizens; it continues the same way 
up to East Butte, after crossing which it becomes the 



as it is given up to the recognized bon ton of the colored 
population as a place of residence. 

On the corner of Suffolk I came to a substantial, 
well-designed brick structure (occupying, with grounds, 



^ 



78 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

an entire square), which gives evidence that it was 
intended and well adapted for school purposes, aud upon 
enquiring found that it had been erected by the city of 
Norfolk for her 

COLORED JUVENILES. 

This certainly does not look as if the South was opposed 
to the education of the negro. 

A few steps further, and I stood in front of 

CEDAR GROVE CEMETERY, 

one of the three great burial-grounds of the city of 
Norfolk. The entrance, which fronts the end of Cum- 
Ixirland street, and is in foct the 

MAIN ENTRANCE 

to the entire system, is not, I am sorry to say, what it 
should be. It consists of four square piers built of 
brick, the only attempt at ornamentation being an arched 
recess in each and caps which look decidedly military, 
and which fail to give it that solemn appearance almost 
necessary in a cemetery entrance; in fact, the four can- 
non-balls on the tops of these business-like looking 
piers, and the general appearance of the entire structure, 
would force almost any one to believe that it is the gate- 
way to a navy yard or the grounds attached to an 
arsenal or barracks. But the moment I stepped inside, 
the well-cared-for glistening shelled walks, the close- 
clipped grass, the waving cedars, and last, tlie mournful 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOIvIS. 79 

marble monuments, convinced me that I was on sacred 
ground. 

This is the oldest of the cemeteries, and the monu- 
ments, although not particularly grand, are nearly all 
well designed and of imperishable material. The vaults 
are of the old pattern, some faced with brick, and all 
lacking the delicate traceries which the chisel has 
wrought upon the fronts of some of the late erections 
of that class of repositories for the dead in the great 
rural cemeteries scattered throuj^hout the land; but 
none of these show the decayed and fallen-in apj>earance 
which is, unfortunately, so prevalent in old burying- 
grounds, and the many little grass-covered mounds show 
that care and attention is still bestowed upon them. In 
fact, I could see no evidence of neglect anywhere. 

I walked up the main drive and walk (which, in 
an air-line, traverses the entire length of the grounds), 
and at the end found a gate, and upon walking through 
it cast my eyes upon a scene which few strangers, know- 
ing the flat surface that Norfolk stands on, and having 
just passed through Cedar Grove (which, having no 
elevations save those made by the graves, looks particu- 
larly flat), is hardly prepared to find. This remarkable 
change in the landscape, which has natural features suf- 
ficent to insure fine park-like eifects with very little 
outlay, is a decline or giussy slope to a tidal marsh 
abounding in rush and reeds, which even chill winter 
does not entirely rob of its wild beauty, and a corre- 
sponding upward slope towards the new cemetery. The 
marsh is crossed by a solid embankment which, having 



80 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

a graceful curve, is in beautiful contrast to the straight 
walks of the cemeteries. The stream is crossed by a 
substantial stone arch. 

After looking at this scene for a few moments I 
walked over to 

ELM\VOOD CEMETERY, 

and the very moment I passed through the regulation 
gate-way I observed (as far as the general plan and sur- 
face are concerned) that it is a duplicate of Cedar 
Grove: the same flat grounds, the same straight, stiff- 
looking walks crossing at right angles. It is, however, 
larger, has a greater number of trees (elm and cedar 
predominating), and the monuments are costlier, and, as 
a consequence, larger and more elaborate. 

I realize that the majority of even the most enthu- 
siastic citizens of Norfolk; when it comes to a discus- 
sion of how to make Cedar Grove and Elmwood equal 
in beauty to the great park-like rural cemeteries of the 
prominent cities both North and South, with their hills, 
valleys, ravines, grottoes, streams and lakelets, imme- 
diately give way in despair. But they need not do so, 
for although both are unfortunate in being laid out on 
the checker-board plan, instead of having serpentine 
walks and winding drives which permit of oval, oblong 
and circular lots, in place of the regulation squares 
which the first makes necessary, and which it is too late 
now to rectify, both cemeteries being too old (for when 
Cedar Grove was first dedicated I could not find out, it 
being so far back that no one knew the exact date, and 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 81 

as for Elmwood, it was opened in 1853, when the air 
was charged with that malignant scourge, yellow fever, 
and the great number of deaths caused hasty burials 
with little regard to landscape effects), I still say 
that, with all these difficulties to contend against, the 
two great cemeteries of Norfolk could be made most 
beautiful in a scenic point of view, and that, too, with 
little expense, by being thrown into one. The sought- 
for redeeming features are the slopes, salt meadow and 
tidal stream between the two. 

The following advice, if acted upon, I am satisfied 
will give Norfolk a cemetery of which she would have 
a right to be proud : Take down the north wall of 
Cedar Grove and the south wall of Elmwood. This 
would not only give brick enough to substantially run 
down each way to the bank of the creek, and thus prac- 
tically put both under one enclosure, but also have some 
to spare to help to permanently enclose West Point, the 
adjoining colored cemetery. The two white cemeteries 
thus made one would add, by their severe regularity, to 
the beauty of the scene; and the many light tints and 
shades of the monuments occupying the most elevated 
ground would make a splendid contrast to the deep green 
of the trees and other shrubbery that surrounds them. 
The intervening land, being uneven, gives f ne scope for 
landscape effects and horticultural displays, and the 
water-way, by building a retaining wall (the outer sur- 
face moss, reed or grass-grown, in order to take away its 
artificial effect), could be utilized for a pretty lake. 

Although these cemeteries look flat, they are anything 



82 kokfolk; the marine metropolis. 

but devoid of history, romance or startling reminiscence. 
The memorials in Elmwood embrace everything in the 
form of sculpture, from the Gothic canopy, the Egyptian 
obelisk, or 



made famous by Gray, to the equally touching and im- 
pressive tribute of the less wealthy — the simple inscribed 
slab; for the citizens of Norfolk have innate that noblest 
trait in the' American character — the loving care for the 
dead. Cost is no consideration when the grave of a 
loved one is to be marked by enduring stone, and Elm- 
wood shows it. 

The first monument to attract my attention in Elm- 
wood was that erected by the Masonic fraternity to 

DR. UPSHUR, 

who fell a victim to the yellow fever in 1855, while 
ministering to the sick who were afflicted with that dis- 
ease. It is of marble, ornamented with scrolls, Father 
Time, the Virgin, broken pillars and other Masonic 
symbols, and is crowned with an urn encircled with a 
wreath of roses. 

After leaving the grave of this heroic physician, I 
concluded to walk up the avenue which lies in front of 
it, and which is carpeted with soft green grass and 
shaded by a variety of trees, to the monument erected in 
memory of Mrs. Dickson, which is a magnificent floral 
design well executed in marble. From here, I found, 
on my way, many monuments which are costly and ap- 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 83 

propriate. At the end of this walk I turned to the 
right and proceeded down the main avenue to the en- 
closure of the 

UNITED FIRE COMPANY. 

In the centre of this is an appropriate marble monu- 
ment, and the shields, bearing the letters C. S. A., over 
many of the graves, show that they fliced other fire 
besides that of burning buildings. 

Next in line, a path intervening, are the grounds of 
the 

HOWARD ASSOCIATION, 

that noble organization of ministering angels who are 
always first in the field when pestilence is abroad and 
death lurks in the atmosphere. 

From here I sauntered down to the 

WESTON IMONUMENT, 

which is unquestionably the handsomest in Norfolk. It 
is a highly-decorated Gothic structure. Three well- 
executed statuettes, acting as finials to three buttresses, 
well represent Faith, Hope and Charity; while under 
a most elaborate canopy stands a classically-robed statue, 
having every expression of sorrow, leaning on an urn 
which stands on an inscribed pedestal. 

When I reached the gate I took the next path that 
led north, and soon found myself in front of the well- 
designed monument over the mortal remains of Miss 
Martha Berkley, which consists of a base with a life- 
size marble statue of a maiden leaning upon a cross. 



84 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

I next found the 



erected by grief-stricken children over the remains of an 
affectionate mother. Four polished granite columns are 
introduced in this structure, which is of marble, two of 
them capped by urns, the other assisting in the support 
of a canopy on which is cut a female arising from her 
sleep and an angel, with crown in hand, pointing up- 
ward. It is a grand piece of work, while the tangle of 
ivy, just above, looks as if the chisel might have been 
guided by a hand equal for execution to that of Michael 
Angelo. 

After leaving this walk I found the most noticeable 
monuments much scattered. The Dalryraple, a fine 
paneled obelisk, and opposite, the one erected to Geo. J. 
Thomas, a soldier of the Confederacy, in a panel of 
which stands the figure of Hope on a cliff lashed by 
marble waves; the tall and well-cut memorial to Wm. 
H. Turner ; — all on the same path and near each other, 
are well worth seeing. 

On the very next avenue I found a beautiful granite 
obelisk to Dr. Tunstall, and another to that eminent 
scholar, Hugh Blair Grisly, LL. D. 

On another path stands the polished granite memorial 
erected over the tomb of Mr. Kader Biggs, who was 
born in Williamston, N. C., followed by a handsome 
marble monument to the memory of young Gary Wes- 
ton, on which, in a panel, is a draped female figure look- 
ing at a cross with an expression wonderfully sincere. 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 85 

Many other monuments, both granite and marble, 
which the want of space crowds out of this little book, 
are worthy of mention, notably that of the much be- 
loved physician. Dr. Thomas Nash; the beautiful pol- 
ished granite stone in memory of Edwin Nash; and 
another to the wife of Mr. Thos. R. Balentine, a lady 
born in Currituck county, N. C. 

One well-cared-for mound, particularly, attracted my 
attention, for it contains all that is mortal of one whose 
memory is not only held dear by the citizens of the 
State he loved and served so well, but also the entire 
South — the late 

JAMES BARRON HOPE. 

No memorial as yet marks the spot where this unselfish 
citizen, '^unflinching journalist, patriot, poet and sol- 
dier'' is interred, and I hope no monument will be 
raised by just the family alone, as I think the public 
have a right to become contributors. I am satisfied there 
is not a journalist or printer in Virginia or the Carolinas 
but would consider it a proud privilege to contribute 
towards building to him a monument of marble as pure 
and spotless as his character, and outside of the sanctum, 
the composing and press-room his friends are legion. 

There are three plots occupied by societies that are 
very interesting. One is known as the 

PICKETT-BUCHANAN CAMP. 

The interments here are very few, and I sincerely hope 
that it may be so a long time, and that the " last taps " 
and the farewell volleys will not find an echo among the 



86 NORFOLK; THE MARINE MPrrROPOLTS. 

trees of Elm wood for many years. Many Confederate 
and some Federal soldiers are buried in family lots. 
Among them are a number of Confederate commodores 
and commanders, while near them two United States 
commodores are also resting peacefully. One of these 
died the year the war commenced, while the other, who 
departed this life in 1887, often, on Federal decks, 
answered with ano^rv cruns to a Confederate cannonade. 
The second of these plots that gives food for reflection 
is that owned by the 



Here lie buried, far from their native homes, mariners 
who have died at or near Norfolk. The sixteen men 
who made their last voyage in the German ship Eliza- 
beth, which foundered almost in sight of one of Nor- 
folk's most noted pleasure resorts, also rest liere in peace. 
The other plot is 

THE elks' rest, 

the name being cut in legible and enduring letters upon 
a block of stone. In the centre of this well-turfed lo,t, 
which is marked by marble posts, stands a giant elk. 
I had finished my walk through the cemetery, and was 
on my way out when I observed this representation of 
the monarch of the North American forest, and con- 
cluded to get nearer. Acting on that resolution, I soon 
found myself standing under the shadow of his great 
antlers. It required no tongue to syllable the fact that 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 87 

I was at one of the burial-places of that fraternity 
which, though organized only a few years back by a few 
actors, has now developed into an organization which 
extends from ocean to ocean and gives daily demonstra- 
tion of the good that can be done by following the 
motto cut ou the monument, ''Brotherly Love, Fidelity, 
Charity and Justice." I am not a member of this 
brotherhood, but I cannot help but have admiration for a 
body of men whose first thought, evidently, is for the 
dead. The elk, elevated upon his lofty and substantial 
pedestal, looks the very embodiment of active life, and, 
thus surrounded by the dead, makes a remarkable and 
rather strange contrast. When I looked at this noble 
specimen of the deer tribe, with head proudly erect, ap- 
pearing to breathe words of defiance as he surveys the 
surroundings, I could not help but think that the artist 
intended these words should be: 

"Oh death, where is thy sting? 
Oh grave, where is thy victory?" 



CHAPTER IX. 

WHICH IS RATHER SHORT— BUT COVERS CONSIDERABLE TERRI- 
TORY—FOR IN IT I WALK THROUGH HOLT STREET AND BRAM- 
BLETON. 

HOLT STREET 

is divided into three distinct and wholly unlike parts. 
The first, from Church street to Chapel, is not remark- 
able for the grandeur of the buildings which line its 
fronts; the second. Chapel to Walke street, has a de- 



88 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

cidedly foreign look, caused in part by a number of 
theological structures, schools and charitable institutions 
massed together, instead of being in different districts, 
as is usual in this country. The most prominent of all 
these is 

' ST. MARY^S CHURCH, 

which is the largest and probably the costliest in the 
State. Its magnitude can only be appreciated by view- 
ing it from various points, the best being from the side- 
walks of Holt street (a few feet east of the building), 
where it gives the fairest impression of its size, and also 
from Chapel street south of its front. The edifice is of 
brick, stuccoed, and the style is the decorated Gothic. 
Its steeple is very conspicuous, being the highest eleva- 
tion yet reached by any structure in Norfolk, and its 
general effect would be very pleasing were it not that its 
greatest length is zinc or iron which appears to be ap- 
pealingly looking for a coat of paint in order to conform 
in color with the rest of the building. The interior, 
however, makes up for many faults, for it commands 
the admiration of all who visit it, and the general ver- 
dict, irrespective of creed, of all who scan its three 
altars (the central beautified with Roman mosaics), its 
columns, capitals, busts of the evangelists, its magnifi- 
cent roof and the great columns that assist in supporting 
it, its marble tiled floor, its organ loft, with the heroic 
and appropriately-decorated, instrument, the stations of 
the cross, presented by members, each an individual 
study of merit in oil, consistently framed, and the many 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 89 

large stained-glass windows, is that it is a remarkably 
handsome interior. 

A little to the rear, and facing Holt street, stands the 
old church, now used, I believe, as a school. It is a 
fair specimen of the Doric order and Grecian type. 

On the corner of Reily street, in a large yard, well 
adorned with shrubbery, stands a mansion which has the 
most foreign ap[)earance of any creation on the street. 
It is in the Italian style, and I am satisfied the architect 
must have got his inspiration from Norfolk's Cumber- 
land Castle. Standing back in the garden which sur- 
rounds it, it makes a more creditable appearance than 
the parent structure. It was formerly the residence of 
the pastor of St. Mary's, whose individual property, I 
believe, it still remains. 

Next to this I observed the building known as 

ST. J;OHN's ACADEMY, 

which has an excellent situation, but a rather awkward- 
looking tower. A Protestant orphan asylum comes 
next. It stands on the corner of Walke street. There 
are two more of these institutions which give a home 
and protection to the fatherless in this city — one Protest- 
ant, and the other, which also does good work, under the 
supervision of the Catholic Church. 

From Walke street to the bridge. Holt has a 

DECIDEDLY AMERICAN 

appearance. On the north side I passed a number of 
pretty cottages. One near the water is very elaborate, 



90 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOT.IS. 

and built of brick, terra-cotta and marble, with quite a 
display of colored glass. Each of these cottages has a 
small green in front, and the rustic fences which enclose 
some give them a very pleasing ap})carance. 

On the south-east corner I noticed a palatial residence, 
one of the finest in the city. It is of pressed brick, 
plentifully faced with marble. 

At the foot of this street I crossed the wooden bridge 
to 

BRAMBLETON, 

the latest addition to the city, now called East Norfolk. 
It is well situated between two lovely sheets of water — 
the one I crossed, which is known as Mahone Lake (and 
is, at high tide, well entitled to the term), and the 
Eastern Branch. It is already a pretty place, and when 
the trees which line nearly all its streets have the advan- 
tage of a few more years growth it will be remarkably 
handsome. Four of its many well laid out thorough- 
fares are already particularly noticeable. They are 
AVilloughby, Park and Brambleton avenues and Lovett 
street. It was upon the first named that I found myself 
when I stepped off the bridge, and the first place that 
attracted my attention was the 

HEMINWAY SCHOOL 

and its magnificent stretch of green grass and original 
growth of stately pines, enclosed in a neat but substan- 
tial iron fence, which does so much towards beautifying 
this new part of the city. 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 91 

The leading industry of this district, I should judge, 
after a ramble through it and observing the many acres 
of hot-houses filled with choice growing flowers, to be 
horticulture. Three florists have their gardens here. 

Many wooden churches and two built of brick are 
already created. One of the latter is a pretty little 
Presbyterian church with a curious little belfry, and the 
other a Baptist with quite a handsome interior. 



CHAPTER X. 

WHICH IS VERY IMPORTANT, FROM THE FACT THAT IT DESCRIBES 
SOME OF NORFOLK'S MOST INTERESTING AND PECULIAR PLACES 
AND LANDMARKS. 

In this chapter I wish to point out spots and ])]aces 
in Norfolk that are unlike those of any other city, and 
which are likely to indelibly impress themselves u])on 
the stranger as being among the leading features of the 
city. The first and most prominent among them is 

MARKET SQUARE. 

It is not a city's publi(; square in the usual acceptation 
of the term, but two streets, three l)locks long, on each 
side of the principal market, and is, without doubt, dur- 
ing certain hours each day, the busiest and most crowded 
place, of the same area, in Virginia or the Carob'nas, for 
not only does most of the population of Norfolk and 
suburbs do their marketing and shop])ing here, but at 



92 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

one end the two ferries which connect the two principal 
suburbs (Portsmouth and Berkley) pour forth masses of 
human freiglit to intermingle with this already dense 
crowd, and at the other end the street-car lines make a 
common centre, and it is also the only carriage, express 
and job wagon stand in the city. The well-stocked 
market is open every day from early morning to noon 
and on Saturday until ten at night. To see the huck- 
ster-stands and market wagons filled with the choicest 
of vegetables from the great truck farms of Virginia 
and North Carolina; the fish-stands, with the scaly 
products of the contiguous sounds, bays and rivers; 
game from the marshes of Currituck Sound, Chesapeake 
Bay and the great Dismal; — is a sight worth seeing on 
a Saturday night, when hundreds of smoking, glaring 
torches illuminate these same stands; all the rest of the 
available space being occupied by 

STREET ORATORS 

in carriages, each supplied with great blazing lamps and 
surrounded by crowds, which adds no little to the busy 
and remarkable appearance of the square. Some harangue 
the multitude W proving that they have soap that will 
even remove the stains from the character of a New 
York "boodle alderman"; or medicine that will cure 
every disease from corns to consumption ; or microscopes 
with which a man can look through a foot of plank ; 
or cement that will mend anything from the main shaft 
of an ocean steamer to a broken heart. 

There is no place in Norfolk where a better idea can 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 93 

r 

be formed, by contrast, of her improvement since the 

war than by 

THE TWO FERRY-HOUSES 

which stand side by side at the foot of Market Square. 
Both are owned by the same corporation. One was 
built before the v,'ar, and is contracted, low in pitch, 
built of wood, and has a decidedly cheap appearance; 
is devoid of all ornamentation as well as comfort, and 
for years has been permitted to disfigure this site, which 
it does yet, but people are no longer forced to go through 
its unhospitable, barn-like quarters. The new one just 
erected and now in daily use has a lofty archway, and 
its outside, constructed of ornamental iron, has a cheer- 
ful look. Being of generous width^ it is roomy and 
comfortable, has well-appointed waiting-rooms, and the 
interior is finished in woods from the adjoining Southern 
forests. 

There are two street crossings in Norfolk which no 
stranger should fail to see, and though they are both 
made famous on account of the buildings that occupy 
the respective corners, they are so unlike that compari- 
son would be ludicrous. The first combines all the 
stateliness, the solemnity and quiet of the most select, 
tradition-haunted quarter of an English cathedral town, 
while the other, with one corner excepted, has all the 
stir and blending of business that forms the prominent 
feature of the wildest and newest Western city. The 
first of these crossings presents, without question, 



94 NORFOIJv; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

THE MOST PICTURESQUE COMBINATION 

of buildings in Norfolk. It lias a decidedly English 
look — in fact, has more the appearance of the genteel 
section of an old English college town than the majority 
of the cities of modern Britain can themselves produce. 
There is only one thing which would look strange there, 
but not out of harmony, and that is the well-developed 
magnolias which here spread their magnificent branches. 

On the south-east corner stands a grand old residence, 
which looks as if it might have been occupied by some 
of the nobility before the Revolution, if it did not bear 
in very legible gilt letters the date of its erection (1798). 
A neat yard, embellished with a fountain and flowers, 
adds much to its appearance, and ^ts front is ornamented 
with a pretty Corinthian porch. In the rear (a few feet 
back in the same enclosure) is a two-story brick of 
peculiar design, which should not escape the eye of the 
visitor. 

On the opposite corner stands another old mansion, 
also of brick (of the glazed ante-colonial pattern). It 
differs materially in design from its neighbor, and looks 
considerably older. It also has a neat porch with fluted 
columns with Ionic capitals. In its capacious back-yard 
a magnificent magnolia casts its shade. No one should 
fail to walk up Free Mason street towards Brewer and 
look at the back of this quaint old building. Its pecu- 
liar-looking windovvs and its ivy-covered walks have a 
home-like appearance hard to imitate. 

The other corner of note is that occupied by the Free 
Mason Street Baptist Church, which, with its dignified 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 95 



t 



front and well-proportioned, pinnacled tower, finishes a 
picture that for quiet beauty, refinement, venerable ap- 
pearance and solid comfort, without ostentation, is seldom 
seen. 

The other crossing, as I iiave before stated, is as dif- 
ferent from this as the mind can picture. I did not 
make the discovery myself, and probably would have 
passed it unnoticed if a friend had not pointed out to 
me the peculiar combination that forms the strange 
make-up of the crossing of 

CHURCH AND COVE STREETS. 

The latter should be called Curve street, for if there is 
any street that equals Church in. crooks, curves and un- 
natural turns it is certainly Cove. The four corners 
formed by these two streets are very different in appear- 
ance and the use made of them; and, if it had been 
carefully studied, no establishments could have been 
devised to better work hand in hand. On one corner is 
a grocery store, well stocked with edibles to sustain life; 
on that diagonally across is a thoroughly equipped drug 
store, so that, if a man should arrive at that particular 
stage in his career where, through sickness, he should 
be prevented from eating, and that medicine must take 
the place of food, there is his medicine; and, if that 
should fail, directly opposite an undertaker has his shop 
and mysterious paraphernalia ready; while diagonally 
across is the solemn grave-yard which surrounds old 
St. Paul's Church. Thus, on these four corners, every 
leading step in life is represented — active health, sick- 
ness, preparation for the tomb, and the tomb itself. 



96 



Norfolk, to a considerable extent, is a city of sur- 
prises, but I never was more surprised than when I 
walked up James street and found that this street, which 
is almost entirely occupied by people who, though hon- 
est and industrious, certainly do not belong to the 
wealthy class, and small retail stores, possesses the only 



in the city. These magnolias are planted at the outer 
edge of the side-walk for over three hundred feet. They 
were put there by an eccentric French florist who owned 
the grounds back of them, on which he has a literal 
forest of magnolias. It is known among the neigh- 
bors as 

THE MAKTINS' REST, 

for the reason that in summer hundreds of thousands of 
these birds make them their resting-place at night. It 
is a sight to see these great armies of feathered wan- 
derers darken the sky as they circle 'round this little 
forest and then to shoot down as if they were so many 
arrows; so rapid is their descent that many every night 
get killed by the concussion in their eager haste to find 
a resting-place. 

Personal observation has shown me that there is no 
city in the United States where the 

COLORED POPULATION 

have better opportunities for advancement or gaining a 
livelihood than in Norfolk ; and there is no place on 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 97 

earth, not excepting Africa's Liberia or America's 
Massachusetts, where they are safer in the possession of 
their property, can make an easier living, are better 
clothed, or attend to their own business more than they 
do in Norfolk; and, last and best of all, are better 
housed. Although they live in different parts of the 
city, the majority are massed in that remarkable net- 
work of streets which lie north of Charlotte, east of 
James, west of Church, and south of the cemeteries. 
A good many of the new houses are neat two-story 
brick buildings (with two-story kitchens attached) and 
are intended for two families. The main thoroughfare 
occupied by them is 

QUEEN STREET, 

and is unquestionably one of the best situated in the 
city, and, with the increase of the city's population and 
wealth, it is destined to become one of its leading busi- 
ness avenues. At the present time it is not only the 
promenade, but also the main business causeway of the 
colored population. Although it has no great buildings, 
there is much to be seen and to study on this street. 
The best time is between six and ten on a summer even- 
ing. It is then the colored people, being released from 
labor, don at once their happy dispositions and good 
clothes, and the dusky belle strolls coquettishly with the 
fantastically-dressed, dark-hued dude, or they scatter the 
dust, in one of the many improvised dance- halls, with 
their delicate " plantations." 



98 



There are a large number of 

COLORED CHURCHES 

in the city. The most conspicuous stands on the corner 
of Bank and Charlotte streets. The exterior of the 
structure is quite pleasing, the leading attraction being a 
large rose window. It is said that it will be the fortu- 
nate possessor of a very high steeple; up to the time of 
this writing it is only a little above the roof-iine, pa- 
tiently waiting for the congregation to raise more money 
to 2:1 ve it the intended elevation. 



CHAPTER XL 

WHICH IS ADDRESSED TO THE CITIZENS OF NORFOLK AND THE 
ADJOINING CITIES AND VILLAGES IN GENERAL AND SUBMITTED 
TO THE BUSINESS PEOPLE OF THE SAME IN PARTICULAR— 
WITH THE HOPE THAT IT WILL BE HONORED WITH A CARE- 
FUL PERUSAL, AS IT TREATS UPON BUSINESS, PARKS, EXIST- 
ING DISADVANTAGES— AND, MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL, GIVES A 
FORMULA FOR THEIR REMEDY. 

In writing this book it was my intention to limit my 
descriptions to the architectural, physical and other at- 
tractive features of the city of Norfolk that would be 
of interest to the stranger, ignoring trade statistics, and 
mentioning great buildings and wharves in place of the 
business transacted in and on them, thus making it a 
guide to existing things in the form of a narrative, in 
order to relieve it as much as possible of the direct and 
technical descriptions which prove so tedious in books of 



A^ORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 99 

this class. But when I walked through its streets, and 
became better acquainted with its hospitable people and 
studied its natural advantages, I became thoroughly in- 
terested, and the more interested the more 

PUZZLED : 

Puzzled as to how a city, standing upon a site 
selected over two hundred years ago (1681), laid out 
in the same year and inhabited ever since, and the wis- 
dom of the choice never having been disputed, has not 
a larger population. Puzzled, that being situated in 
latitude 36° 50' 50'^ N., the most favored part of the 
Temperate Zone, with the great Gulf Stream nearer to 
her than any other city of note in the world, thereby 
further tempering her climate; w^th an ever-open water- 
way to the ocean; with a harbor so thoroughly locked 
against destructive wind and wave as to be as safe as a 
mill-pond in the fiercest storm; — that she has not a 
greater transatlantic trade. Puzzled, that with the ad- 
vantage of natural inland navigable water-courses which 
are without a parallel in the world ; with Chesapeake 
Bay making both shores of Maryland and Virginia 
directly tributary; with the Delaware and Chesapeake 
Canal bringing the Delaware water-shed within its grasp ; 
having, through the agency of the Rarritan Canal, shel- 
tered inland navigation to the Hudson river, Erie Canal 
and the great lakes; with the Potomac, the James, the 
Rappahannock, the York and other streams further 
assisting to bring to its doors the products of Virginia, 
Maryland and the immediate West and IS^orth; and 



100 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

from the South, through that triumph of engineering, 
the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal, throwing into her 
lap cotton, naval stores, lumber, etc., from the sound 
and many of the river counties of North Carolina; — 
that she is not a greater inland distributing centre and 
does not enjoy a greater wholesale trade. 

I know that this is not a popular way of writing, and 
will be considered by some quite out of the usual routine, 
as the greater number of articles which treat on Norfolk 
show very plainly that the authors believed that the 
only road to success lay in an endeavor to flatter its 
population into the belief that the city has made won- 
derful strides in population, trade and wealth, in spite of 
the fact that the site of Norfolk and that of 

THE SECOND LARGEST CITY 

on North or South American soil was selected the same 
year, and there is no person, endowed with average 
judgment, who will look at the map, but will admit that 
the situation of Norfolk is superior to that of Philadel- 
phia; yet the census of 1880 showed that the population 
of Pennsylvania's metropolis that year was 846,984, 
while that of Virginia's favored port was only 21,966. 
In 1840 the city of Chicago contained 4,479 inhabitants, 
but since that date she has raised herself twelve feet 
above the mud of an Illinois prairie, reversed the course 
of a river (so as to throw her sewage into the Mississippi 
to keep from polluting her water supply), lost two hun- 
dred million dollars by one fire, and came forth more 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 101 

vigorous than ever for a struggle for first place among 
the cities of the nation. 

I write this, the reverse of the usual style, without 
any hesitancy, because I am satisfied that every sensible 
man in Norfolk will agree with me in saying that her 
people should realize her capabilities and advantages, 
and all should unite in making Norfolk one of the 
greatest cities on the globe. I will readily admit that 
I never would have touched on this subject if I had 
only diagnosed the disease, but having discovered a 
remedy, and owing Norfolk a debt of gratitude, I con- 
cluded to give her the benefit of the formula. 

No matter which way I walked I could see some fea- 
ture that, if properly taken advantage of, would add to 
the greatness of the city. Then the question would 
again arise: Why a port with a situation for commerce 
equal to New York or Liverpool ; for the manufacture 
of cotton goods superior to Manchester or Lowell (on 
account of the raw material growing up to her very cor- 
porate limits); why, with lines of silvery rails to the 
coal and iron fields of the mountains of Virginia and 
West Virginia, and with a large number of other rail- 
roads and water transportation lines zealously working 
in her behalf, she has not made greater strides on the 
road to comparative prosperity with the great trade and 
manufacturing centres of the continent. It did not 
take me very long to find the cause, for it soon becomes 
apparent to the most superficial observer. It is this : 



102 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

NORFOLK IS LITERALLY WALLED IN 

by her suburbs, which appear to have raised a barricade 
to prevent her growth, and up to this date, with one 
solitary exception (Brambleton), have been unquestion- 
ably the greatest disadvantage she has had to contend 
ao-ainst. The inhabitants of these surburban cities and 
villages must certainly know that individually their cor- 
porations never can become great cities, and, as a result, 
cannot realize good values or sufficiently profitable usage 
for their estates; yet many of their inhabitants oppose 
every attempt to make this one municipality, when even 
the most illiterate stranger possessing reasoning powers 
can see at a glance that the only way for Norfolk and 
her suburbs to get the full measure of their greatness is by 

ANNEXATION, 

thereby throwing all into one civic system. The way 
the matter now stands, Norfolk and her surrounding 
cities and towns are the central figures of unquestionably 
the best representation (on American soil) of the 

CELEBRATED IRISH CAT FIGHT 

which made Kilkenny famous. On one side of the line 
we find Norfolk, on the other the suburbs, and as they 
scratch and fight the great cities of the Atlantic seaboard 
laugh, and as they laugh they grow fat at their expense; 
but it's rough on the cats. 

'^What will we gain by annexation?'' is the question 
continually asked by the inhabitants of the suburbs 



NOEFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 103 

when that subject is discussed. The best way to answer 
is by pointing out what has been lost thus far by the 
cut-throat policy which has been pursued for more than 
a hundred years; and I think a few examples, drawn, 
to some extent, from actual occurrences, will serve best 
to show that the claim that new transportation lines 
looking foi* a tei'ujinus, inventors looking for sites to 
erect factories, and wholesale dealers looking for places 
to locate are giiided by population is not problematical, 
but an undeniable fact. 

First: One of a company of California's greatest 
capitalists is in search of a tide-water terminus for a 
great system of railways. He is attracted by the ad- 
vantages afforded by the deep and well-sheltered waters 
at or near Norfolk. Before locating the necessary 
wharves, freight-houses, elevators, etc., he is asked 
whether it would not be advisable to cross the James 
and thus have the advantages afforded l)y the city of 
Norfolk. He replies that to a railroad running from 
ocean to ocean a city of only 21,000 people (as repre- 
sented in the census of 1880) is not taken into considera- 
tion when it comes to locating a terminus, as the 
business created by the road should soon make a city 
nearly as large, and they would have the profits accru- 
ing from advanced land values. He is then reminded 
that Norfolk and her immediate suburbs have over 
60,000 population. 

^'That is even so, but you must remember that it is a 
house divided against itself," is the reply, accompanied 
by a knowing wink. 



104 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

Second : A successful Northern wholesale merchant, 
who is forced, for his health, to seek a more genial 
climate, concludes that Norfolk, as far as situation is 
concerned, is the right place. He looks at the census of 
1880 and despairs, but research shows him the popula- 
tion of the suburbs. He pays a personal visit and finds 
all the ill-feeling existing between them which is the 
natural offspring of a number of corporations situated 
side by side with interests nearly alike. As a conse- 
quence, he goes further South and locates in Charleston, 
South Carolina. 

Third: A large company, being impressed with the 
advantage that Norfolk has in tapping the gold leaf 
tobacco belt of North Carolina through the agency of 
the Seaboard Air Line, takes into consideration the loca- 
tion of a great tobacco factory in Norfolk, but is induced 
to locate in Richmond because it has a larger population. 

These incidents (with probably the first an exception) 
continue to repeat themselves, and I give them to show 
that annexation is not simply a question of sentiment, 
but profit; for the greater the parent city grows the 
greater, naturally, must be the prosperity of her annexed 
suburban children. 

Another advantage this union would afford would be 
a system of parks and drives which would not alone be 
a pleasure and health-giver to the resident population, 
but would also, by attracting visitors, aid the growth of 
this united city. Her equable climate would make her 
a great winter resort. All that is necessary is for her 
to make herself more attractive, and, with her two rail- 



105 



roads reaching the sea-side at Virginia Beach and Ocean 
View, it would be hard to find her equal as a summer 
resort. But as I speak of parks further on, I will now 
hastily review the suburban cities and towns that should 
form part of this grand municipality. The first and 
greatest is 

THE CITY OF PORTSMOUTH, 

which had, in 1880, 11,388 inhabitants. It is well laid 
out, its streets being wide and of good length, two of 
them (High and Court) being particularly noticeable. 
Near the junction of these two, but on Court, stands 
the Confederate monument, constructed of granite from 
the celebrated Linehan quarry of Vance county, N. C. 
Its extreme height is fifty-six feet, and when it receives 
the four bronze statues which are to represent the various 
branches of the Confederacy's combative service it will 
rank among the most artistic, dignified and imposing in 
the nation. 

The city is flanked on the south by the Navy Yard, 
with its solid granite million-dollar dry-dock, its well- 
appointed, well-designed and well-constructed buildings, 
crowded with novel machinery and powerful engines, 
its interesting naval museum, its well-kept walks and 
pretty lawns ; and on the north with the United States 
Marine Park, with its wealth of trees and shrubbery, 
and solid stone sea-walls, well-calculated barriers against 
the encroachments of the greedy waters of the harbor. 

Portsmouth, in a historical point of view, does not by 
any means take a rear place in the rank of American 



106 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

oitios. Laid out in 1752, and made a town the same 
year by an act of Virginia's Colonial Assembly, she 
peacefully accumulated population and wealth up to the 
Revolutionary war. Early in that eventful. struffde for 
liberty Tiord Dunmore retreated from the then capital 
(Williamsburo) and raised tlie royal standard within her 
town limits. She was captured after he abandoned her 
by General I^eslie, and finally became the headquarters 
of that worst and most justly abused of all Americans, 
Benedict Ai-nold. 

During our great fratricidal struggle Portsmouth (as 
also Norfolk) was at different times in the hands of 
both of the contending armies. The destruction of the 
Navy Yard and the Federal fleet anchored at its front, 
and the subsequent building of that marvelous home- 
made marine triumph, the ram Virginia, which the emer- 
gency of the occasion, home designers and mechanics 
brought to such wonderful perfection that she not 
only reversed the usual style of war-ships, but is 
to-day considered as having been a marvel, both in 
model and construction, by the best naval architects of 
all nations. 

Berkley, Huntersville and Atlantic City, which also 
belong to the galaxy of corj)(n-ations which should be 
made part of Norfolk, have been jKirtiallv described in 
other parts of this work. The first and largest was for- 
merly called Washington, and has enjoyed the distinc- 
tion of being the county-seat of Norfolk county. It is 
well laid out and has a number of marine raihvays, but 
it owes most of its prosperity to the improvements made 
bv the 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 107 

NORFOLK SOUTHERN RAILROAD, 

that great corporation which, hacked by energy, push 
and far-seeing intelligence, has by degrees cstablislied its 
depots in nearly every city, town and village in Eastern 
North Carolina — reaching them by rail when possible 
and by steam -boats when necessary. 

Huntersville promises to be more famous when the 
new pleasure garden, described elsewhere, is opened to 
the public. 

Atlantic City has often been invited by Norfolk to 
become part of her, but has so farcoyishly declined, the 
reason for refusal being that she was afraid that her 
powerful neighbor would not give her fair play, evi- 
dently thinking that annexation was a gorgeous parlor, 
Norfolk a monster spider, and she a delicate fly. Nor- 
folk, on tlie other hand, believes that Atlantic City is 
entirely too modestly named; that only one ocean, and 
that not the largest, is not sufficient to give an estimate 
of her idea of her own grandeur and importance, and 
that she should be named The World, as it is supposed 
that this earth we inhabit is about all she wanted in re- 
turn for becoming part of Norfolk; and some people 
think that if Norfolk had had the power to concede. this 
modest request, and had done so, she would have in- 
sisted that two or three constellations from the planetary 
system should be thrown in for good measure. 

The great trouble with Portsmouth appears to be that 
she is afraid of losing her identity and thereby the record 
of her early achievements. But I do not think that 



108 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

should cause her anxiety, as it can be easily remedied by 
throwing the annexed portions into districts and allow- 
ing them to retain their original names, as Boston has 
done. Another reason is because a wide, deep river 
separates the two; but other cities have crossed as wide, 
navigable streams and thereby increased their importance 
and influence. Boston crossed the Charles and swept 
into her limits historical Charlcstown, which contains 
Bunker Hill, upon which took place the celebrated fight 
that will never fiide from the pages of history; also the 
heroic granite shaft which commemorates the event, her 
other monuments, public squares, statues and fountains, 
and her great navy yard. She also annexed Dorches- 
ter, from whose heights Washington forced the British to 
evacuate; crossed the harbor to get in Noddle's Island, 
and crossed more water to increase her territory by de- 
priving South Boston of the cardinal point in her name, 
in order to make her part of the city. 

Philadelphia had no hesitancy in jumping across the 
Schuylkill or Cleveland the Cuyahoga. Baltimore is 
on both sides of the Patapsco. ' Chicago, wnth her nearly 
forty miles of w^iarf front on her rivers, is looking for 
more. 

Brooklyn has made herself the third largest city in 
the United States by annexing the city of Williams- 
burg, and it is very generally conceded that the day is 
not far distant when New York City will quietly reach 
across East river, take her under her municipal wing, 
and, thus united, become the second largest city in the 
world. 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 109 

Another and incalculable benefit that should be the 
outcome of this union is 

A PARK SYSTEM, 

intelligently planned upon a broad and liberal basis. 

The citizens of Norfolk, as well as her suburbs, have 
been negligent as to public grounds, but they have the 
opportunity of forming a consistent system of parks 
and park-ways which would be the admiration of the 
world. 

I write opportunity based upon this reasoning: The 
land can be acquired with little cost and most of it prob- 
ably at no cost. They can make the improvements, 
which always require the greatest outlay, at a trivial ex- 
pense, on account of the material required for them be- 
ing near at hand, in inexhaustible quantities and at the 
lowest prices, and can be delivered at many needed points 
by water. The improvements are the drives, walks and 
paths ; the material, oyster shells. 

This can be accomplished by drawing a line commenc- 
ing at the water-front just outside of Atlantic City and 
continued on just a little outside of the corporate limits 
of that place, also Norfolk, Huntersville, Berkley and 
Portsmouth. 

Don^t make this an imaginary line, but construct a 
grand avenue or boulevard, three hundred feet wide, 
leaving two hundred for park purposes and fifty on each 
side for street uses. Back of the parts most densely 
populated and most accessible to the majority of the 
people this could be reinforced by doubling the amount, 



110 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

thus giving it a width of six hiindred feet. It should 
end just outside of the beautiful government marine 
park, from which a pier should project far out into the 
water, as well as another on the opposite side, in order 
to give citizens and strangers an opportunity not alone 
to behold the grand water views and the outgoing and 
incoming shipping, but also to add healtii and comfort 
in summer by health-aivinp; breezes. 

I know that numbers of people believe that the land 
in and about Norfolk is too flat to permit of any re- 
markable landscape gardening, but I am satisfied, after 
an inspection of parts of it, that there is no greater op- 
portunity for making one of the grandest systems of 
parks and drives in tiie world at a nominal cost, which 
would grow in l)eauty every year, as improvements could 
be added annually, and the trees which it would be nec- 
essary to plant would develop in time to magnificent 
reaches of growing woodland, in which all the species that 
grow in Vir^i^inia and North Carolina would blend their 
leaves, and the many tints form that glow which warms 
the heart and makes man forget his trouble. Nor will 
any park in the world show more well-sheltered waters, 
adapted by nature for pleasure boating, or give better 
opportunities for thoroughly matured, elaborate land- 
scape gardening; for this magnificent and nearly circum- 
navigating chain would cross many beautiful tidal 
streams with graceful shores, many of them already pos- 
sessing beautiful, sloping banks and extensive meadows, 
with the rush and reed so peculiar to tidal waters, ra- 
vines, low hills, wooded slopes and groups of great 



Ill 



trees, thus giving every opportunity for drives and bri- 
dle and foot-paths, past charming scenery, embracing 
water views, valleys, hills and dales possessing sylvan 
retreats, grottoes, green lawns, masses of shrubbery, and 
the many water courses covered by handsome bridges 
and bordered by pretty landings would give thousands 
an opportunity of reaching this creation, which would 
honestly deserve the quotation^ ^'' Pro bono jmblico ! '' 

It would be still better to commence this avenue from 
a new pier just outside of Lambert's Point. This 
would give a length of about ten miles to these parks and 
park-ways. 

Just one thing more is absolutely necessary to make 
Norfolk appear to the stranger, as well as the citizen, a 
beautiful city, and that is by changing the appearance of 
Market Square, for it is here that more people concen- 
trate and more strangers form their impression of Nor- 
folk than anywhere else. 

The removal of the market and using the space it 
occupies for a public park has often been suggested and 
as many times bitterly opposed, the oppositions coming 
mainly, I understand, from gentlemen who own the 
stalls in the market; but I think that this could be 
equitably arranged by building a new and greater mar- 
ket and giving them the choice of the stalls. The strip 
thus released could be made a semi-tropical garden, for 
lovely magnolias could grow in it, delighting the eye with 
their matchless green leaves and loading the air with 
their fragrance, and other plants that could not thrive 
in higher latitudes, while in the centre 



112 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

A MONUMENT, 

towerino^ above all surrouudIn2:s and vieino^ in grandeur 
and artistic merit with the greatest testimonials ever 
carved out of marble or granite or moulded in bronze, 
should be erected to perpetuate the deeds of the heroes of 
three wars : The men of Norfolk who lost their lives 
while fighting Dunmore ^t Great Bridge during the war 
of the Revolution ; the volunteers who prevented the cap- 
ture of the city during the war of 1812 by their des- 
perate and successful defence at Cranie Island, and last 
to the Norfolk soldiers of the Southern Confederacy, 
who for four long years fought in a cause which looked 
hopeless from the first and followed a flag which, though 
never recognized by the nations of the earth, has gained 
the respect of even its greatest enemies on account of 
the fortitude and self-sacrifice of its followers and the 
heroic deeds enacted on both land and sea under its 
folds, now forever furled. 

Norfolk's opportunity for creating 



or rather an embankment, is not altogether lost. It is 
easily made possible by buying the strip back of the es- 
tates in the West End, from the foot of York street to 
near the Newport News and Mississippi Valley Rail- 
road wharf, and moving the retaining walls further out, 
thus securing a magnificent drive and promenade, bor- 
dered by the handsomest, best laid out and most artisti- 
cally arranged grounds in the city on one side, while on 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 113 

the other the ever-moving waters of the harbor, fretted 
with black hulks, white sails and curling smoke, mov- 
ing gracefully and seemingly keeping time to the music 
made bv the waves p^ently lashino; the sea wall. 



Note. — The annexation of the suburbs is no new thing. It has 
been agitated, I understand, and fondly looked for for over thirty 
years, and I think there is no better time to accomplish it than now 
and no better way than by the system of parks and park-ways which 
I have suggested and submitted in this chapter. 

I Cf^n further say to the citizens of Norfolk that this is not planned 
in the interest of any land scheme, as I do not own a foot of ground 
in any of the places mentioned and have never spoken to any one 
upon the subject in or out of the city. 



CHAPTER XII. 

CONCLUSION. 



I have nearly iiuished my task. It was hastily con- 
structed and many circumstances combined to make it a 
work of less magnitude than the subject justifies and 
which more cheerful circumstances would have made it. 

While considerable sickness in my family, and the 
death of my little child, gave me an opportunity of 
seeing how ready the good citizens of Norfolk are to 
soothe and watch by the bedside of the sick (and I am 
grateful for this opportunity to return thanks for their 
honest hospitality and sincere friendship), still these ad- 
verse ci re uui stances and trouble naturally had anything 
but an inspiring eflPect. A great deal of unavoidable 



114 



work in and outside of the literary channel forced me 
out of the city when it would have been to the best in- 
terest of this book for me to have stayed ; and assistance, 
as far as descriptions were concerned, was impossible, as 
I had promised advertisers and other patrons that every 
city and town would be written up by myself and 
backed by personal observation, and if I had not it 
would have been the same, as I have always held that 
the lowest of all swindlers is the thief who will know- 
ingly allow another's brain-work to come out under his 
name. But 

THE END IS DRAWING NEAR, 

and I take a last, lingering look at the city I have de- 
scribed from an upper window of my High street home. 
The trees have been rendered leafless by the gentle touch 
of cold which accompanies winter even in this balmy 
climate, save the near little forest of magnolias which 
refresh the eye with their ever green and ever pleasing 
color; hence my view is unobstructed. I glance at the 
meadow between me and the small tidal stream called 
Paradise creek and then my eyes rest on the opposite 
shore, which consists of about two hundred yards of 
uncultivated land, the foreground relieved by a large- 
sized open boat picturesquely decaying and the remain- 
ing space covered with wild grasses and still wilder 
looking rush. The land slopes gently upward to the 
city, which is solidly massed in a long line in front of 
me, looking at this distance more than ever like some 
ancient English cathedral or college city, with the Bap- 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 115 

tist churchy its square, solid and pinnacled tower, cen- 
trally situated and standing in bold relief, the dome of 
the City Hall and the many church spires that overtop 
the roofs of Norfolk. 

As I pen these closing lines 

DARKNESS 

gradually mantles the earth, and spires, domes, turrets 
and houses recede from my sight like a dream, but I 
linger until Night, with her great dissolving power, has 
taken full possession and removed every outline of the 
distant city. I then make a light, and the first thing it 
brings legibly before me is the title-page of my book, 
which causes me to muse and think until I become sat- 
isfied that if, on some future day in the next century, 
when this great nation will have the Arctic Ocean as its 
only northern boundary and the Panama Canal will 
mark its southern limit, it should be the fortune of one 
of these books to survive and tall into the hands of an 
author whose province it is to describe the city, he will 
smile at its modest title, "Norfolk; the Marine Me- 
tropolis of Virginia,'^ as he boldly names his work — 
"Norfolk; the Marine Metropolis of the Hepublic of 
United North America." 

THE END. 



DIRECTORY 



OF THE MAJORITY OF 



NORPOLK'g LEADIM Wmm HOUm. 



The following names and addresses, undey appropri- 
ate headings, are a list of the majority of the leading 
business houses of the city of Norfolk. 

I do not claim that it is complete, or that it is alto- 
gether the fault of the business men of Norfolk that it 
is not, as I did not have time to see all of them. 

There is one thing, however, that I can say without 
a particle of hesitancy, and that is that no names appear 
except those of firms and individuals that are, as far as 
honest dealing is concerned, absolutely beyond reproach, 
my object being, from first to last, rather to lose twenty 
patrons than to get one that is questionable or unreliable; 
the result being a directory which I can place before 
consigners and purchasers with this assurance: that 
although all the good business houses of Norfolk have 
not been reached, none have been reached hut those that 
are good. 

(For the Press, Attorneys, Dentists and Photogra- 
phers, see Press and Professional Lists of Norfolk, 
Portsmouth and Eastern North Carolina). 

Agricultural Implements. 
C. Billups, 101 and 103 Water street. 



118 NOEFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

Ar/ricultural (Shell) Lime. 

Nottingham & Wrenn, 56 Main street. (See adver- 
tisement). 

Billiards. 
M. Hofheimer, 207 and 209 Main street. 

Beef, Mutton, Pork, Sausage, &g. 

S. S. Dann, Central Market, cor. Granby and Char- 
lotte streets. 

Wm. F.'Dann & Co., 22 and 24 City Market. 
L. Wasserman, 1 and 3 City Market. 

Canal Companies. 

Albemarle and Chesapeake, Franklin Weld, Presi- 
dent. (See advertisement). 

Dismal Swamp, John B. Whitehead, President. 

Crockery and Glassware. 

S. A. Stevens & Co., 29 and 31 Granby street. 

Cigars. 

M. Hofheimer, 207 and 209 Main street. (See ad- 
vertisement). 

Leading Clothing Establishments. * 

Wiginton & Bell, 168 Main street. (See advertise- 
ment). 

F. A. Karn & Co., 166 Main street. 

S. Hofflin, 164 Main street. 

Odenhal & Vicar, 100 Church street, next to Main 
street. 

M. Hohenfels (successor to Goldsmith Bros.), 88 Main 
street. 

Jordan Bros., 124 Main street. 

S. Frank & Co., 156 Main street. 

Burk's, 112 and 114 Main street. 



THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 119 

Coal and Wood. 
Nottingham & Wreiui, 56 Main street. (See adver- 
tisement). 

R. W. Santos & Co., 63 Water street. 

Commission Houses {Cotton). 

Vaiighan & Barnes, McPhail's Wharf. 

Royster & Striidwick, lioom 10 Hare Building. 

Ronntree & Co., Rooms 5 and 6 Hare Building. 

Eure, Farrar & Co., McPhaiPs Wharf. 

J. W. Perry & Co., Tunis Wharf. (See advertise- 
ment). 

Everett Bros., Gibson & Co., Room 9 Hare Building. 

R. A. Dobie & Co., 2 and 4 Roanoke Square. 

Battle, Bunn & Co. 

Harrell Bros., 1 to 9 Commerce street. 

Louis Hilliard & Co. 

Etheridge & Fulgham, 15, 17, 19 and 21 Commerce 
street. (See advertisement). 

J. C. Etheridge & Co., 5 Roanoke Dock. (See ad- 
vertisement). 

S. B. Harrell & Co. 

S. J. Taylor, Higgins Wharf. 

Commission Merchants (Produce). 

Gresham & Ives, 11 and 13 Commerce street. 

Etheridge & Fulgham, 15, 17, 19 and 2^ Commerce 
street. (See advertisement). 

J. W. Perry & Co., Tunis Wharf (See advertise- 
ment). 

J. C. Etheridge & Co., 5 Roanoke Dock. (See adver- 
tisement). 

C. D. Jordan, 9 Roanoke Square. 

S. B. Harrell & Co. 

Commission Merchants (Pea-nuts). 
Etheridge & Fulgham, 15, 17, 19 and 21 Commerce 
street. (See advertisement). 



120 NORFOLK; THE MARINE . METROPOLIS. 

J. W. Perry & Co., Tunis Wharf. (See advertise- 
ment. 

R. A. Dobie & Co., 2 and 4 Roanoke Square. 

J. C. Etheridge & Co., 5 Roanoke Dock. (See ad- 
vertisement). 

Druggists, Wholesale and Retail. 

Walke & Williams, cor. Water street and Roanoke 
Avenue. (See advertisement). 

M. A. & C. A. Santos, 5 Bank street. (See adver- 
tisement). 

John W. Burrow, head of Market Square. 

Dr. D. C. Cannon's Pharmacy, 210 Butte street. 

W. F. Phillips, 216 Main street, opposite Purcell 
Plouse. 

Benjamin F. Cason, Jr., & Co., 317 Church street, 
cor. Wood. 

Dry Goods. 

Harman R. Anderson, 202 Main street. 
E. B. Blamire, 146 Main street. 
Peter Smith, 144 Main street. 

Engines and Boilers. 

C. W. Pettit, 280-286 Water street. (Manufacturers). 

George W. Duvall & Co., Water Street. (Manufac- 
turers). 

Mayer & Co., 4 and 6 Market Square. (Dealers and 
Agents). 

E. V. White & Co., 12 Commercial Row. (Dealers 
and Agents). See advertisement. 

Joseph J. Mclntyre, 60 Roanoke Avenue. (Agent). 
See advertisement. 

Fence (Farm, Gar^den and Ornamental). 
O. M. Styron, 84 Union street. 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 121 

Fertilizers. 
R. A. Dobie & Co., the L. & R., 2 and 4 Roanoke 
Dock. 

J. W. Periy & Co., Tunis Wharf. 

Furniture^ Carpets, &c. 
Ames & Stevens, cor. Main and Granby streets. (See 
advertisement). 

F. P. Mclntyre, 208 Main street. 
W. K. Allen, 153 Church street. 

G-rocers ( ^Mlolesale). 
Washington Taylor, 14, 16 and 18 Commerce street. 
T. A. Williams & Co., cor. Commerce and Elizabeth 
streets. (See advertisement). 

W. F. Allen & Co., 99 Water street. 
Etheridge & Moore, 77 Water street. 

Hardware. 
Mayer & Co., 4 and 6 Market Square. 
J. G. Womble & Son, 19 (east side) Market Square. 
E. V. White & Co., 12 Commercial Row. (See ad- 
vertisement). 

W. R. Hudgins & Co., 35 Market Square. 

Hatters. 
William Stevens, 167 Main street. 
W^alter J. Simmons, 169 Main street. 

Hides, Furs and Wool. 
S. Marx, 19 Roanoke Dock. 

Hotels {Fi7'st-Glass). 
Atlantic. 

St. James, J. A. Kennedy, Proprietor. 
New Purcell. 

Ice. 
Nottingham & Wrenn, 54 Main street. 
6 



122 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

Iron Foundries and Machine Shops. 

Atlantic (W. A. Anderson, Proprietor), 206, 208 and 
210 Water street. 

Elizabeth (C. W. Pettit, Proprietor), 280-286 Wa- 
ter street. 

Jewelry, Diamonds and Watches. 
Chapman & Gale, 152 Main street. 
S. R. Smith, 11 Bank street. 

Junk, Scrap and Damaged Cotton. 
Charles H. Hey, 138 and 140 Water street. 
Liquors, Wiyies, Cordials, Bitters ( Wholesale and Retail). 
E. Yance, 28 Market Square. 
John O'Connor, 13 Campbell's Wharf. 
Hewlitt & Manning, 8 Bank street. 

Marine Railways. 
W. A. Graves, 209-223 Water street. 

Merchant Tailors. 
Carey & Shipp, 94 Main street. 
Capps & Brimmer, 189 Main street. 
S. Brown, 195 Main street. 

Mill Supplies. 

Mayer & Co., 4 and 6 Market Square. 

E. V. White & Co., 12 Commercial Eow. (See ad- 
vertisement). 

Joseph J. Mclntyre, 60 Roanoke Avenue. (Manufac- 
turer's Agent). See advertisement. 

Oil Cloths, Rubber Boots, Shoes, d'C. 
Peter Turney, 1 Market Square. 

Oils. 
Mayer & Co., 4 and 6 Market Square. 
E. Y. White & Co., 12 Commercial Row. 



NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 123 

C. A. Nash & Co., 8 West Market Square. 
Luther Sheklon, 16 West Market Square. 

Walke & Williams, cor. Water street and Roanoke 
Square. 

Joseph J. Mclntyre, 60 Roanoke Avenue. (Agent). 

Produce and Fruit Dealers. 
Williams Bros., 26 Roanoke Square. 

Railroad and Steam-boat Supplies. 

E. y. White & Co., 12 Commercial Row. (See 
advertisement). 

Mayer & Co., 4 and 6 Market Square. 

Joseph J. Mclntyre, 60 Roanoke Avenue. (See 
advertisement). 

Real Estate Dealers and Auctioneers. 
Gardner & Fentress, 29 Bank street. 
H. L. Page & Co. 

Boot and Shoe Stores. 
Henry Brandt, 31 Market Square. 

D. Lowenburg Company. 

George R. Whitehurst, 29 Market Square. 

Soda, Sarsaparilla, Mineral Waters, &g. 
Norfolk Bottling Company, 76 and 78 Church street. 

Seed Growers and Iferchants. 
George Tait & Son, 7 Market Square. 

Sash and Blinds. 
C. A. Nash & Co., 8 West Market Square. 
Luther Shelden, 16 West Market Square. 

Tea, Coffee and Sugar. 

Great Atlantic and Pacific Tea Company, 39 Market 
Square. 



124 NORFOLK; THE MARINE METROPOLIS. 

Tobacco, Cigars, Snuff, d'c. ( Wholesale). 
B. F. Baxter & Co., 76 Water street. 

For additional names and addresses of Norfolk's 
leading business houses, see supplementary list of Nor- 
folk's mercantile and manufacturing establishments and 
transportation lines. 



OTIIE 



Sound and Riisr Sties of Nortb Carolina. 



PART FIRST. 

I realize that any attempt at a description of the 
sonnd and river cities of the State of North Carolina 
with Wilmington, her metropolis, left out would look 
strikingly ludicrous. It is for this reason that I have 
ventured upon the following explanations : 

It is my intention in the immediate future to describe 
all the coast, sound and river cities of the great North 
State in three parts, the first embracing those situated 
upon Albemarle Sound and its tributaries; the second 
upon Pamlico Sound and the waters which flow into it, 
and third, the cities, towns and forts on the Cape Fear 
river. 

My reason for describing the following cities first is 
that they are contiguous to Norfolk and, as a conse- 
quence, the most fit to accompany the first part of this 
volume. 

Tarboro, Greenville, Murfreesboro, and a number of 
other cities which are situated upon streams that find a 
navigable tide-water outlet by way of the Albemarle 
and Chesapeake or the Dismal Swamp canals, are left 
out for the same reason as that given in my conclusion 
to Norfolk — sickness in my family, which forced me to 



1^6 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

stay by the bedside when, under more favorable cir- 
cumstances, I would have been engaged in perfecting 
this book. I can, however, assure my readers that I 
shall make a great endeavor to rectify all these short- 
comings in the forthcoming work. 

GEO. I. NOWITZKY. 



ELIZABETH CITY, N. C, 

THE BELLE OF THE PASQUOTANK. 

England's virgin queen, the petted, petulant and 
piquant Elizabeth, never, in the very zenith of her 
remarkably prosperous reign, looked prouder upon her 
throne than does the active little city so well situated 
upon the Pasquotank river which bears her name; and 
► the subjects of the stern queen never, even in the dark 
hours when the white sails of the Spanish armada 
were found hovering near the sunken rocks of Edystone, 
were more ready to defend her possessions than the sons 
and daughters of "Sweet Bessie,'^ as the citizens fondly 
call their favored city, are to defend the good name of 
the queen of the Pasquotank. 

It is alleged that about the time Tom Moore threw 
his slurs at Norfolk 

A BRITON 

concluded to seek rest for his body, and probably from 
his creditors, and selected this little city for his haven. 
The people, thinking him a gentleman of culture and 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF X. C. 127 

refiDement, extended him many courtesies and be was a 
welcome guest everywhere, but he abused their hospi- 
tality and the citizens soon found it out; for a magazine 
published in London found its way to Elizabeth City 
containing an article from the pen of this gentleman 
upon American Civilization, and claiming that that of 
the white American was not much, if any, in advance of 
the red. This changed their attitude towards him ; 
their former generous hospitality gave way to a stiff 
reserve; in fact, Elizabeth City can actually lay claim to 
a '^boycott" years before Mr. Boycott of Ireland fur- 
nished name for this process of getting rid of an objec- 
tionable person. They had so little to do with him that 
they literally froze him out, and so thoroughly convinced 
him that he was not wanted that when a brigantine 
dropped down the Pasquotank and upon her departure 
took with her (to the great delight of all the citizens) 
this unfortunate man from ^^ perfidious Albion'' the fol- 
lowing oft-quoted lines, which proclaim to the world 
the marvelous jumping power of Pasquotank bull-frogs, 
were, it is said, first brought forth to reinforce the epi- 
grammatic literature of the world : 

" He came to the banks 

Of the Pasquotank, 
Where the bull-frogs jump 

From bank to bank." 

Full of conceit 

And pernicious ire, 
A scoundrel at heart, 

An unmitigated liar. 

When he left, the frogs 

On both the banks 
Croaked themselves hoarse 

In chanting their thanks. 



128 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

For fear that some of my readers may think that I 
am manufacturinaj history, I wish to state that I have 
heard several versions as to the origin of the first verse 
appertaining to the frogs, which has become literally a 
honsehold rliyme thronghont the North State. 

My authority for the others, as well as the distin- 
guished and extinguished visitor from England, is based 
upon the following, which I consider reliable informa- 
tion : 

While in conversation with a number of planters in 
Elizabeth City one of them, the oldest in the party, 
quoted this well-know^n rhyme, and upon my asking 
him if he could possibly tell when he first heard it he 
answered in the negative, at the same time inviting me 
to take a seat in his buggy, and, as an inducement to 
take a ride, assured me that he would bring me to the 
house of a lady who knew all about its history. I 
could scarcely repress a smile at the idea of making a 
trip in quest of such information, and told him that I 
hardly thought its history of sufficient consequence to 
make such a special effort to find. But the old gentle- 
man insisted and held out more inducements. He in- 
formed me that the old lady was a relative of his; that 
she was the possessor of a number of old relics, pictures 
and so on, some of them belonging to the Colonial pe- 
riod, and that she wanted some expert to judge their 
value, as she wished to dispose of them. 

All philosophers agree, at least those who have agreed 
to give the subject any thought, that we arc all more or 
less vain, and I presume I am no exception to this 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 129 

philosophic ruling. To be called an expert was very 
agreeable, and I evidently thought that the compliment 
should be rewarded for I took a seat in the buggy and 
in a short time after was introduced to a lady whose 
head was whitened by the frosts of seventy winters; 
from her I gleamed sufficient information to justify 
what I have said about the Englishman's visit to the 
Pasquotank ; and as to the rhyme she inforijied me that 
when a child she had heard it often, and although she 
retained the first two lines she could only recall that one 
of the others in the next couplet wound up with the 
rather uncomplimentary but expressive word — liar, 
while the concluding lines insisted that even the bull- 
frogs held a jubilee at the unfortunate's departure. With 
this to guide me, I wrote the lines as printed above, and 
after repeating them to her she said that they were nearly 
the same as the original. I then bade her good-bye, first, 
however, informing her where I thought she could sell 
her relics, and faithfully promising 'her that should I 
get into a controversy appertaining to jumping frogs and 
sarcastic Englishmen I would not mention her 
name, as she said she was too old to enfrage in a news- 
paper war. 

This shows that the citizens of Elizabeth City have 
inherited this love of town and home, and whenever 
occasion demands it this innate love comes to the front. 
The last time that they felt as if they had sufficient 
grievance for general resentment was during the stirring 
days known by the citizens as the 



130 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

RAILROAD AA AR. 

The facts, as near as I can recall them, were as follows : 
When the Norfolk Southern Railroad was constructed 
only as far as Elizabeth City it bore the following modest 
title : The Norfolk and Elizabeth City Railroad; but after 
leaving the metropolis of the east side as a terminus, by 
continuing to Edenton, and thus finding herself in- 
creased in mileage and the two appendages which natu- 
rally follow — greater power and more usefulness — they 
concluded that they should be known by a stronger 
sounding name, the one selected being the present, which 
makes no mention of Elizabeth City. This provoked 
her citizens, and among them (far in the lead) was that 
stalwart champion of the sounds, or, as his friends 
fondly term him, '4he great Democratic War-horse of 
Eastern Carolina"— Colonel Creecy, the editor of the 
Economist. So gallantly did he fight them in his excel- 
lent journal, and so thoroughly did the people appreci- 
ate his efforts, that they not only presented him with a 
gold-headed cane, but also gave his name to the prettiest 
park in the great North State. 

The war is now happily over, for the railroad com- 
pany, by furnishing a most excellent service and im- 
proving its magnificent water-front, has redeemed itself 
and once again has come into favor with the Colonel and 
the other citizens. 

The city is divided into two parts which appear as 
distinct and unlike as if there was a hundred miles of 
space between them. This difference may not be as 
perceptible to the citizen, but is so marked that it is 



SOUND AND RIVEK CITIES OF N. C. 131 

noticed by nearly every traveler. The lower is known as 

THE WATER, 

for the reason that it borders upon the river. Its lead- 
ing streets are Water, Fearing and the lower end of 
Main. Water street is the shortest of the three, but it 
contains the heaviest mercantile establishments and most 
durable business buildings in the city. 

MAIN STREET 

begins at the river front, and any one viewing the Pas- 
quotank from its wharf, I care not how much he has 
traveled, unless he has well studied and mapped in his 
mind the geographical features of the city and its spa- 
cious water approach, is apt to think that he is overlook- 
ing some bay having immediate connection with an 
ocean instead of standing on the banks of a river. The 
street is a pretty blending of business houses and resi- 
dences ; it is broad and well shaded by lofty elms. 
From the river front for two blocks it is lined w ith solid, 
well constructed brick business houses, then the elms 
begin and the street loses its city-like appearance, look- 
ing more like the main thoroughfare of the staid seat of 
a wealthy agricultural county. The effect is very pleas- 
ing as the visitor walks under the shade of the monster 
trees past the stately court-house, magnificent residences 
surrounded with green lawns, and the hospitable looking 
hotel. This handsome avenue, as I have before noted, 
has many changes in its great length, but there are two 
things it does not lose : its generous width and gracious 
shade. 



132 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

The older or upper part of the city gives every evi- 
dence of having once been the most important, and 

ROAD STREET, 

its main thorougiifare, in spite of a number of dilapi- 
dated buildings, still looks substantial, and is also a 
pleasant street to walk through and reflect upon the 
"ups and downs" in the history of a city's streets, for 
this thoroughfare, judging by the appearance of its 
buildings, must have been the centre of trade before 
Water street, with its many handsome store-houses, was 
thought of The greatest relic left to show its former 
grandeur is 



built in the ante-bellum days, its somber Tuscan colo- 
nade supporting two platforms, one serving as a veranda 
for the second and the other for the attic story, which 
is faced by a huge fire- wall evidently made to take the 
place of the missing pediment. The building has a very 
peculiar, lonesome appearance, and if situated in Cali- 
fornia would readily be taken for a Jesuit Mission 
church. 

A ramble through the streets of the city convinced 
me that the Pasquotank beauty will compare favorably, 
in the appearance and substantial nature of her build- 
ings, with any city in North Carolina. The business 
houses are nearly all of brick, with well-designed fronts. 
The residences, it is true, are mainly of more perishable 
material, but there are two of brick which deserve spe- 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 1^3 

cial mention. One of them is on Main street, nearly 
opposite the court-house, and is owned by the 

EDITOR OF A NEWSPAPER. 

I am satisfied a smile expressing incredibility will play 
on the visage of any journalist that may read this, and 
I do not know that it will entirely disappear when I say 
that this gentleman is also a successful practicing attor- 
ney; but I am quite sure that it will vanish like feath- 
ers before a cyclone when I say that lie owns a valuable 
ferry franchise, which enables outside Pasquotankers to 
come to Elizabeth City without following the example 
set by the frogs and jumping across the riv^er. 

The other is a more modern study and is owned by a 
prominent member of the North Carolina Bar, who is 
also one of the gentlemen who comprise the shell-fish 
commission of the bivalve-margined coast of the great 
North State. 

The churches are all neat and well-cared- for, but I 
am sorry to say that there are only two that are built of 
enduring material : one belongs to the Episcopal and 
the other to the Methodist denomination. A neat tower, 
finished with battlements, is the special feature of the 
former and a Doric porch of the latter. 

By far the handsomest structure in the city is 

THE COURT-HOUSE. 

It stands in the centre of a beautiful lawn which occu- 
pies a large square and is well inclosed with a neat iron 
railing. The building is the leading architectural fea- 



134 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

ture of both town and judicial district. In fact, in ex- 
terior effect and surroundings it can well be classed as 
the finest judicial building in the Commonwealth, and 
in interior embellishments it is only surpassed by one 
^New Bern). It is built of brick, heavily trimmed with 
granite. Four rustic, stone-faced piei-s stand out in full 
relief from the first story of the building and hold a 
substantial granite platform, from which spring four 
columns, which, unfortunately, are the great- defect of 
the building, on account of being severely plain w^hen 
they should be fluted to correspond with the capitals, 
which are Corinthian, thus giving the impression that 
the building committee had exhausted their funds before 
the edifice was completed. These columns support the 
pediment, which contains a large granite slab with the 
date of construction (1882), and from the roof rises a 
well-designed and substantial cupalo, which contains a 
fine clock and bell, towering above all surroundings. 

The Albemarle Hotel ranks among; the laro-est hotel 
buildings in the State. Its imposing brick fronts, pierced 
by many windows, add much to the appearance of both 
Main and Broad streets. 

Among the many attractions that Elizabeth City 
affords I found 



which are well situated as well as very accessible, the main 
or grand entrance being a few feet from an improvised 
depot of the Norfolk Southern road. It has good build- 
ings for exhibition purposes and ample stabling facilities, 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 135 

but its chief feature is its speeding track, which is rolled 
to such a nicety and kept in such perfect condition that 
it is criticised as being one of the "fastest^' on the South 
Atlantic seaboard. 

During a late visit to the city I concluded to take a 
drive to far-famed 

CREECY PARK, 

which I found contains about thirty acres of land and 
water, which nature has done a great deal for, and its 
primary attractions are being continilally added to by 
well planned scenic, landscape and floral additions. It 
is well situated upon the banks of the majestic Pasquo- 
tank, which forms a most attractive and well sheltered 
harbor, and being a tidal stream it naturally affords 
every advantage for the location of bath-houses. A good 
depth of water a few feet out, reached by a well con- 
structed wharf, gives superb facilities for the transporta- 
tion of passengers brought by steam-boats and other 
craft. , 

Its present attractions are a great diversity in physical 
features with which nature first adorned it, and which 
consist of valley, glade and hill covered with an abun- 
dance of luxuriant grasses and shaded by thirty-two 
species of trees, and a remarkably well stocked fish-pond 
dotted with picturesque islands and bounded by cosy 
nooks and neat projecting headlands, while water-lilies 
dance on its mirrored surface, and rush and reed waft 
lazily with the breeze. Many birds, as if aware of the 
safety extended them by the land being posted, make the 



136 ^ SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

undergrowth their home and their cheery chirping, com- 
bined with the sighing of the trees and murmur of the 
waters, form a blending of pleasing sounds which it 
would be hard to duplicate. 

Elizabeth City, in spite of tlie fact that the shores of 
the river do not abound in bluffs and other elevations, 
affords some beautiful scenery, and there is no better 
place to get a view of 

THE BROAD PASQUOTANK 

as it sweeps past its water-front than the doorway of the 
Falcon office. Being on the second floor, it has the 
proper elevation and the door acts as a frame, making it 
look like a magnificent painting by Raphael; that is, if 
Raphael had made the specialty of his life marine paint- 
ing, and could imitate nature in her endless variety of 
color, the perpetual motion of the water and the glisten- 
ing diamonds caused by the sun's reflection or the dim- 
mer sparks for which the moon is responsible. 

The deep basin of the ample harbor I could entirely 
overlook. To the left as w^ell as the immediate front 
the shipping, although limited to steam-boats, schooners 
and sloops, was interesting, while to the right I could see 
busy factories and residences embowered in trees. A 
powerful marine glass, kindly lent me by a gentleman 
connected with the Falcon, reduced the ten miles of 
water to the fraction of one and showed me plainly the 
lonesome looking banks of the opposite shore, and 
revealed, to my surprise, a number of mills with large 
sweeping arms, taking advantage of the same wind that 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 137 

was propelling the maoy sail-boats through the interven- 
ing waters and forcing the smoke of an incoming reve- 
nue cutter to make a desperate endeavor to reach the 
sky. 

THE MERCANTILE AND MANUFACTURING INTERESTS 
OF ELIZABETH CITY. 

Present population, nearly 4,000; raih'oad, Norfolk 
Southern ; steamboat lines, Norfolk Southern and Old 
Dominion; manufacturing, lumber, cotton seed oil, 
twine, carriages, brick, etc. Other interests, cotton and 
fish. 

The* following is a list of the majority of the leading 
and reliable business houses of Elizabeth City on Janu- 
ary 1st, 1888: 

Commission, Cotton^ Produce, &c. 
K. R. Newbold. 

Drugs, Seeds, Cigars, &g. 
Dr. W. W. Griggs. 

Dry Goods, Clothing, &c. 
Jacob Salomonsky. 

Furniture ( Wholesale and Retail). 

C. W. Overman. 

Groceries ( Wholesale and Retail). 

D. B. Bradford & Co. 
J. B. Flora. 

Harrison & Nash, cor. Water and Fearing streets. 
J. P. Hughes, 29 and 30 Main street. 



138 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

Groceries and Confectioneries. 

C. W. StevenS; Main street, near Water. 

C. A. Jackson, cor. Road and Fearing streets. 

Hardware, Furniture, Windows and Doors. 
John L. Sawyer. 

Insurance. 
George M. Scott. 

Jeweler. 

Louis Selig, Water street. 

F. M. Cook. 

Junk. 
W. C. Glover, Fearing street. 

Liquor ( Wholesale and, Retail). 
J. B. Brocket. 

Livery and Sale Stables. 
A. L. Jones. (See advertisement). 

Manufacturers. 
C. C. Allen, Press, Ee-press and Fancy Cornice 
Bricks. 

Fowler's Net and Twine Factory. 
J. F. Sanders, Carriages, Buggies, Road Carts. (See 
advertisement). 

Joseph Salomonsky, Ginger Ale, Soda and Mineral 
Waters. (See advertisement). 

G. W. Bell, Gun and Locksmith, Dealer in Sporting 
Goods. 

Currier, Burroughs & Co., Sails, Awnings and Flags. 
H. O. Hill, Tinware, Roofing and Guttering. Fear- 
ing street. 

R. Madrin, Cabinet Maker and Undertaker. 
J. W. T. Smith. Rubber Stamps and Painter. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 139 

Merchant Tailors. 
Edward G. Schirmon, Fearing street. 
Maurice Wescott, Main street. 

Milk and Dairy Products. 
C. B. Brothers, Road street. 

Photographer. 
H. Murphy, Road street. 

Sewing Machines. 
C. M. Aldersou, Fearing street. 
Undertaker. 
John H. Ziegler. (See advertisement). 



HERTFORD, N. C. 

The first permanent settlement in the State of North 
Carolina was made at Durant's Neck on the Perquimans 
river, and in what is now known as Perquimans county. 
This I assert in spite of historians who persist in saying 
that the first settlement was made on the banks of the 
Roanoke river, when they should know that every ante- 
Revolutionary deed and record show that Albemarle 
Sound was formerly called Roanoke Sound, and that all 
transfers of real estate in the adjacent section were des- 
ignated as being near the waters of the Roanoke, and 
that the undeniable fact stares them in the face that the 
first deed written and recorded in what is now the State 
of North Carolina was in this county and the land in 
question part of its area. 



140 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

Perquimans is not, as a great many believe, the name 
of aD Indian tribe who once inhabited this section, but 
means the land of pretty women. It was so named 
because of the many pretty Indian maidens that once 
inhabited this section; and every one who has been 
favored with a look at the fair faces of the fairer com- 
plexioned ladies that inhabit this same locality at the 
present time will readily admit that the name of the 
county should not be changed. It is also written that 
the Yeopim tribe of Indians, whose headquarters were 
less than a mile from the court-house, were as much no- 
ted for their iutelh'gence as the maidens were for their 
beauty, and I am happy to bear witness to the fact that 
the male population have held their own as well as the 
female, for this little village of seven hundred popula- 
tion has actually for several years furnished the member 
of Congress for this Congressional District, containing 
one hundred and fifty-four thousand inhabitants, and at 
the same time the Solicitor. They are eloquent Tom 
Skinner and logical Jack Blount. 

And this is not all, for when the State concluded to 
organize a college to teach the rising generation how best 
to tickle the soil for a crop, they naturally looked about 
for a superintendent, and when their eyes rested upon 
the map of Perquimans county they looked no further, 
but immediately made a requisition upon Hertford, and 
Mr. J. Skinner was brought to the front. 

The majority of people evidently believe that there is 
very little to be seen in Hertford ; and the most studious 
and observing commercial traveler shares in this belief. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 141 

As for myself, I certainly had no idea that there was so 
much to interest within its boundaries until I strolled 
forth in quest of subject-matter for its part in these 
pages. 

Hertford being a county-seat, I naturally first walked 
to the 

COURT-HOUSE, 

a substantial brick structure, which stands in the centre 
of a grassy, elm-shaded lot that covers an entire block. 
It was built during the war of 1812, and in the Register's 
office I was shown the record of the oldest deed in the 
State. It was originally made out in 1 661 and registered 
in 1716. It deeded to George Durant a large tract of 
land at what is now known as Durant's Neck. Kilcaca- 
new, king of the Yeopim Indians, made the transfer, 
as his name, further guaranteed by his red majesty's royal 
seal (which consisted of a very poor drawing of a bow 
and arrow in very black ink), attested. 

After feasting my eyes for some time on the facsimile 
of the artistic work of the dusky king of the Yeopims, 
and looking at more musty records, I strolled further 
down Main street to the Episcopal church, which is an 
old wooden shed that did not repay my visit, but in the 
church-yard that surrounds it and runs back to where 
the bank slopes tovvards the Perquimans I found con- 
siderable to interest me. The handsomely embellished 
monument which is erected over the grave of Mrs. Eliza- 
beth Ann Bunch is a very nicely executed study, and 
the stone to the memory of Mary Catherine, the infant 



142 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

daughter of Dr. N. G. Skinner, shows that, in the hands 
of a proper artist, even a small stone can become a gem. 
After leaving this little grave-yard, which is also situ- 
ated on Main street, I concluded to walk up to Church 
street and look at the architectural pride of the village, 

THE BAPTIST CHURCH. 

It stands upon a nicely turfed, artistical mound, created 
for that purpose. It is built of brick and has a solid, 
substantial appearance, which justifies what is claimed 
for it — that it is the best building in the county. 

At the back of this edifice and^the extreme end of the 
mound I found, to my surprise, two treasures in the form 
of storied marble. I say surprise, because I have often 
visited Hertford and never heard of their existence before. 
One of these monuments (that erected to the memory 
of Mrs. Mary Felton) would attract attention anywhere. 
It is in the decorated Gothic style, upon a high base 
formed of three receding blocks of marble upon which 
rest four handsomely capped columns which support a 
canopy, and from its leaf-decorated roof springs a Gothic 
steeple. Under this canopy is the figure of a woman in 
classic robes resting upon an urn which stands upon a 
pedestal. The pose of the statue is easy and life-like, 
and the monument, as a whole, ranks among the best in 
the State. The other memorial stands by its side and 
does not rank with the one just described as a work of 
art, but is so much over the average marble that deco- 
rates the country church-yards that it would readily 
attract attention. It is composed, first, of a solid gran- 



SOUND AND RIVEK CITIES OF N. C. 143 

ite base; upon this stands the body of the monument, 
composed of four parts, all differently embellished with- 
out destroying the general harmony; then an obelisk 
capped by a draped urn and covered with a stone, upon 
w^hich stands that well-known emblem of love, the dove, 
cut in spotless marble. They are enclosed with an appro- 
priate iron railing with lambs resting under weeping 
willows for panels. Why these monuments are thus 
literally secreted is more than I can see, and why the 
indications of a superior taste, a love of art among the 
people, and that art lovingly placed by affectionate hands 
over the graves of deceased relatives, should be thus hid- 
den from observation is more than I can explain. Some 
may account for it by saying that it would not be in 
good taste, or that it would be considered ostentatious to 
make a display of marble made to commemorate the 
lives of the dead. But if that is the case, what w^as the 
object in cutting them in the first place? Why should 
the skill of the artist be invoked to get them to such 
marvelous perfection unless they were intended to be 
seen? Further, does it not show that the sleepers who 
silently repose under their shadows were loved and appre- 
ciated ? Then why cut day and date and obituaries 
upon enduring stone and then hide them? It may be 
right, but it seems very inconsistent. 

This little town, like the majority of the cities of 
Eastern North Carolina, has the advantage of railroad 
as well as water transportation, as the Norfolk Southern 
road brings its trains to one end of the corporation and 
the deep Perquimans river gives excellent wharfage at 
the other. 



144 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

The following is a classified list of the leading busi- 
ness houses of Hertford on January 1st, 1888: 

Drugs, Paints, Oils. 
Dr. J. H. McMullen. 

Fire and Life Insurance. 

George M. Newby. 
A. Arps. 

General Merchandise. 

T. B. Blanchard & Bro. 

W. T. McMullen & Co. 

Norman Bros. 

W. R. Shannon house. * 

Tobias Baker. 

Livery, Sale and Trade Stables. 

M. H. White. 
T. S. White. 

Manufacturers. 

Toms & McMullen, Carriages, Wagons and Carts. 
J. M. Whedbee, Lumber and Flour. 

School. 

Hertford High, A. M. Simmons, A. B., Principal. 

Undertakers. 

W. F. Stokes, Undertaker and Contractor. 

W. H. Vaughau, Undertaker and Coach-maker. 

Wells {Artesian and others). 
T. D. Saunders. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 145 

EDENTON, 

THE GEM OF THE SOUNDS. 

Note. — I am satisfied that the following description of Edenton 
is familiar to the majority of North Carolinians, as I originally 
wrote it for the Neivs and Observer, Raleigh, and being published in 
that widely circulated journal and copied by a number of other 
State papers, it is natural to suppose that it was very generally read. 
My reason for inserting it here is that no material changes have 
taken place since, and, as a consequence, it tills the bill as well as 
any description that I could give to-day of North Carolina's most 
picturesque city: 

'For her southern boundary, one of the loveliest sheets 
of water on the South Atlantic coast; for her western, 
a sparkling, limpid creek, named in honor of England^s 
stern queen, Elizabeth — a creek whose banks abound in 
sylvan dells and fairy-like nooks, and on whose lazy, 
laughing waters lilies dance in great profusion; for her 
eastern, another sparkling stream, named after another 
of England^s rulers — Queen Ann — which pours its accu- 
mulation of waters by way of pretty Edenton Bay, to 
mix witli the sterner waves of Albemarle Sound. Thus 
favorably situated, you will find Edenton, the county- 
seat of Chowan county, a little city rich in her history, 
wealthy in the retention of her 



and doubly fortunate in her pastoral beauty and pictur- 
esque glimpses of land and water, for from her "city 
wharf" the eye of the spectator overlooks ten miles of 

7 



146 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

Albemarle's silver-ca[)pe(l waves, as it rests upon the 
jxinorama of blue hills which form the opposite shore, 
aud wheu he faces about to gain an inland vista he is 
rewarded with an uninterrupted view of the finest avenue 
in the State, for Main street has been laid out so gener- 
ously that it is wide enough to permit three lines of 
majestic elms to grow, and these have done much toward 
making the town " famous." These trees are led by one 
which is more noticeable by day and doubly attractive 
by .night, for it serves as a light-house by which the 
mariner can with safety navigate his bark into this 
favored port, and as he walks up the shaded '' boulevard " 
he is not disappointed, for one block brings him to 

EDEN PALACE, 

a quaint-looking structure which was framed in England 
and erected upon its })resent site in 1758. Opposite this 
monument of another century stands another old struc- 
ture, in which it is claimed that the ladies of CQlonial 
Edenton gathered and resolved not to drink another cup 
of tea until the tax imposed by Great Britain should be 
repealed. From here he passes a number of fairly con- 
structed modern l)usiness houses and then a number of 
})retty cottages. Here he is once more confronted by a 
relic of anotlier age. This time it is 

"old ST. Paul's '^ church, 

the venerable walls of which are constructed of brick 
imported from l^^ngland many years before the war for 
iudep(!ndence. Tiiis noble edifice is situated in the cen- 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 1.47 

tre of a pretty church-yard, in which repose some of the 
once leading men and women of the State; and that they 
were loved by those that knew them best is wetl attested 
by the many beautiful and attractive monuments that 
mark their last resting-place. 

It is with regret that the stranger turns away from 
this street of quiet beauty, but there is much more to 
been seen in this museum-like little city, and prominent 
among the sights stands 

THE OLD COURT-HOUSE. 

This grand old landmark, which has served as a day 
beacon for the mariner for over a hundred years, not 
only contains, I am informed, the oldest Masonic lodge- 
room in the State, but also the identical chair occupied 
by our illustrious first President when Grand Master. 
Even to the stranger not acquainted with its history this 
building has anything but a commonplace appearance; 
for its present elevation, crowned by a well proportioned 
cupola, has often been pronounced by competent judges 
an architectural study worthy of the place and surround- 
ings; but to him who realizes that it w^as used both as a 
provincial and State capitol building it is a study of still 
more interest. 

In front of this, North Carolina's most historic build- 
ing, is the square laid out by the wise forefathers who 
planned this ideal village for a ''public green." There 
are no studied walks, classic statuary, or murmuring 
fountains in this little park, but the grass looks a 



148 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

brighter green than that further inland, and an air of 
quiet and peace prevails which readily turns one into 



and as he looks out upon the magnificent stretch of 
water which lies at his feet, he cannot help but think 
that he is standing upon the ^' stretch ^^ where the 
ancient fishermen "were wont" to repair their nets, and 
as the shades of eve dim the outlines of the distant hills 
and nearer court-house, fantastic shapes which assume 
the forms of people of another age seem to arise, and he 
can easily imagine that he has drifted back to the pow- 
dered wigs and knee-breeches of the Colonial age. 

This town is also happy in her hotel accommodations, 
the tourist having the choice of two well-kept taverns. 
The oldest is known as the Woodward House, and enjoys 
the enviable reputation of having been an inn since 
1750, and the still more enviable reputation of having 
always been well-kept. The other hotel, known as the 
Bay View, is a more modern structure, but covers every 
inch of the site of the Kings Arms, an ancient tavern 
of an^e-llevolutionary reputation. 

Thus beautifully situated between her two queenly 
named creeks, Edenton, as calmly as 

HER PEERLESS BAY 

in fair weather, rolls year after year into the immeas- 
urable depth of time, with nothing to disturb her equa- 
nimity except when the death of some distinguished or 
loved citizen is announced. But this only causes a gen- 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 149 

tie ripple, for the religious and good people conteut 
themselves by saying, "It Is as He who made us all 
willed it." The body with solemn ceremony is en- 
tombed, and the city of the dead, so solemnly situated 
around the staunch walls of ''old St. Paul's" church, 
increases at the expense of living Edenton. 

Some may say that it is too bad that capital and en- 
terprise do not find their way into its time-honored 
boundaries, but I think in this case the hand of the 
usual improvement would be unfortunate, for what mod- 
ern store-house placed on its site could cope in interest 
or attraction for the stranger with the cupola-ca|)ped 
palace of Royal Governor Eden? What stately court- 
house, built since its erection, could we have the same 
affection for as 

THE OLD PILE 

from whose doorway the stentorian voices of court-cri- 
ers have been heard for a hundred years as they sum- 
moned jurors and witnesses before judges too numerous 
to mention? And lastly, what modern ecclesiastical 
structure could compare with St. Paul's as it stands; its 
aged walls colored "as time only can color," like a sen- 
tinel over the dead, and giving consolation to the living? 
For these reasons I reiterate that what would improve 
this pla(*e, in the general acceptation of the term, would 
be a misfortune to both State and nation. Then let us 
hope that the moss-covered roofs and noble elms will 
long survive, and that in the future, as in the past, the 
very brightest star in North Carolina's brilliant constel- 
lation of historic towns and cities will be Edenton, the 
gem of the sounds. 



150 sound and river cities of n. c. 

edenton's business interests and business men. 

Population, about 1,600; leading business interests, 
jnercantile and fishing; railroad, Norfolk Southern; 
steam-boat lines, Norfolk Southern Railroad Company's 
boat and the ''Chowan" to Franklin, Va. 

The following is a classified list of Edenton's most 
energetic and enterprising business establishments and 
leaders in their respective lines on January 1st, 1888 : 

Banker. 
J. R. B. Hathaway. 

Drugs. 
Hooper & Co. 
Dr. W. J. Leary. 

Dentists [Surgical (tnd Mechanical). 
Dr. C. P. Bogart. 

Dry Goods and Clothing. 
L. Levy, Dillon Building. 
O. Newman, Perkins' old stand. 

Fish Shipping Establishments. 
Shej)ard, Goodwin & Co. 
W. D. Rea. 
John C. Bond. 
W. L. Arendell & Co. 

General Merchandise. 
J. E. Bonner. 
E. B. Mitchell. 

Groceries. 
M. H. Dixon. 
A. T. Bush. 

Hotels. 

Woodward House, John L. Rogerson. 
Bay View, T. A. White, Proprietor. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF X. C. 151 

Manufactories. 
Baker & Son, Coach- makers. 
C. M. Murden, Harness-maker and Saddler. 

Shoes (iiid GentJemen''s FurmsJihif/ (roods. 
J. C. Sharp. 

Undertakers. 
C. M. Murden. 
L. F. Zieji'ler, Undertaker and Cal)inet-njaker. 



PLYMOUTH, N. C, 

TPIE BATTLE-SCARRED TOWN OF THE ROANOKE. 

There is no town or city in the United States that 
sliows more scars of war than Plymoutli, X. C. Every 
few steps within the business portion brought me to 
excavations and low stone walls which but too })lainly 
^how that they were formerly cellars and foundations to 
buildings that have passed into smoke, ashes and history. 
Its war record is indeed strange. Being considered a 
great strategic point I)y the Federals as well as the Con- 
federates, every effort was made by them to capture it; 
as a consequence, it was at different times in the hands of 
the armies and navies of both the contendino: jjovern- 
ments, and, as if that was not sufficient, when they were 
gone it was robbed by desperate Buffaloes and ])lundered 
by rollicking Guerillas. 

It was here that a Federal naval lieutenant, accom- 
panied by a number of desperate men, shattered the 
hopes of this section of the Confederacy by shattering 
the iron sides of the Confederate ram Albemarle, 



152 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

through the agency of a powerful torpedo, while she 
was quietly lying at the wharf to be in readiness to keep 
back the Federal fleet, and sending her to the bottom of 
the Roanoke, thus throwing tliat historic stream open to 
the invaders. 

Under these trying circumstances, it is not surprising 
to hear that when the dark clouds of civil strife were 
dispelled and ever welcome j)eace was making every 
effort to unite the severed cords of fraternity which once 
bound and united us as a nation, that when his search- 
ing rays fell upon the banks of the winding Roanoke, 
he found where beautiful Plymouth once stood nothing 
but ghostly-looking brick chimneys and stone founda- 
tions which could not burn. It was so thoroughly 
ruined and devastated that only one structure remained 
— the unfinished Episcopal church. But no armies or 
fires could rob her of wiiat nature gave her — her splen- 
did situation for trade and manufacture. Nearly two 
thousand people, at the present time, find occupation 
and pleasant homes in this, the county-seat of Washing- 
ton county. 

GRACE EPISCOPAL CHURCH 

is the only notable building in the town. It is of the 
early English type and unlike any other structure in the 
State; it has a decidedly aged appearance and would 
easily be mistaken for one of the venerable ecclesiastic 
edifices built by the Established Church before the Revo- 
lution. This, however, is not the case, for the corner- 
stone was laid in 1860, and as the conflict between the 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 153 

States coranieiiced that year it stood uufinished until the 
war was over. In the venerable church-yard that sur- 
rounds this structure, and antedates it by many years, 
are a number of quaint tombstones, and on the south end 
is a very heavy and well constructed granite vault worthy 
of notice. 

The town is full of legends of 

BURIED WEALTH. 

Black Beard, the notorious pirate who made Plymouth 
a frequent resort, it was generally presumed, buried a 
great deal of his quickly acquired wealth within the 
limits of the town to keep it from being as quickly lost; 
and about the time that everybody concluded it was 
buried beyond all hopes of being found the Civil War 
came, and with it not alone the army, but also more 
reports of secreted treasures. Among the many stories 
of this nature, and the one most generally believed, is 
that a sutler who sold the Federal army very few goods 
for a great deal of money, fearing that the soldiers would 
sometime raid his premises, concluded to secrete his gains 
in the quaint old grave-yard, and before he found use for 
it or thought it wise to recover it, he was taken sick, died 
and was also consigned to a grave-yard. This led 
to one of the most stirring episodes connected with 
the history of this historic town. Two gentlemen, 
well knowm as able jurists and statesmen, concluded 
that they had discovered a clue to the whereabouts 
of the sutler's buried treasure, and naturally con- 
cluding that it was doing no good where it was, and if 



154 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

brought to light might be made useful, with the assist- 
ance of a mate of a steam-boat which made Plymouth 
oue of its landings, organized themselves into an expe- 
dition for the special purpose of unearthing this treasure, 
which they had reason to believe was buried in a part 
of Grace church-yard which at that time was not used 
for cemetery purposes. The night selected was dark 
and dismal, and as they w^alked down to this resting- 
place of the dead and alleged safe of the sutler, the only 
way they could keep up their spirits was by reflecting 
what a vast amount of good the money, now useless, 
would do by relieving the wants of the poor and dis- 
tressed, and educating worthy fatherless children; and, 
to their credit, be it said, that each made a firm resolve 
that half of the restored wealth should be used for these 
purposes. No time was lost, for as soon as they reached 
the little cemetery the digging commenced. It must 
have been a weird scene; the light (all that could be 
forced from an ordinary stable lantern) had just suffi- 
cient illuminating power to shed a faint, ghastly glim- 
mer on the time-honored tombstones and vaults, a fitting 
one, however, to act as an accompaniment to the dull 
but continued thuds of the pick. It is generally believed 
that the same dim substitute for the sun never had its 
rays forced back by the reflecting force of the sutler's 
hoarded gold. But this appears to be the only effort in 
which this party has ever been unsuccessful; for one of 
these gentlemen has been Governor of the great North 
State, is loved by all her people, and to-day worthily 
represents the greatest nation on earth (ours) at an 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 155 

imperial court, vested with iiDlimited power, as the rank 
Minister Plenipotentiary signifies. The other is also well 
loved and trusted by the people, for having represented 
his District in Congress once, his constituents urged him 
to accept the position again, and his return by an over- 
whelming majority proved his popularity. As for the 
mate, the last time I heard of him he was still treading 
the deck of a steamer that displaces the waters of Chesa- 
peake Bay, the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal and 
legendary Roanoke river. 



Transportation, Norfolk Southern Kail road Com- 
pany's steam-boats, C'ashie Navigation Coujpany and the 
"Chowan'^; leading interests, lumber, manufacturing, 
fisliing and mercantile. 

The following list embraces Plymoutli's most ener- 
getic and enterprising business houses on January 1st, 

1888: 

Druf/glsts and Fhannacists. 

B. F. Butler. 
Robertson & Bryan. 

Dentist. 

A. Mathews, D. D. S. 

General llerchandise. 
Sherwood & Newberry. 
E. A. Carter & Co. 
M. J. Norman & Co. 
M. J. Bunch. 

Livery and Sale Stables. 
Joseph Skittletharpe. 
Samuel Bayuor. 



156 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

Manufa ctories. 
Boyle & Lehman, Lumber. 
Perry Machine Works. 
H. Peal, Carriage. 
George R. Batenian, Carriage and Coach. 



WINDSOR, N. C. 

Windsor, the county-seat of Bertie county, contains 
about ei«:iit hundred inhabitants, and is situated at the 
liead of navigation of the Cashie, a very narrow, very 
crooked, but very deep tributary of the Roanoke. It 
was founded in 1722, the site being given by an enter- 
prising planter with tfie stipulation that it should "for- 
ever be used as a town." 

The main thoroughfare, King street, is well shaded 
by large elms, which form so perfect an arch that ti»e 
sun has little chance to throw her rays upon any part of 
it. It is pleasant to stand upon the deck of the steamer 
'' Bertie" on a spring morning and look through tiiis green 
tunnel nearly a mile in length. One line of steamers, 
the Cashie Navigation Company, bring passengers and 
freight to her wharf daily; and a number of other 
steam-boats that make irregular trips tie up at her land- 
ings. 

THE NEW COURT-HOUSE 

now under construction, the material brick and stone, 
promises to be a structure worthy of both town and 
county. It replaces a building that antedated the Revo- 



SOUND AXD RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 157 

iution, and standing in a well-shaded square will, when 
completed, make a handsome appearance. 

The following are Windsor's principal business houses : 

General Merchan dise. 
J. P. Rascoe & Son. 
J. B. Xichols. 
R. G. Razemore. 

Hardware and Agricultural Imjylemenfs. 
J. J. Jacocks. 

Jeweler, Watchmaker and Photographer, 

C. T. Harden. 

Manufactories. 
P. Rascoe, Hubs, Spokes, Sawed Lumber, &c.. 
R. W. Goode & Sun, Lumber. 
R. H. Small, Lumberman. 
E. S; Dail, Garriage, Wagon, and Undertaker. 

T7'ansportation Line. 
Cashie Steam Navigation Gompany. 



GATESYILLE, N. G. 

The merchants of Gatesville, the county-seat of Gates 
county, are no longer compelled to haul their goods over 
the three miles of "corduroy" which is the only road 
that connects it with Gates Landing or the Ghowan 
river, and is very generally conceded the worst piece of 
road in America, for more involuntary tall and lofty 
tumbling has been done upon it, and more swearing 
indulged in by passengers who have been so nnfortunate 



158 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

as to be compelled to take it, than any other three miles 
in the world. But, as I have before stated, It is no longer 
necessary for the patient and long-suffering merchants of 
Gatesville to have their crockery, glassware and other 
easily broken merchandise smashed into shapeless frag- 
ments, for a deep navigable creek which forms one of 
the boundaries of the town has its waters stirred up 
several times a week by the propellers of freight-carry- 
ing steam-boats. 

The material improvements of the town consist first 
of a neat Episcopal church surrounded by a well-shaded 
yard. In this connection, I will say that there are two 
more churches, the Baptist and Methodist, both well 
supported, but the buiklings are of w'ood. The next is 
the solid, substantial court-house of brick faced with 
granite, built in 1863. Its doorway is shaded by two 
lofty elms, and in a little square in front stands the pub- 
lic well, always abundant in cool water. It looks 
exceedingly refreshing on a warm coui't day to see its 
long sweep continually going up in the air, its reach 
down into the well, and then reverse and come forth 
witli the oaken bucket filled and running over with the 
purest of beverages. Nature's great invigorator — limpid, 
sparkling water. 

Gatesville contains about 300 inhabitants, and the fol- 
lowing list gives its leading business houses on January 
1st, 1888: 

Drugs, Seeds, Cigars, &c. 
C. D. Bell, M. D. 
A. E,. Roberts. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 159 

General Merchandise. 
W. R. Haves & Co. 
R. B. G. Cowper. 
T. E. Cross. 
R. M. Riddick. 
C. W. Cross & Co. 

Hotel and Livery. 
United States, T. E. Hayes, Proprietor. 

Manufactories. 
W. H. Edwards, Carriages, Wagons, Carts, and 
Undertaking. 

W. H. Standin, Carriages, Buggies, Carts, and Under- 
taking. 

Real Estate. 
John Brady. 



WINTON, N. C. 

Wide, straight and well laid out are <^he streets of 
Winton. They cross at right angles and are well situated 
upon an elevated plain, high and dry above the Chowan 
river. This plateau being perfectly level and easily 
drained, makes a magnificent town site. The present 
population is about 500. Its main street is nearly a 
hundred feet wide, and its present buildings of note are 
a well designed court-house, consisting of a two-story 
brick centre crowned by a cupola and flanked by two 
wings, the most picturesque as well as substantial 
looking jail in Eastern North Carolina, a brick Masonic 
Hall, stuccoed to imitate stone, and a fine residence of 
the same material. 



IGO SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

The following is a list of the leading business men of 
Winton on January 1st, 1888: 

General Merchandise. 
Shaw Bros. 
Mathews '& Bro. 
Mitchell & Askew. 
E. W. Mitchell. 

Insurance {Fire, Marine, Life and Live Stock). 
W. J. Snaith, Agent. 

Beal Estate Brokers. 
Anderson & An much. 



PART SECOND. 



NEW BERN, 

THE ELM-SHADED CITY OF THE NEUSE. 

In rugged, hilly Person county, near the Virginia 
border, the Neuse under another name first leaves mother 
earth for its race to the sea. After gaining a little 
strength he thinks he is strong enough to smoke his first 
cigar, pipe, or both, as he takes a straiglit course for 
tobacco-famed Durham county, and, after crossing it col- 
lects all the strength, in the form of tributaries, that he 
can in Wake, Johnston, Wayne, Lenoir and Craven to 
the point where he stands out boldly as one of the lead- 
ing figures in this descriptive sketch. For one hundred 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 161 

miles, as Dear as careful calculation can make it, the 
Trent, born in fair Duplin, forces its way like an enam- 
ored maiden throuo-h Jones countv, and after reaching; 
Craven at the point before mentioned, as if tired of be- 
ing single, makes all possible haste to throw herself into 
the strong embraces of the more powerful Neuse. 

On the land washed by these streams at their meeting, 
as if intended for an eternal witness of this union, 
and to see that nothing shall them ever sever, stands 
fair, elm-shaded New Bern, which was founded in 1710 
by that mysterious figure in North Carolina's early 
history, 

CAVALIER DE GRAFFENREID, 

who, getting tired of such simple amusements as court- 
ing the Queen of England and other ladies, fighting 
duels and waltzing giddily over the waxed floors of 
London's palaces, left all the luxuries of Queen Ann's 
British Court for the forests and all the privations that 
awaited him in the ^ wilds of North America. After be- 
ing captured by Indians and sentenced to death he was 
released by posing as a king, the Indians evidently hav- 
ing more respect for royalty than Nihilists have for 
Czars. 

This episode, coupled with some minor troubles, was 
sufficient to show the gallant Baron that life was attended 
(at that time) with more pleasure in Europe than 
America, for he retraced his course and left ''New Bern," 
North Carolinn, for his native city, old "Bern," in the 
mountains of Switzerland. 



162 SOUND AND RIVEE CITIES OF N. C. 

Nearly all 

THE STREETS OF NEW BERN 

cross at right augles and, on account of the great variety 
of architectural styles invoked to shape its buildings, 
the beautiful grounds that surround its dwellings, the 
well-shaded and well-cared-for roadways (which form a 
splendid combination of shelled driv^es), interest and de- 
light the stranger. 

The two principal business streets are Middle and 
Pollock. The first gives frontage on its lower end to 
prominent business houses and the upper to fine resi- 
dences, while Pollock has for its centre some of the 
leading l)usiness houses of the city, and the ends are 
faced with neat dwellings. But, to me, the street to 
recall the past and give all the links in 

NEW Bern's chain of time 

is Front. It commences at the east, amid a number of 
busy, buzzing saw-mills, and then follows all the varia- 
tions of the eccentric Neuse. At the corner of Union 
a number of old but substantial, solid brick structures 
are brought to view, which not only enable the stran- 
ger to form an idea of the homes of the leading town 
class in the South before the war between the States, but 
also show that she had good mechanics as well as great 
statesmen, merchants and planters in those days, for 
these buildings were put there to stay, and their present 
condition gives evidence that they did not disappoint 
their builders. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 163 

A short distance from here I fouDcl a pretty parkway, 
the land side bordered l)y handsome residences, sur- 
rounded by green lawns, trees and shrubs, while on the 
other flows the Neuse, which here is very broad, and 
the great length of the river plainly visible with- 
out any interruption (for, like the sea, it is here lost in 
space), combined with the projecting headlands clothed 
in verdure, and the peculiar color of the water, make a 
beautiful picture. 

The shores of this pretty esplanade are kept from 
washing by a substantial sea-wall, and three lines of 
trees shade it. A few dollars well expended in rustic 
seats and other embellishments would make this one of 
the most beautiful spots in the eastern counties of the 
State. 

A short walk from here (on Front, corner Middle) 
brought me to what may well be termed the greatest 

ARCHITECTURAL CURIOSITY 

in the South. It is formed of two of New Bern's old- 
est brick buildings (one has done duty as a jail), trans- 
formed into such a remarkable combination and blend- 
ing of dormers, balconies, pinnacles, fantastic-looking 
tower, railings, human, griffin and dog heads as to make 
it a veritable architectural puzzle. No one knows what 
it is intended for, and the owner, evidently believing it 
nobody's business, has failed to enlighten them. 

In reviewing the city's stateliest buildings I must give 
a leading place to 



164 SOUND AND EIVER CITIES OP N. C. 

CRAVEN COUNTY COURT-HOUSE, 

which is coDcecled by all to have the fioest interior of 
auy judicial structure in the State, aud quite a number 
of the Judges who have seen the niuety-six that adorn 
the counties of the Commonwealth think its exterior 
also ranks first. It is indeed an imposing edifice of 
brick, stone and iron, covered with a many- colored 
slate mansard, and a large square tower with a place for 
a town clock adds greatly to the beauty of the struc- 
ture. New Bern has 

TWO CHURCHES 

which are particularly noticeable. The Episcopal, which 
has a commanding situation aud is surrounded by a 
large and well-cared-for church-yard, and faces on two 
of her best streets, is without a doubt the most impos- 
ing ecclesiastical structure in the sound districts of North 
Carolina. It is of brick, aud its front elevation is re- 
lieved by an ornamental memorial porch, which, unfor- 
tunately, is too low to conform consistently Vv^ith the 
main edifice; but its greatest feature is its tall, massive 
tower, from which springs a well proportioned steeple, 
which is surmount€Hl by a metal crown that looks like 
gold in the sunshine, and can be seen by the mariner 
many miles away as he sails in from the sea. 

The Baptist is the only other brick church in the 
city. It is in the English mediaeval style, with h^avy. 
tower and battlements, and its substantial walls, with 
ivy clinging to them, do much towards beautifying Mid- 
dle street. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF X. C. 165 

The well-siiaded campus of the 

NEW BERN ACADEMY 

has that attractive aad cool appearance which is noticed 
about the grounds of Harvard and Yale, and the air 
al)out it seems just as mucli loaded with literature. The 
old, venerable building (which looks as if it might have 
been put there to enter into a contest against time with 
Tryon^s palace), the new^ one with its Latin inscription, 
the many elms and green grass, all combine to produce 
this desired effect. 

The most interesting building now standing in New 
Bern is one of the wings of 



It is not remarkable on account of grandeur, ornamen- 
tation or size, but because it is the most historical struc- 
ture in the State. Not only was it the palace of Royal 
Governor Tryon, but Washington used it for a stable, 
and after refusing to be reduced to ashes when a colored 
woman succeeded in burning the rest of the structure, 
its stalwart walls so firmly resisted the picks of Federal 
soldiers, wlio during the late w^ar wanted to build chim- 
neys out of its aged brick, that they concluded it would 
be cheaper to buy new ones. 

The stranger who stands and looks at this relic of the 
past should realize that within its modest wails has been 
held the beautiful service of the Episcopal Church; that 
more than a hundred years back its walls echoed with 



166 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

the merry laughter of ladies with powdered wigs as they 
waltzed with gentlemen in knee-breeches over its floors; 
that many times the cheery voices of school-boys have 
been heard within its confines, repeating lessons which 
were to assist them in shaping their future; and the 
neighing of horses belonging to the Continental army. 
But the exterior appearance of Tryon's great palace was 
unquestionably exaggerated. To read the descriptions 
of that date we would expect a creation equal to Solo- 
mon^s Temple and surpassing the existing cathedrals of 
Europe; but it was without doubt the finest building in 
the British I^orth American colonies at the close of 
the Revolutionary war, and the inhabitants can well 
be pardoned for their enthusiasm when we realize that 
in that early period in our nation's history the log-cabin 
was, to a great extent, the residence, and the steepled 
framed church a grand realization. 

As I promised in my preface, I have studiously 
avoided mentioning individual interests at the expense 
of public description, but when private enterprise has 
adorned a city with its greatest building the description 
is not alone pardonable, but necessary, for as much as 
Tryon's gubernatorial palace stood ahead of the log- 
cabin architecture of that period just as far has 

THE tourist's PALACE, "THE ALBERT," 

distanced all the hotel buildings in architecture, deco- 
rating and furnishing that have been created, prior to its 
erection, in the sound and river districts of ^orth Caro- 
lina. Just as much as Tryon's great palace was the 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 167 

boast of New Bern aud New Beruians in the cmte-Kevo- 
Intionaiy period jnst as much is the Hotel Albert, or, 
as some fondly call it, the Royal Albert, their sensation 
at the present day. The exterior, although a very neat 
study in pressed brick, with a noble vestibule flanked 
with niches, and a commanding tower, is no comparison 
to the interior, which is a happy combination of pretty 
vistas, stained glass with its cheering tints, and other 
effects which impress themselves with every step. Its 
public rooms are resplendent with sweeping mirrors, and 
the furniture and carpets show taste and its outgrowth — 
harmony in color. But the architect and decorator ap- 
pear to have concentrated their genius upon the dining- 
room, which is handsomely decorated, gold-framed 
panels being the leading effect. The tower, like every- 
thing else about this structure, bears, the impress of 
solidity and elegance, and is indeed a happy finish to 
this well-designed edifice. Every step that leads to it 
is carpeted, and as much attention has been paid in the 
design and finish of everything, from floor to ceiling, as 
if it was intended for the permanent boudoir of a lady 
instead of a simple outlook (and for that matter, 
in-look), for upon gaining access to this aerial, crystal- 
like point of observation the stranger will fii]d that he 
has the advantage of two views, an interior as well as 
exterior, as a well- designed railing, which looks so sub- 
stantial that it inspires the most timid with confidence, 
stands between him and a plunge of fifty feet. To look 
down this shaft by peeping over the railing is a tempta- 
tion which few can resist before feasting their eyes upon 



168 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

the magnificent panorama that awaits their gaze. To 
the east is the dense green forest of the Pamlico shore, 
washed by the waters of the tireless Neuse; to the north, 
the city's roofs, the sky-line broken by the steeple- 
capped tower of Christ Episcopal church with 

ITS GLISTENING CROWN, 

which in the golden sunlight gives forth rays that can 
easily be construed as meaning '^ Peace on earth, good- 
will to all/' and when the weather looks forbidding and 
dark clouds form over the city, as if eager for the com- 
ing storm, its great height and conspicuous position 
seemingly assures and says: '^ There is a crown beyond 
the grave." The many-colored slate mansard of the 
court-house, the stern-looking battlements which are 
placed upon the highest elevation of the Baptist church, 
the many-storied tower of the Presbyterian, and the out- 
line of the steeple under whose shadow the Methodists 
WT)rship. To the west, the deep-green trees which have 
made New Bern famous, and to the south, the grandest 
view of all. On the right is the Trent shimmering in the 
sunlight and gently, seemingly reluctantly, gliding 
towards the mightier Neuse in order to pay him homage 
and acknowledge that she is only a tributary; to the 
immediate front, first, many substantial business houses, 
then the wharves lined with shipping; a number of 
schooners, sloops, tugs, a Revenue cutter, anchored mid- 
stream, and other craft will next attract attention, and 
then James City, upon the opposite shore, with its con- 
necting railroad bridge, will centre the eye. But to the 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 169 

left, the visitor must look for the grandest realization of 
this superb view. It is the meeting of the waters of 
the stern Neuse with those of the gentler Trent, for it 
is here that the latter stream loses its identity, and the 
two combined form the grand estuary which rolls on to 
the sea. 

THE TWO GREAT CEMETERIES 

of New Bern are probably better known than any other 
in either of the Carolinas, with the exception of that 
solemn Moravian ^' cedar walk" between Salem and 
Winston, and celebrated "Magnolia'' at Charleston, with 
its huge oaks, their branches decorated with waving 
masses of Spanish moss. 

CEDAR GROVE CEMETERY 

has distinct features which make it unlike any other in 
the State, and I doubt if it has anything that borders on 
a reproduction in the United States; these features are 
the stone wall which encloses it and the main gateway. 
The first thing upon approaching this resting-place of 
"the dead that attracts the stranger's eye is this quaint 
wall which divides it from life and the living. It is 
built of a curious formation peculiar to New Bern and 
vicinity, and known as Shell liock; it has a time-colored 
and venerable appearance which makes it all the better 
adapted for the purpose. Of all the stone I have ever 
seen, none is more appropriate; of all- the walls that 
enclose the dead, none are better designed. 



170 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 



the name by which the gateway is kiiowu, being native 
to the soil, in fact of it (for it is fashioned out of the 
same stone), as if in sympathy with the grief- stricken 
relatives, weeps as the funeral procession goes under it. 
I am not writing at random, but giving facts, undenia- 
ble facts; for this rock being porous, when it rains it 
retains a considerable quantity of the water and permits 
it to gradually drop down, thus earning its name. 

Once inside of this sacred enclosure, you realize that 
you are in a cemetery that many years have made inter- 
esting. Time-eaten tombstones of ancient patterns, aged 
tombs covered with large slabs containing quaint inscrip- 
tions, and moss-grown vaults, are intermingled with 
modern and costly monuments of glistening, polished 
granite and spotless marble. 

This is also historical as well as sacred ground, for 
most active participants in five wars rest here: heroes 
that followed Washington through the snow at Valley 
For^e durino^ the Revolution which established us as a 
nation, defenders who disputed every foot of ground 
with British invaders during the war of 18J2, men 
who fought with Andrew Jackson in Florida and con- 
vinced Osceola and the Seminoles that the white man 
was destined to rule America, volunteers who fought 
with Taylor at Buena Vista or followed the fortunes of 
Scott from Vera Cruz to the very halls of Montezuma, 
and last, but not by any means least, the 



' SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 171 

SOLDIERS OF THE CONFEDERACY, 

for in its very centre and most conspicuous spot stands 
the Confederate monument. It represents the heroic fig- 
ure of a soldier who wore the gray, cut in immaculate 
marble and firmly standing upon a high and massive 
pedestal. The pose is dignified, the expression grand, 
and the entire work reflects great credit upon the people 
that had it erected and the artist who created such a life- 
like reproduction. Nearly a hundred soldiers find final 
repose from the turmoil of war and life's many sorrows 
uncler its shadow. 

The many phases of civil life are also well represented, 
for here lie the remains of those eminent statesmen and 
jurists, scholarly, logical and rhetorical William Gaston, 
and that giant in debate, John Stanley ; the two Governor 
Spaights; Joseph H. Flanner, the European agent of the 
Confederacy; Dr. Barker, the eminent phrenologist; Mrs. 
Mary Bayard Clarke, who has enriched literature with 
many gems in both poetry and prose; Mrs. Hancock, 
whose poems have so many times cheered the despondent 
and consoled the sick, and many other men and women 
who gained distinction in various spheres of life now 
sle^p "the eternal sleep" in this cedar-shaded, hallowed 
rest. 

It was on a pleasant summer's Sunday evening, about 
five P. M. (during my last visit to New Bern), that I 
ordered a buggy, and after making enquiries as to the 
road, headed the horse toward the 



] 72 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C* 

NATIONAL CEMETERY. 

It was a very lonesome drive, but its very lonesonieness 
possessed a charm that the hum of active business aud the 
bustle of a much-used road would have dispelled. Not 
a single soul did I meet after crossing the railroad track, 
which, I presume, marks the city\s line, for beyond it I 
observed only one solitary house, and that appeared 
uninhabited ; as a consequence, I can fairly say that noth- 
ing about me aj)peared to have life except the horse I 
was driving and the grand old Neuse, whose silvered 
surface looked stern and melancholy. 

It was a magnificent evening to visit a cemetery^ 
everything being in its favor : the quiet that accompanies 
the day of worship in a Christian community was per- 
ceptible everywhere, and being somewhat cloudy the 
usual glare of a closing hot summer day was dispelled, 
thus further aiding the solemn appearance as I ap- 
proached the sacred acres. To my surprise I found two 
cemeteries instead of one, for nestling close to the larger 
(the Government) I discovered 

THE HEBREWS' REST, 

the place of interment of the ancient, industrious and 
irrepressible race who trace their genealogy to the patri- 
archs who wandered with Moses, sung and fought with 
David, imbibed the wisdom of Solomon and in our own 
age produced such intellectual giants as Britain's Beacons- 
field and Leon Gambetta, the genius of the successful 
Republic of France. A few feet more and I was at the 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 173 

SACRED CAMP-GROUND, 

where lie interred, accordiDg to the record iu tlie offiee, 
three thousand two hundred and seventy-four soldiers 
and sailors who, during our late fratricidal struggle, 
wore the blue. They are from nearly every State that 
belonp^ed to the Federal constellation of stars. 

The grounds are well enclosed with a handsome and 
substantial brick wall, and near the first gate stands the 
keeper's lodge, a neat little cottage, which in architect- 
ure is a remarkably fine adaptation (considering its small 
size) of the French chateau style. It is built of that 
wonderful composite, shells petrified and imbedded in 
clay, which Nature has been perfecting for centuries in 
her mighty laboratories near New Bern, and which for 
cemetery enclosures or buildings, on account of its vener- 
able appearance, seems to be even better adapted than the 
most flawdess Parian marble. It is crowned by a slated 
mansard iu perfect harmony with the building and 
surroundings; English ivy fondly clings to its side, and 
the air is perfumed with the sweetest and choicest of 
flowers. A model stable stands in the rear, built of 
material similar to the lodge. This combination, backed 
by* the forest of trees, the varying tints of tomb- 
stones, shrubbery, grass and deep-hued flowers, makes, 
particularly when the golden sun is setting, an enchant- 
ing picture, which at once fascinates the eye and charms 
the heart. 

The grounds are grand and rank among the best 
efforts of landscape gardening in the State. It is true 



174 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

there is the usual monotony which will always acorapauy 
Government cemeteries as long as the regulation head- 
stones are used, but there is a wealth of rich, velvety 
lawns and such a great variety of stately trees, so well 
placed that they make up to a great extent for the tiresome 
effect produced by these War Department slabs. In the 
centre a tall flag-pole protrudes from a well-designed 
iron base, orname'uted with wreaths, torches, eagles, 
leaves, etc. To the left and near the road is 

SYLVAN HxVLL,' 

a happy combination of maple-trees so arranged as to 
form a large space, which assumes shape in the form of 
a Latin cross. In the centre, one can easily believe him- 
self as being within the walls of some stately cathedral 
and realize how the Gothic style of architectin-e origi- 
nated. 

Darkness had already thrown her bhick cloak over 
the earth and shut out New Bern from my sight, when 
I bid the guardian of the dead good-night and left him 
at his melancholy post of duty, left him to his lonesome 
calling and solemn surroundings, turned my horse 
towards living New Bern and soon found myself on the 
road, with the broad, rippling, ever-moving, but tireless, 
Neuse to my left, and in half an hour I once again stood 
in the hospitable-looking office of the Hotel Albert, its 
cheerful surroundings a remarkable contrast to the place 
I had just left — New Bern's camp-ground of the Fed- 
eral war quota to that great and ever-increasing army 
that defies no enemy and holds no malice. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 1 75 



Population, 7,500; leading interests, cotton, rice, fisli, 
trucking, naval stores, oysters, game, mercantile and 
manufacturing; railroad, Atlantic cS: North C^aioliua, 
Washington Bryan, President, S. L. Dill, Superintend- 
ent; steam-i)oat lines. Old Dominion Steam-ship Com- 
pany, Capt. E. B. Roberts, Agent ; Neuse and Trent 
River Steam-boat Company, J. M. White, Geiieial j\Ian- 
ager, J. J. Dissosway, Agent; Eastern Carolina Dis- 
patch, Geo. Henderson, Agent; N. C. Freight Line, S. 
H. Gray, Agent; Hyde Line, W. P. Burrus, Manager. 

The following list embraces New Hern's n)ost ener- 
getic and enterprising business establishments on Janu- 
ary 1st, 1888 : 

Ayrwultiiral luipfenioUs and Ihirdirdre. 
George Allen & Co. 
J. C. Whitty, Craven street. 

Architect and Bulkier. 
C. J. Scheelky. 

Banks. 

National, John Hughes, President; Geo. Allen, Vice- 
President. 

Green, Foy & Co. 

Boots and Shoes. 
W. E. Patterson (under Hotel Albert). 

Commission Merchants, Brokers, and Dealers in Meat. 
E. K. Bishop. 
W. F. Rountree. 

Clothiers. 
George Ash, Middle street. 
Max Schuveru. 



176 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

Drugs, Patent Medicines, Perfumes, &c. 

F. S. Duffy, Middle street. 

Hancock Bros. 

R. N. Duffy, N. W. cor. Pollock and Middle streets. 

J. V. Jordon, N. W. cor. Broad and Middle streets. 

liCinster Duffy, West End. 

Dry Goods ( Wholesale and. Retail). 
O. A. Marks, Pollock street. 

A. M. Baker. 

Dry Goods and ClothiiH/. 
M. H. Sultan. 
J. S. Cohen, Middle street. 
M. Cohen, Middle street. 
F. T. Patterson, Middle street. 
J. F. Ives, Middle street. 
Wm. Sultan, Middle street. 
H. B. Duffy, Middle street. 

Furniture, Mattresses, &c. 
John Suter, Middle street. 
New Bern Furniture Store, J. M. Hines, Manager. 

General Merchandise. 

B. B. Davenport, foot Middle street. 

Jas. F. Taylor, next to Last Chance, Middle street. 
S. H. Lane, Agent (Ship Chandler). 
J. J. Wolfenden. 

Groceries. 
Alex. Justice (wholesale and retail). 
Dail Bros, (wholesale and retail). 
Wm. Colligan, at Depot. 

Hardware ( General). 
Smallwood & Slover. 
L. H. Cutler, Middle street. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 177 

Insurance and Real Estate Agents. 
W. B. Boyd (Notary Public). 
W. G. Brinson. 

Insurance — Life, Fire, Marine and Accidental. 

W. H. Oliver. 
Watson & Street. 

Jeicelry, Diamonds and Watches. 

Bell, Middle street. 

Sam. K. Eaton, Middle street. 

Liquors, Wines, &c. (Wholesale). 
James Redmond. (See advertisement). 

Livery, Sale and Exchange Stables. 
M. Hahn & Co., Middle street. 

J. W. Stewart, Broad street, between Middle and 
Hancock. 

Manufactories. 

Thos. S. Howard, Steam Marine Railway and Ship- 
yard. 

T. F. Hall & Bro., Gunsmiths and Hotel Electric 
Bells. 

C. T. Randolph, Carriage and general repairing. 

John H. Crabtree & Co., Machinists, Fonnders and 
Blacksmiths. 

Willis & Edwards, Machinists, Founders and Black- 
smiths. 

E. M. Pavie, Carpenter and Builder. 

J. A. Simpson, Contractor, Builder and Undertaker. 

Joe K. Willis, Cemetery and Building work of all 
kinds. 

C. Erdman, Cigar Factory. 

Photographer. 
Edward Gerock, Middle street.. 



178 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

Pianos and Organs. 

Adolph Cohen, cor. Broad and Middle streets. 

Taxidermy. 
Miss A. W. Duffy. 

Undertaker. 
George Bishop. 

Agricultural (Shell) Lime. 

W. P. Burrus & Co., Market Dock. 

Commission (Cotton and Rice). 

S. W. & E. W. Smallwood. 

Confectioner (Wholesale and Retail). 

John Dunn. 

Crockery, Glass and Willow-ware. 

Alex. Miller, 61 and 63 Broad street. 

Gentlemen^ s Furnishing Goods. 

Howard & Jones. 

Sausage, Pork and Fresh 3Ieats. 

Charles E. Nelson, Broad street. 

School Books and Stationery. 

Henry L. Hall, Middle street. 



KINSTON, N. C. 

Well situated upon the banks of the Neuse, which to 
this point is navigable for steam-boats all the year round, 
stands the city of Kinston. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 179 

Its streets are broad and regularly laid out. Queen, 
its main business thoroughfare, gives a splendid oppor- 
tunity for this little city to display her business buildings, 
the majority of which are substantial structures, well 
designed and built mostly of brick, witli iron columns, 
caps, cornices and other ornaments. 

The streets upon which the residences are located are 
also broad and well shaded by two lines of trees, with 
the exception of King street, which not only has its side- 
walks protected from the sun\s rays by well-cared-for, 
wide-spreading elms, but also casts a grateful shade over 
travelers in vdiicles and their weary beasts through the 
agency of another line through th(i centre. 

The residences, generally speaking, are neat, with 
large front yards in which flowers and shrubbery show 
that the inhabitants have an appreciation for nature as 
well as architecture. 

The churches of Kinston are well adapted for the uses 
of the various congregations that own them, are well 
attended, have a neat, cheerful appearance, and some 
have excellent accoustic properties, but as they are all 
built of perishable material (wood), it is not within the 
province of this book to give them a special description. 

Having described the general features of this pretty 
little city, it is now necessary to point out its special 
attractions, foremost among which is 

LENOIR COUNTY COURT-HOUSE, 

a most imposing structure, well situated in the very heart 
of this, one of the North State's loveliest county-seats. 



180 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

Its tiiassive square Norman tower and great clock give 
it (for the Caroliuas) an unusual appearance, but adds 
much to the beauty of the town, not only when its entire 
well-proportioned elevations are visible, but also when 
at a distance it is observed as a break in the sky-line, 
towering high over the many roofs and green trees of 
Kinston. 

The next most prominent erection is 

THE CASWELL MONUMENT, 

which stands in the centre of the crossing of Queen and 
Caswell streets, and is one of tlie few public memorials 
in North Carolina that is not secreted in a cemetery. It 
is built of enduring granite and stands upon a small 
mound created for the purpose. It was erected to per- 
petuate the memory of 

RICHARD CASWELL, 

who, without a doubt, was one of the grandest types of 
pure manhood of the Colonial, Revolutionary and early 
National period. Born in Maryland, he left that colony 
early in life with a surveyor's compass on his shoulder and 
settled in North Carolina. He soon became so thoroughly 
identified with his new surroundings that he gained the 
esteem and confidence of both the people and govern- 
ment, who delighted in honoring him and placing him 
in positions of trust. When, in 1771, Tryon made his 
march against the Regulators, Colonel Caswell was 
Speaker of the Colonial Assembly, and followed him to 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 181 

the banks of the Alamance. He loyally clung to the 
Crown until Britain's laws, King and Governors became 
unbearable, w^ien he joined his adopted colony and united 
country in the successful revolution which placed the 
newborn Republic among the greatest of nations. 

This distinguished statesman and soldier, besides hold- 
ing nearly every other position of trust within the gift 
of North Carolina, both in State and Colony, was four 
times her Governor. 

The Opera House is a well-designed brick building, 
which adds much to the good appearance of Queen 
street, but the 

HOTEL TULL 

is the most imposing structure in the city, and, with the 
exception of the court-house, is the costliest and most 
impressive in the county. It is built of brick, three 
stories in height, including its well-proportioned mansard 
roof, pierced by many deeply-recessed windows. 

I know of no better way of concluding this hasty 
sketch than by a few words upon 



or, as it should be called, Parrott Park, in honor of Mr. 
J. F. Parrott, who owns the land, but generously ceded 
it for a number of years to the citizens of Kinston to be 
used as a public pleasure. It is on the opposite shore of 
the Neuse and is approached by a bridge across the river, 
which overlooks the busy landing of the Neuse and 
Trent Navigation Company, and when these steamers 



182 SOUND AND RIVEE CITIES OF N. C. 

and barges are being loaded the active scene adds much 
to the general effect. 

Upon entering the park one is much impressed with 
the diversity of its natural features ; it looks as if Nature 
made her best endeavor to perfect it. The rolling ground, 
well covered with choice grasses, perennial bushes and 
clumps of great trees, forms many handsome landscape 
effects. The citizens of Kinston take great interest in 
this lovely resort and have shown considerable taste and 
skill in its iniprovement. Brusli and trees have been 
removed where they obstructed a view and others have 
been added when they would ensure a charming vista. 
Flowers have been planted to assist their wild compan- 
ions in perfuming the atmosphere and pleasing the eye 
with their many-tiiited hues. Rustic seats have been 
placed in many shaded spots and paths cut in many direc- 
tions, so lovers have their choice, on a summer's eve, when 
planning their future, to either sit and chat in secluded 
arbors or to meander by the river side with flashing fire- 
flies for their companions and the whispering Neuse a 
fit accompaniment to their words of love. 

KINSTON AS A liUSINESS POINT. 

Population, 2,700; leading business interests, cotton, 
mercantileand manufacturing ; railroad, Atlantic^" North 
Carolina; steam-boat line, Neuse and Trent Steam-boat 
Company, J. M. White, General Manager. 

The following is a list of Kinston's leading business 
houses on January 1st, 1888: 

Bakers and Confectioners. 
McRae & Bizzell, Queen street. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 183 

Dentist. 
H. D. Harper, D. D. S., office in Opera House. 

Drugs, Patent lledicines, Perfumery, &c. 
R. F. Whitehurst, Queen street. 
Henry Dunn, Queen street. 
John E. Parrott, Queen street. 

General Merchandise. 
S. H. Abbott, Queen street. 

Dry Goods, Clothing, Boots and Shoes. 
C. W. Burt, Queen street. 

Hardware, Stoves, Building Material. 

B. W. Cacady, Queen street. 

Jeivelry, Watches and Clocks. 

C. Bailey, Queen street. 

Manufacturers. 
E. M. Hodges, A¥agons and Carts. 
Geo. B. Webb, Carriage-maker and Undertaker. 
J. C. Hay, Cabinet-maker and Undertaker. 
S. H. Abbott, Bricks and Tiles. 

Machinery, Engines, Buggies and Wagons. 
J. W. Granger, Queen street. 

Navigation Company. 
Neuse and Trent River, J. M. White, Manager. 

Restaurant. 
" May's,'' J. D. May, Proprietor. 

Real Estate and General Auctioneer. 
C. W. Burt, Queen f;treet. 



184 SOUND AND KIVER CITIES OF N. C. 



BAYBORO AND STONEWALL, 

THE TWINS OF PAMLICO. 

Bayboro and Stonewall, the rival villages of Pam- 
lico county, are pleasantly situated, the first at, the other 
near, the head of navigation of Bay river. 

The villages are separated by about one mile and a 
quarter of woodland, river, marsh and cultivated fields. 
The rivalry between these two little towns makes itself 
manifest at the church fairs which always take place 
in one or the other twice a year during the sessions of 
the Superior Court of Pamlico County. It is the cus- 
tom at these fairs to ascertain by vote which of the towms 
contains the })rettiest girl, and one is selected from each 
as a fit subject for the suffrage of citizens and strangers. 
The voters do not have to register, and all the qualifi- 
cation they require is twenty-five cents for each ballot 
cast. Repeating is allowed until the money gives out, 
and many a young man who has indulged in this pleas- 
antry has had to economize for weeks after to get even. 
After the votes are counted the successful candidate 
receives a handsome shawl, which is always presented 
by the leader of the opposing faction. 

Both towns are well situated, and with the inevitable 
growth of the back country, which must use them as 
shipping and trading points, they are destined to grow 
towards each other until they become one city. 

The facilities for water transportation are good for 
steam-boats and small sailing craft. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 185 

Each of the towns contains about two liundred 
inhabitants, enjoys a fair retail trade, mannfactnres 
considerable Inmber and some flour, but as yet have no 
buildings which require a special description. 

The following is a list of the leading business houses 
of Bayboro on January 1st, 1888: 

Drugs, Patent Medicines, Perfumery, ci'c. 
" Pioneer," Cowell & Gates, Proprietors. 

General MercJiandise. 
Fowler & Cowell. 
J. B. Turner. 
W. H. Sawyer & C(j. 

Manufa cturers . 
Miller & Hooker, Lumber. 
Fowler & Cowell, Steam Grist, Flour and Corn Mills. 

The following is a list of the leading business houses 
of Stonewall on January 1st, 1888: 

General Merchandise. 
C. H. Fowler. * 
J. B. Ferebee. 
S. W. Ferebee. 

Groceries and Confectioneries. 
S. J. Lane. 

Manufactoines. 
Bay River Lumber Company and Pamlico Steam 
Saw-mills, A. H. Whitcomb, Manager. 
Fowler's Grist-mill. 



186 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 



AURORA, N. C. 

Auroro, at the head of navigation of South river, is 
well sitnatefl in the very centre of the celebrated "rich- 
lands" of Beaufort county. These lands are generally 
conceded as being among the most productive, in an agri- 
cultural point of view, in the State, the product being 
mainly cotton, corn, rice and potatoes. Two l)ales'of cot- 
ton, one hundred and ten bushels of corn, sixty-five 
bushels of rice and three hundrd bushels of sweet potatoes 
have each been raised to the acre on the virgin soil with- 
out the use of any of the farmer's bankrupting material 
(imported fertilizers). 

This little city is well laid out and bids fair to become 
a still greater trade centre, it is blessed with an acad- 
emy which has made excellent reputation, and has an 
active, pushing business population. 

The following is a list of the leading business houses 
of Auroro on January 1st, 1888: 

Ediicational. 

Auroro Academy (male and female), R. T. Bonner, 
Principal. 

Banking^ Dry Goods, Groceries, &c. 

J. B. Bonner. 

Drugs, Patent Medicines, Perfumery, &c. 

G. D. Langston. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 187 

General Merchandise. 
F. F. Cherry (Watches and Jewelry). 
W. H. GaskiDs. 
J. B. Crawford. 
J. B. Bryau & Sou. 

Feed, Sale and Exchange Stables. 
Wm. Harvey. 



WASHINGTON, N. C, 

NORTH Carolina's ship- yard. 

Note.— This description of Washington, like that of Edenton, 
with the exception of the article on the parks, I wrote for, and was 
published in, the News and Observer of Kaleigh, in the year which 
has just come to an end, and as the intervening space of time has been 
too short to allow any great change, I am satisfied it is a laithful 
picture of Washington as it is when this book leaves the press. 

On the north bank of the Pamlico river, just thirtv- 
five miles from where it loses its identity by mingling 
its waters with those of the sound bearing the same name, 
is situated a little city containing about 4,000 iuhal)itants, 
which to-day exhibits the busiest water-front, with one 
exception (Wilmiugton), in the State of North Carolina. 
She is the fortunate possessor of a number of well-con- 
structed, cleanly-kept wharves, to which are tied in 
great numbers every conceivable craft that registers 
500 or less tons, in fact, any vessel that can come over 
Hatteras bar, which means anything below a square-rig- 
ger (ship or bark), can tie up at the wharves of Wash- 
ington, N. C, and besides the hum, the din and the 



188 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

refreshing activity of an active port, the eye is gratified 
by the vision, on a small scale, of that — to America — 
almost lost art, ship-bnilding, for at the time of my visit 
on the stocks of one of its three ship yards (Capt. Sty- 
ron's) the largest steamer ever bnilt in North Carolina 
was under construction. She was to be of four hundred 
tons burthen and to be owned by a local transportation 
company. 

This little city owns six large sea-going vessels, engaged 
in the West India trade, eight steamers and a large fleet 
of smallei" craft. These facts, coupled with the follow- 
iuir, I am satisfied will convince the reader that its future 
is indeed assured, for the steamers of five transportation 
lines dot every navigable sound and stream on their way 
to or from this active mart ; one line of railroad connects 
it at Jamesville with the Roanoke river, and a new line 
is projected, which will take her out of her former 
seclusion and connect her with the railroad system of 
the entire njition. Her 

PUBLIC BUILDINGS 

are just three in number, and all are situated on Market 
street; the court-house at one end, the town hall at the 
other end; sandwiched in between the two, with a small 
vacant lot between each, is the combined county and city 
jail. This is exceedingly convenient, as courts are held 
in both the municipal and county buildings and the jail 
can be kept full by having prisoners "fired" in from two 
different directions. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 189 

The court-house is a well-coustructed two-aiid-a-half- 
story brick building, ornamented at one end with a high 
tower, in which is placed the clock which apprises the 
good citizens that time never tires, unless the clock gets 
out of repair. At the other end prominently hangs the 
worst sounding bell that ever summoned a juror or 
embarrassed a witness. Its horrible tintinnabulation is 
sufficient to throw into convulsions judges made of less 
stern stuff than those that grace North Carolina's Bench. 

I wrote tiiese lines in the hotel office and read them 
to the judge, two resident attorneys and a number of 
other citizens that were seated around the stove and 
informed them that if in their judgment they would 
give offense, I would not send them in for publication, 
but all of them earnestly, and some, I think, ^'tear- 
fully implored " me to have them printed, with the hope 
that it will cause it to be replaced by one that will not 
prove a terror to any unfortunates living witliin the sound 
of its harsh and grating tone. The jail is a solid two- 
story building, the monotony of its red brick front 
relieved by the regulation iron bars. 

But the pride of the town, in an architectural point 
of view, is 



built in 1884; it has an impressive brick and stone front, 
with large ornamental arch windows filled with stained 
glass, and is capped by a Venetian dome. The upper 
floor is a handsomely decorated and nicely furnished hall, 
and the lower contains the city's fire apparatus, which 



190 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

consists of three powerful engines of ante-helium pat- 
tern and a fully equipped hook and ladder truck. 

Washington was at the very height of her prosperity 
when the conflict between the States commenced. This 
is well attested by two substantial bank buildings, which 
show considerable architectural pretensions in the way of 
Doric and Ionic columns. One of these buildings is 
used for a drug store, the other for a law office and dwell- 
ing. With 

CHURCHES 

the town is well supplied. The Episcopal is a large 
brick building, mantled with ivy. Its interior is impres- 
sively decorated, and a number of large windows, 
through the agency of cathedral-stained glass, admit the 
much-sought-for, dim, religious light. It is surrounded 
by a hirge, well-kept church-yard, in which, under many 
-beautiful monuments, are buried that part of Washing- 
ton's population which died in the Episcopal faith. 

The Presbyterian church is built of the same mate- 
rial, but in an entirely different style. It is a solid- 
looking structure and is also surrounded by a well-cared- 
for grave-yard. The Methodist church is also of brick, 
and also surrounded by a little church-yard, ornamented 
with costly monuments and refreshing shrubbery. While 
standing in front of this church taking mental notes 
for this article, an incident occurred which will not soon 
fade from my mind. I was approached by a pleasant- 
looking lady, her face beaming with a pure religious 
smile. She informed me that Sunday-school was about 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 191 

to commence and that strangers had a standing invita- 
tion to attencL I am hardly rated as mucli of a religious 
man, but I could not help but calculate the amount of 
good that would be done if other ladies would follow 
the religious example of the pastor's good wife of Wash- 
ington, and came to the conclusion that with many of 
the great army that find it necessary to travel on busi- 
ness, or have the wealth to see the world on pleasure tours, 
novels w^ould give way to the Bible, and chess and check- 
ers to Prayer-books, on Sunday. 

All cities, large and small, have some peculiar oi^ 
prominent features that distinguish them from others, 
and Washington is no exception. What would attract 
the attention of the observing stranger most is of a 
nature almost too grave to speak about. It is the great 
number of 

GRAVE-YARDS 

situated within the corporate limits. Besides the three 
already described four more exist, and three of these 
have their main front on the second most important busi- 
ness thoroughfare in the city (Market street). From 
this it would appear to the superficial observei* that 
Washington is a good place to die as well as to live in, 
but if he will enquire he will find that the health here 
is as good as that of any other town of its size in the 
country. The cause of so many small cemeteries is that 
North Carolina Washiugtouians believe in burying their 
dead around the respective churches, and there certainly 
seems to be no more appropriate location for God's-acre 



192 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

than that surrouuding the house in which He is wor- 
shiped. Washington also contains 

A MARINE PARK, 

pleasantly situated upon Main street. Under the shade of 
some of its wide-spreading mulberry trees quietly repose 
some monster, formidable-looking masses of iron, which, 
although neatly painted and picturesquely placed, look 
so grim and forbidding that thefy are liable to deceive a 
stranger into the belief that they are intended to hurl 
missiles of destruction in time of war, but that is a mis- 
take, for a closer inspection will show that instead of 
monsters for destruction they are designed to be warn- 
ing angels, and to show confused mariners where danger 
in form of sunken shoals and treacherous reefs exists. 

She also has an opportuity of constructing still another 
park at little expense, which would unquestionably be 
the most striking and pleasing in the State, for opposite 
the town is a pretty little island well adapted by nature 
for park purposes. At the present time its natural beau- 
ties are distigured by a number of wretched looking 
sheds, and the aroma from the foliage that shades it 
gives way to the effluvia eminating from the guano stored 
within their frail sides. 

But what will make Washington most prominent and 
give her reputation far and wide is her 

CONFEDERATE MONUMENT, 

which is to be erected in a very short time, not in an 
obscure cemetery where few strangers w^ill see it or upon 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 193 

• 

even the most promiueot square, where all who visit that 
locality can only glance at it, but at the down-stream limit 
of the city, on the very highest point washed by the 
murmuring waters of the superb Pamlico, upon the top 
of a former Federal fort made to guard the city and pre- 
vent the entrance of the very men whose deeds are to be 
perpetuated, upon a pedestal of enduring granite, will 
stand, gun in hand, the statue of a soldier of the Con- 
federacy. 

The mariner, as he sails in from Pamlico Sound, will 
see this sentinel twelve miles away, and from the base of 
the statue the eye of the spectator beholds a view that 
is seldom equalled : to the west, the active, well-shaded 
city, with a water-front well lined with shipping; north, 
the many tints peculiar to a North Carolina forest; 
south, the broad Pamlico, and east, the same stream, as 
far as the eye can reach, as with a number of graceful 
curves it rolls on to the sound, seemingly murmuring a 
requiem to the Confederate dead. 

THE BUSINESS AND BUSINESS MEN OF WASHINGTON. 

Population, 3,500; leading interests, manufecturiflg, 
ship-building, shipping, fishing, cotton and mercantile. 

The following is a list of the leading houses of Wasb- 
ington on January 1st, 1888: 

Banker. 
C. M. Brown. 

Commission Merchants. 
John Myers & Son. 
J. R. B. Havens (Miller). 
J. M. Gaskill. 



194 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

Confectioneries, Toys and Fancy Goods. 

C. H. Sterling. 

DeyitisL 

Dr. H. Snell, Main street. (Gas administered). 

Drugs, Patent 3Iedicines, Perfumery, &c. 

D. N. Bogart (under Opera House). 
Dr. D. T. Tayloe. 

Dr. S. T. Nicholson & Bro. 

Pry Goods and Clothmg. 

A. W. Thomas. 

D. T. Swindell. 
H. Morris & Bros. 

Furniture. 
J. A. Burgess. 

General Merchandise. 
W. B. Morton & Co. 

S. Spencer Bros., cor. Market and Main streets. 
M. T. Archbell, Main street. 
J. F. Buckmau. 

C. W. Tayloe (Cottou Buyer). 

Groceries ( Wholesale). 
S. R. Fowle & Son. 

Groceries ( Wholesale and Betail). 
John B. Sparrow. 

E. K. Willis, Water street, east of Market. 

B. W. Bergerson, East Market Square. 

D. R. Willis, Elast Market Square. 

Hardware, Stoves and Tinufare. 
W. C. Mallison. 

Harness, Saddles, WJrips, &c. 
T. E. Warren. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 195 

Insm^ance. 
R. C. Montgomery, General Agent (Life and Fire). 
Mutual Live Stock Company. 

Jeicelers. 
John Bell, Jr. 
J. C. Morton. 

Livery, Sale, Feed and Exchange Stables, 
S. H. Bailey. 
J. G. Chauncy. 

Machinery {General Agent). 
O. K. Stilley. 
Marble Monuments, Fertilizers and Baled Cotton. 
, W. J. Grumpier. 

Marine Railway. 
" Pamlico/' J. Myers & Son, Proprietors. 

Manufacturers. 
Myers' Cotton Seed Oil Mills, Jno. Myers, Proprietor. 
E. M. Short, Lumber. 
W. N. Arch bell, Lumber. 
Geo. W. Kugler & Son, Lumber. 

B. F. Rodman, Iron Works and Foundry. 

C. W. Philli{)s, Carriage Factory. 
Ed. Long, Carriages, Buggies, &c. 

D. S. Lidden, Ship-builder and Contractor. 

Tobacco, Snuff and Cigars ( Wholesale and Retail). 
S. H. Williams. 

Towing Company. 
Pickles Bros., Proprietors; W. Pickles, General Man- 
ager. 



196 SOUND AND EIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

THE PRESS 

OF NORFOLK, PORTSMOUTH AND SOME OF THE PRIN- 
CIPAL CITIES OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



What the four cardinal points are to the compass the 
Press, the Church, the Schools and the Law ^re to the 
community, and nowhere does the first, the acknowl- 
edged champion of right and the greatest opposing force 
to wrong, exert a greater influence than in Norfolk, 
Portsmouth and the Sound and Piver Cities of North 
Carolina. In tone, it is moral. There is no paper pub- 
lished in this section that would permit a line to disfig- 
ure its columns which would cause a blush to mantle 
the brow of the most refined lady, or that is unfit to be 
read by children. Generally speaking, they can be 
chissed conservative, except during the heat of a politi- 
cal campaign, when they are very decided, and throw 
their entire weight and energy with the party whose 
cause they espouse. 

For the benefit of advertisers and other interested 
parties, I concluded to make a special Press list instead 
of arranging the' following well-known and acknowl- 
edged champions, educators and mouth-pieces of the peo- 
ple at the conclusion of the description of their respect- 
ive cities. 

NORFOLK, VA. 

Virginian, daily ; Virginian and Carolinian, weekly ; 
Henry E. Orr, Editor; M. Glennan, Proprietor. Ad- 
dress, '^Virginian." 

Landmark, daily and weekly; S. S. Nottingham, Jr., 
Editor. Address, '^Landmark Publishing Co.'^ 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 197 

Public Ledger, ev^ening; Edwards & Fiveash, Editors 
and Proprietors. Address, '^Pllblic Ledger.'' 

Telegram, daily ; Christian Voice Publishing Com- 
pany, Publishers. Address, R. E. Turner, Manager. 

Christian Voice, semi- weekly; R. E. Turner, Editor; 
Christian Voice Publishing Company, Proprietors. 

Norfolk Progress, weekly; R. F. Woodward, Editor; 
Progress Publishing Company, Proprietors. 

Journal of Commerce, weekly ; W. Tompsou Barron, 
Editor and Proprietor. 

Herald, weekly ; W. S. Copes, Editor and Proprietor. 

Cornucopia, monthly; A Jeifers, Editor. Address, 
"Cornucopia." 

PORTSMOUTH, VA. 

Enterprise, daily ; J. AV. H. Porter, Editor and Pro- 
prietor. 

Times, daily and weekly ; J. H. Wilcox, Editor and 
Proprietor. 



University Monthly, Literary Societies of North Caro- 
lina University, Editors and Proprietors. 

DURHAM, N. C. 

Recorder, daily and weekly; E. C. Hackney, Editor 
and Proprietor. 

Tobacco Plant, weekly; W. G. Burkhead, Editor. 

EDENTON, N. C. 

Fisherman and Farmer, semi-weekly ; A. H. Mitchell, 
Editor and Manager. 

ELIZABETH CITY, N. C. 

Economist, weekly; R. B. Creecy, Editor and Pro- 
prietor. 



198 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

Falcon, weekly ; Falcon Publishing Company, Pro- 
prietors. 

North Oarolinimi, weekly; Palemon John, Editor and 
Proprietor. 

FAYETTEVILLE, N. C. 

Observer, weekly; Geo. H. Haigh, Editor and Pro- 
prietor. 

New^, weekly; J. H. Benton and W. M. Dicker, 
Editors and Proprietors. 

GOLDSBORO, N. C. 

Argus, daily and weekly ; J. E. Robinson, Editor and 
Proprietor. 

GREENVILLE, N. C. 

Eastern Reflector, weekly; J. R. AVichard, Editor and 
Proprietor. 

Democratic Standard, G. B. King, Editor and Pro- 
prietor. 

HfeNDERSON, N. C. 

Henderson News, weekly; A. Hatchett, Editor. 
Gold Leaf, weekly; Thad. R. Manning, Editor and 
Proprietor. 

HILLSBORO, N. C. 

Orange County Observer, weekly; Joseph A. Harris, 
Editor and Proprietor. 

Recorder, weekly; Parrish & Strudwick, Editors and 
Proprietors. 

KINSTON, N. C. 

Free Press, weekly. 

LA GRANGE, N. C. 

Davis Cadet, monthly ; Davis & Co., Proprietors. 



SOUND AND EIVER CITIES OF N. C. 199 

LOUISBURG, N. C. 

Franklin Times, weekly; J, A. Thomas, Editor nnd 
Proprietor. 

MURFREESBORO, N. C. 
Index, weekly; J. W. Hicks, Editor and Proprietor. 

NP:W BERN, N. C. 

Journal, daily and weekly; H. S. Nunn, Editor; 
Nunn & Harper, Proprietors. 

Free- Will Baptist, weekly; R. K. Hearn, P^ditor. 

OXFORD, N. c. 

OrphnWs Friend, weekly ; L. Thomas, Manager. 
Torchlight, weekly; E. W. Jones & Co., Editors and 
Proprietors. 

PITTSBORO, N. C. 

Chatham Record, weekly; H. A. London, Editor and 
Proprietor. 

Home, weekly; A. H. Merritt, Editor and Proprietor. 

PLYMOUTH, N. C. 

^SW, E. L. Foster, Editor and Proprietor. 



Ne2vs and Observer, daily and weekly ; J. I. McRee, 
Editor. Address, '^News and Observer Publishing 
Company." 

Evening Visitor, daily ; Brown & Utley, Editors and 
Proprietors. 

State Chronicle, weekly; Josephiis Daniels, Editor; 
Chronicle Publishing Company, Pro])rietors. 



200 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

Biblical Recorder, weekly (Baptist) ; Rev. C. T. Bailey, 
Editor a!id Proprietor. 

Christian Advocate, weekly (Methodist); Rev. F. L. 
Reid, Editor and Proprietor. 

Christian Sun, weekly (Christian) ; Rev. J. P. Barrett, 
Editor and Proprietor. 

Signal, weekly; J. C L. Harris, Editor. 

The North Carolina Teacher, E. G. Harrell, Editor. 

North Carolina Farme7% monthly; James H. Enniss, 
Editor and Proprietor. 

Progressive Farmer, weekly; L. L. Polk, Editor. 

Spirit of the Age (devoted to temperance) ; Rev. R. 
H. Whitaker, Editor and Proprietor. 

SMITHFIELD, N. C. 

Herald, weekly ; F. T. Booker, Editor and Proprietor. 

SOUTHERN PINES, N. 0. 

Pine Knot, weekly; B. A. Goodridge, Editor and 
Proprietor. 

TARBORO, N. C. 

Southerner, weekly; F. Powell, Editor and Proprietor. 

WAKE FOREST, N. C. 

Wake Forest Student, monthly; Literary Societies of 
Wake Forest College, Editors and Proprietors. 



Gazette, weekly ; H. A. Latham, Editor and Proprie- 
tor. 

Progress, weekly; Dr. A. B. Chapin, Editor. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 201 

WILMINGTON, N. C. 

Messenger, daily and weekly; J. A. Bonitz, Editor; 
Messenger Publishing Company, Proprietors. 

Star, daily ai)d weekly; T. B. Kingsbury, Editor; W. 
H. Bernard, Proprietor. 

Review, daily and weekly; Josh T. James, Editor 
and Proprietoc. 

North Carolina Presbyterian, •weekly ; John McLau- 
rin. Editor and Proprietor. 

North Carolina lledical Journal, monthly; Thomas 
S. Wood, M. D., Editor. 

WINDSOR, N. C. 

Ledger, weekly; W. H. Swain, Editor and Proprie- 
tor. 

WINTON, N. c. 

Monitor, weekly ; P. H. Welch, Editor and Proprietor. 



ATTORNEYS 

OF NORFOLK AND PART OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



This profession, which requires more individual force, 
strength of character, tireless energy and inborn talent, 
as well as educated brain, than any other, is well repre- 
sented in Norfolk and North Carolina by gentlemen 
"whose skill as advocates," whose reputation in defend- 
ing clients and whose honorable transactions and foremost 
standing in their respective social circles are well known 
throughout the land. Although they are outnumbered 



202 SOUND AND RIVEE CITIES OF N. C. 

by nearly every other calling, they have produced more 
statesmen and have been called upon to represent the 
people in the councils of both Nation and State more 
than all the others combined. 

These brilliant gentlemen, many of whose voices have 
echoed through the legislative halls of Washington, 
Richmond and Raleigh, are retained by many leading 
fii-ms, both North and South, to attend to their collecting, 
as well as other legal business, and for the convenience of 
my patrons who may require counsel I have arranged 
their names and addresses in one continuous list. 

The reason that the Norfolk Bar is not better repre- 
sented is strictly my own fault, as T delayed seeing its 
members until near the completion of the book, when 
the great quantity of work to be done in a limited time 
prevented my seeing them. 

NORFOLK, VA. 

Starke & Martin, 74 and 76 Main street. 
Walke & Old, 72 Main street, Lowenburg Building. 
Whitehurst & Hughes, 78 Main street, Lowenburg 
Building. 

H. L. Worthington, 125 Main street. 
Bruce Simmons, 78 Main street. 

AURORA, N. C. 

Thomas W. Mayhew. 

BAYBORO, N. C. 

W. T. Caho. 

COLUMBIA, N. C. 

R. P. Felton. Edmund Alexander. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 203 



DURHAM, N. C. 

W. W. Fuller. Mauning & Manning. 

E. C. Hackney. J. A. Long. 

John S. Moring. Strudwick & Boone. 

EDENTON, N. C. 

Pruden & Yann. Wm. VV. Bond. 

Julian Wood. Samuel J. Skinner. 



ELIZABETH CITY, N. C. 

Lamb & Riddle. Grandy & Aydlett. 

J. W. Albertsou & Sou. J. Heywood Sawyer. 
Frauk Vaughau. Griffin & Temple. 

FRANKLINTON, N. C. 

B. F. Bullock. 

GREENVILLE. N. C. 

Isaac A. Sugg. . Latham, Skinner & Blow. 

GOL 
Nixon & Galloway. 

gat: 
St. Leou Scull. L. L. Smith. 



T. G. Skinner. W. N. Newbold. 

Blouut & Blount. 

HENDERSON, N. C. 

Walter R. Henry. A. C. Zollicoffer. 



204 SOUND AND KIVER CITIES OF N. O. 

KINSTON, N. C. 

J. F. Wooteii. M. A. Gray. 

O. H. Allen. A. J. Loftin & G. Rountree. 

Ashlev T. Hill. Jackson & Perry. 

N. J. Ronse. C. H. Brown. 



C. M. Cooke. 

MURFEEESBORO, N. C. 

Winborne & Bro. 

MANTEO, N. C. 

J. M. Gray. 

NEW BERN, N. C. 

Simmons & Manly. L. J. Moore. 

Clarke & Clarke.* Wm. E. Clarke. 

M. D. W. Stevenson. George Green. 
Leonidas J. Moore. Henry R. Bryan. 

O. H. Guion. 

OXFORD, N. C. 

L. C. Edwards. Graham & Winston. 

J. M. Sikes. 



Latham & Pettigrew. S. B. Spruill, Jr. 



John W. Hinsdale. Haywood & Haywood. 

John Gatling. Reade, Busbee & Busbee. 

Fuller & Snow. Strong, Gray & Stamps. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 205 

Peele & Mayuard. • Argo & Fleming. 

Armistead Jones. Spier Whitaker. 

T. R. Purnell. Oct. Coke. 

J. C. L. Harris. Devereux & Wilder. 

Batchelor & Devereux. 

ROCKY MOUNT, N. C. 

B. H. Bunn. 

SHAWBORO, N. C. 

W. B. Shaw. 

TARBORO, N. C. 

H. A. Gilliam & Son. 

WASHINGTON, N. C. 

« 

W. B. Rodman & Son. John H. Small. 
E. S. Simmons. Charles U. Hill. 

George I. Sparrow. George H. Brown, Jr. 



J. B. Martin. Winston & Williams. 

Dnncau C. Winston. 

WINTON, N. C. 

George Cowper. P. B. Picot. 

WARRENTON, N. C. 

C. A. Cooke. W. A. Montgomery. 

W. H. Polk. 



WELDON, N. C. 



Day & ZollicoiFer. 



206 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

THE FISHING INTEREST. 



THE FISHERMEN AND FISH SHIPPERS OF THE SOUND 
AND RIVER DISTRICT OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



If the reader will take a map of North Carolina and 
thea arm himself with a lead-pencil, put the point of it 
where the Virginia boundary intersects the 77th degree 
of west longitude, run a line down this meridian to 34° 
30^ north latitude, and then allow the pencil to make 
an ocean trip on that parallel to 75° 30' west longi- 
tude, and run up that meridian to opposite the boundary 
line alluded to above, and on that dividing line to the 
starting point, he will enclose one of the grandest and 
most profitable fishing sections on the face of the globe. 

Within these lines, which embrace a land and water 
area about one-fifth the size of the State of North Caro- 
lina, is situated the whole of Albemarle Sound, with the 
l)est part of its great tributaries, the Chowan and the Roa- 
noke, as well as lesser streams, like the Alligator, Scup- 
pernong, Pasquotank, Perquimans, etc., all teeming with 
the choicest varieties of fish. Here is also the whole of 
great Pamlico Sound, with its wonderful oyster beds, and 
the mouths of the mighty Neuse and broad Pamlico, the 
whole of Currituck and several smaller sounds. 

In this district over five thousand fishermen find 
employment in taking from their natural element the 
great staple of the sound and river* district of North 
Carolina — fish, which include the standard herring, the 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 207 

toothsome shad, the highly prized rock, the monster 
sturgeon, besides white perch, trout, hickory-shad, blue- 
fish, mullets, mackerel, menhaden, speckled perch, bass, 
pike, flounders, eels, cat-fish and the latest addition to 
profitable fishing,, the comical-looking porpoise. The 
list can be swelled with the many varieties of shell-fish 
that are annually taken and shipped to Northern markets 
as well as consumed at home. 

The fi^llowing is a list of many of the leading ship- 
pers and proprietors of fisheries : 

COLUMBIA, TYRRELL COUNTY, N. C. 

James A. Halloway. H. W. Havman. 

J. A. Rhodes. Woodley & Spruill. 

elosepli W. Spruill. John D. Snell. 

W. H. H. Cooper. Gilbert Bateman. 

F. R. Rhodes. A. B. Snell. 

T. L. Jones. 

COLERAINE, BERTIE COUNTY, N. C. 

Wilson & Mizell. 

CURRITUCK COURT HOUSE, N. C. 

W. H. Bray. Dennis Brabble. 

B. Ballance. A. W. Parker. 

S. B. Hughes. W. Ballance. 

A. W. Brumsey. Caleb Ballance. 

G. A. Tatum. ' Luke Pool. 

E. M. Walker. 

N. C. 

B. F. Barco. S. D. Walker. 
J. B. Jarvis. S. Balla*nce. 
W. J. Walker. Henry Welsted. 

Charles Forbes. 



208 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

EDENTON, N. C. 

W. D. Rea. Shepard, Goodwin & Co. 

John C. Bond. W. L. Arendell & Co. 

ELIZABETH CITY, N« C. 

Capt. Sam. Waters. 

GOOSE CREEI 

D. B. Sadler. 

HERTFORD, PERQUIMANS COUNTY, N. C. 

J. J. Parrish. 

■ KITTY HAWK, CURRITUCK COUNTY, N. C. 

J. P. Pugh. 

LAKE 
T. P. Pugh. 

MANTEO, DARE COUNTY, N. C. 

A. J MiJler. L. M. Midgett. 

John Q. Homer. E. Meekius, Jr. 

George C. Daniels. S. E. Mann. 

MANN's HARBOR, DARE COUNTY N. C. 

William Mann. Willis Tillet. 

Avery Tillet. D. Haymen. 

Edward Mann. Daniel Mann. 

James T. Craddock. Ellis Midgett. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 209 

Martin Twiford. John D. Twiford. 

James Twiford. Samuel B. Tillet. 

T. M. Walker. J. D. Midgett. 

NEW BERN, N. C. 

E. B. Lane. G. N. Ives. 

Thomas Daniels. C. T. Watson. 

D. Bell & Co. 

OLD TRAP, CAMDEN COUNTY, N. C. 

Samuel Leary. Peter Burgess. 

Wilson Burgess. W. Burgess. 

John K. Jones. Dempsey Wilson. 

Caleb Kite. Alexander Needham. 

Nathan Kite. John Gray. 

Seth Need ham. Ben Gregory. 

POPLAR BRANCH, CURRITUCK COUNTY, N. C. 

Jordan Poynier. John Hampton. 

Mace Hampton. Mason Parker. 

W. H. Parker. * H. B. Crane. 

Pat A. Crane. J. Dowdy. 

William Simpson. Dey & Wood. 

ROCKY HOCK, CHOWAN COUNTY, N. C. 

J. D. Parrish. 

STUMPY POINT, DARE COUNTY, N. C. 

John W. Casey. John H. Wise. 

D. P. Gray. B. F. Wise. 

M. Troiford. D. B. Midyett. 

WASHINGTON, N. C. 

D. W. Gaskill. 



210 SOUND AND EIVER CITIES OP N. C. 

HOTELS. 



To the great, ever-Qioviiig army of men and women 
whose business forces them to ti-avel, or time-killing 
tourists who travel because they have no business to 
force them to stay at home, the following list of hotels, 
which number among the best in their respective cities, 
can be read with profit: 

AURORA, N. C. 

''Thompson House," Mrs. W. A. Thompson, Pro- 
])rietor. 

COLUMBIA, TYRRELL COUNTY, N. C. 

"Columbia House," W. L. Spruill, Proprietor. 

CURRITUCK COURT HOUSE, N. C. 

"Sound-Side Hotel," Wilson Walker, Proprietor. 
"Granl)crry Hotel," Geo. W. Granberry, Proprietor. 

DURHAM, N. C. 

"Hotel Glaiborne," A. B. Sites, Proprietor. 

EDENTON, N. C. 

"Woodward House," J. L. Rogerson, Proprietor. 
"Bay View," F. A. White, Proprietor. 

ELIZABETH CITY, N. C. 

"Albemarle House," Mrs. Wm. Underwood, Proprie- 
tor. 

"River View Hotel," A. L. Pendelton, Proprietor. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 211 

GOLDSBORO, N. C. 

"New Arlington," 1 ^,r.,, u , o • , 
,, ^ TT jj > Will Hunter, Proprietor, 

"(jrregory House, j ^ 

GATESVILLE, N. C. 

''Merchants' Hotel" and Livery, D. E. Riddick, 
Proprietor. 

''United States Hotel" and Livery, T. E. Hayes, 
Proprietor. 

HENDERSON, N. C. 

"Central Hotel," B. I. Powell, Proprietor. 

HERTFORD. N. C. 

"Eagle House," W. R. Shannonhouse, Proprietor. 

KINSTON, N. C. 

"Hotel Tull." 
"Nunn's Hotel." 

LOUISBURG, X. C. 

"Eagle Hotel," C. C. Harris, Proprietor. 

MANTEO, DARE COUNTY, N. C. 

" Goodwin House," J. E. Goodwin, Proprietor. 

NEW BERN, N. C. 

" Hotel Albert," M. Patterson & Son, Proprietors. 

NEW YORK, N. Y. 

"New England Hotel," cor. Bowery and Bayard (for 
gentlemen only). 



212 SOUND AND EIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

NORFOLK, VA. 

''St. James/' J. A. Kennedy, Proprietor. 

PHILADELPHIA, PA. 

"Hotel Hilton/' Hilt & Schlichter, Proprietors. 

PLYMOUTH, N.'C. 

''Latham House," Mrs. J. W. Latham, Proprietor. 

RALEIGH, N. C. 

Moseley's American and European House, 126 Fay- 
ette vi lie street. 

SWAN QUARTER, HYDE COUNTY, N. C. 

"Swindell Hotel," W. B. Swindell, Proprietor. 

WASHINGTON, N. C. 

"Merchants' Hotel," Main street, Spencer Bros., Pro- 
prietors. 

WINDSOR, BERTIE COUNTY, N. C. 

" American House," J. R. Moody, Proprietor. 

WINTON, HERTFORD COUNTY, N. C. 

"Wintou Hotel," Jordan & Parker, Proprietors. 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 213 



NORFOLK SUPPLEMENTARY LIST. 



The following list embraces all the leading transporta- 
tion lines of the city of Norfolk and several well-known 
banking houses, business establishments and offices of 
professional gentlemen : 

Railroads. 

Norfolk Southern, M. K. King, General Manager. 

Seabord & Roanoke, L. L. Myers, Superintendent. 

Norfolk & Western, W. B. Bevil, General Passenger 
Agent. 

Chesapeake & Ohio, H. W. Fuller, General Passen- 
ger Agent. 

New York, Philadelphia & Norfolk, R. B. Cooke, 
General Passenger and Freight Agent. 

Atlantic & Danville, Chas. B. Peck, General Manager. 

Norfolk & Virginia Beach, T. O. Troy, General 
Manager. 

Norfolk & Ocean View. 

Steam-ship Lines. 

Old Dominion Steam-ship Company, Culpeper & 
Turner, Agents. 

Clyde Line, J. W. McCarrick, General Southern 
Agent. 

Merchants & Miners' Transportation Company, V. D. 
Groner, General Agent. 

Baltimore Steam Packet Company, W. Randall, Agent. 

Albemarle & Chesapeake Canal Company, Franklin 
Weld, President. 

North Carolina Lines, C. W. Jester, Agent. 

James River Line, J. W. McCarrick, Agent. 

Potomac Steam-boat Company, V. D. Groner, Agent. 

Norfolk & Fredricksburg Line, Wm. Randall, Agent. 

Ronoake, Norfolk &, Baltimore Line, Chas. Gurley, 
Agent. 



214 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 

Suffolk Line, J. W. Perry & Co., Agents. 
Roanoke Riv^er Line, W. Y. Johnson, General Agent. 
Steamer Bonita, Charles Gurley, Agent. 
Norfolk & Dismal Swamp Steam-boat Company, 
Henry Iloberts, Superintendent. 

Banks. 
Bank of Commerce. 
Bank of Norfolk. 
Burrus Bank. 
Home Savings. 
Marine. 
Norfolk National. 

Baker and Confectione?' ( Wholesale and Retail). 
James Reid & Co., 87 Main street. 

Box Factory. 
W. Tompsou Barron. 

Dentist. 
Dr. A. D. Barrett, 148 Main street. 

Detectives. 
J. T. James & Co., 109 Main street. 
Dry Goods and Notions. 
H. R. Anderson & Co., 202 Main street. 
Russell & Simcoe, 200 Main street. 

Engines and. Boilers. 
T. A. Pexry, Manufacturers' Agent. (See advertise- 
ment). , 

General Commission Merchant. 
R. A. Dobie, 2 and 4 Roanoke Square. (See adver- 
tisement). 

Groceries ( Wholesale). 
Washington Taylor & Co., 14, 16, 18 Commerce street. 
(See advertisement). 



SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 215 

T. A. Williams & Co., cor. Commerce and Elizabeth 
streets. 

Groceries, Wi7ies and Liquors. 

C. W. Morse, 131 Main street. 

Iron Works. 
"Elizabeth," C. W. Pettit, Proprietor. 

Baggage Express. 
Jenkins' Norfolk & Portsmouth Express. 

Photographer. 

J. J. Faber, 21 Bank street. (See advertisement). 

Powder {Sporting and Blasting). 

Washington Taylor & Co., 14, 16, 18 Commerce street, 
(oee advertisement). 

Pork Butcher, Sausage, Head-cheese, &c. 
Wm. Proescher, 14 and IQ City Market. 

Provisions, Butter, Lard, Cheese, &c. 
H. A. Tarrall & Co., 17 and 19 City Market. 

Real Estate. 
E. C. Lindsey & Co., 124 Main street. 

Sale, Livery and Feed Stable. 
C. A. Whaley, 79 Union street. 
J. B. Brickhouse, Qd> Union street. 

Tobacco, Cigars and Snuff. 
Hamburger Bros., 93 and 95 Water street. 

Unde7^takers. 
S. H. Hines & Co., 86 Bank street. 
H. C. Smith & Co., 20 Bank street. 



216 SOUND AND RIVER CITIES OF N. C. 



NEW BERN SUPPLEMENTARY LIST. 



Ice Factory. 
George R. Jar man. 

Groceries, Wines and Liquors. 
James F. Taylor, foot of Middle street. 



INLAND NAVIG-ATION. 



XHE 



AiBiarle anft Gliesajeate Cail 



WITH THE 



Chesapeake and Delaware Canal and Delaware and Raritan 
Canal complete the Inland Navigation from 

New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore and Norfolk, 

— TO— 

MORTH CAROLINA AND THE SOUTH, 



By Canals and Inlanrl Navigation for Steamboats, Sailing Vessels, 

Rafts, &c., avoiding the dangers of Hatteras and the 

Coast of North Carolina, 

SAVING TIME AND INSURANCE. 



DIMENSIONS OF CANALS AND LOCKS. 




CANAL. 




LOCKS. 






Length. 


Width. 


Depth. 


Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal, 12 miles. 


220 ft. 


40 ft. 


7 ft. 


New Bern and Beaufort Canal, 2 " 


no locks. 






Fairfield Canal, 5 " 


no locks. 






Chesapeake and Delaware, 14 " 


220 ft. 


24 ft. 


9 " 


Delaware and Karitan Canal, 4:i " 


220 " 


24 " 


7 " 


Erie (New York) Canal, 345 " 


110 " 


18 " 


7 " 



U^^Light draft Steamers for Charleston, Savannah, Florida and 
West Indies take this route. 

For rates of tolls and maps of Canal, applj'^ at 

COMPANY'S OFFICE, 

No. 21 Grauby Street, Norfolk, Va. 



EASTERN CAROLINA DISPATCH 

FAST FREIGHT LINE. 



The Norfolk Southern Railroad 

FORMS A PART OF THE THROUGH ALL-RAIL LINE BETWEEN 

EDENTON, HERTFORD, 

ELIZABETH CITY, &c., 

— AND- 

NORFOLK, 

BALTIMORE, 

PHILADELPHIA, 

NEW YORK, 



And all points reached b}' the Pennsylvania Railroad and its connec- 
tions, affording to shippers quick, regular and reliable transportation 
by daily trains. 

U^^CaRS WILL BE LOADED TO GO THROUGH WITHOUT BREAKING BULK. 



Steam Line and Connections at Edenton. 

Steamer Plymouth (for freiuht and passen^^ers), daily for Ply- 
mouth, Windsor, Lewiston, and C. ife R. R., Jamesville, VVashino:ton, 
and J. & VV. R. R., Williamstou, Tarboro, and A. & R. R. R. ; Hamilti.n 
Tuesday and Friday, Returning steamer arrives at Edenton daily, in 
time to connect with mail train for Norfolk and all points North. 

Steamer Rauger (for freiirht and i)asseniiers), semi-weekly for 
Hill's Ferry, Palmyra, Norfleet's Landinu', Roxobel, Jacot)s' Landing:, 
Rich Square, Bridge Ferry, and intermediate landings on upper Roa- 
noke River. 

Steamer M. E. Roberts (for freight and passengers), Monday, 
Wednesday and Friday, for Columbia, Spruill's Bridy-e, or Cresswell, 
and Scupi)ernong Rivei*; returnii;g Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 
via Edenton, for C(deraine, llarrellsville, Tunis, Winton and landings 
on Chowan River, returning following mornings. 

Albemarle & Pantego R. R. (for freight and passeugcrsj, daily 
to and from Mackey's Ferry, Roper and Lee's ,VIill. 

Steam Line Connections at Elizabeth City. 
Steamer M, E. JHckerman {for freight and passengers), Tuesday 
and Friday for Old Trap, Sliiloh, Manteo, Roanoke Island, East Lake, 
Fort Landing, Newfoundland, Gum Neck, Kilkenny, Fairfield, and for 
Jarvisburgh, Newberne's Landing and Powell's Point Fi^days only. 



Wilmington S. S. Co. (for freight). Steamers Eaglet, Vesper 
and Annie triweekly for New Bern and Washington, Kinston, La- 
Grange, Morehead Cit\', Goldsboro, and stations on A, & N. C. K. R., 
Bay, Xeuse and Trent' rivers, ?'ia New Bern, Tar, Pamlico and Pungo 
rivers. South Creek, &c., via Washington. 

Steamer Bettie semi-weekly for Newbegun Creek, Nixonton, and 
all landings on Little River. 

;^^ Orde7- goods shipped hy Eastern Carolina Dispatch from Norfolk 
by Norfolk Southern R. R. ; frora Baltimore by P. W. & B. R. R., President 
Street Station ; from Philadelphia by P. W. d* B. R. R., Dock Street, and 
from New York by P. R. R., Pier 27 North River. 

Passengers. 

Mail and passenger train daily (except Sunday) from Norfolk to 
Edenton and return. Stops at all stations and connects at Edenton 
with steamers for Roanoke, Cashie, Chowan and Scuppernong rivers 
and the A. & P. R. R. Connects at Norfolk with all steam lines and 
railroads. 

Accommodation train daily (except Sundays) between Norfolk and 
Edenton. Stops at all stations. Connects at Elizabeth City with 
Steamer M. E. Dickerman Tuesday and Friday. 

Through tickets on sale at all principal stations and on Company's 
steamers, and at Norfolk, Baltimore, Philadelphia and New York. 

H. C. HUDCINS, 
M. K. KING, General Freight and Passenger Agent. 

General Manager. 



NEUSE AND TRENT RIVER STEAMBOAT CO, 

A SEMI-WEEKLY LINE 

FROM 

Hew Bern to Klnston on the Neuse, 

Snow Hill and Hookerton on the Contentnea, 

Trenton and Polloksvllle on the Trent Rivers, 

AND ALL INTERMEDIATE LANDINGS. 



assenger accommodation on these boats first-class. Rates 
guaranteed as low as by any other line. 

Close connection made at New Bern with Old Dominion Com- 
pany's Steamers for Norfolk, Baltimore, New York, Philadelphia, 
Boston and Providence. 

t^^Ship Goods Care of Old Dominion Steamers, Norfolk. ""^S^ 

J. J. DISOSWAY, G. F. A., 
J. M. WHITE, General Manager, New Bern, N. C. 

Kinston, N. C. 



H. R. AI?$DERSON & CO., 

DEALERS IN 

Dry Goods and Notions. Carpets, Mattings, Oil Glottis, Window 

LACE CURTAI.XS, CORNICES ASi) POLKS, 
No. 202 Main Street, near Church, NORFOLK, VA. 



PIONEER CIGAR P^ACTORY, 

Office and Salesrooms, Nos. 207 and 209 Main Street, Norfolk, Va. 
Factory No. 1,06"), 3d Dist. New York. 



T. A. WILLIAMS & CO., 

W H O L ES A L E 



Corner Commerce and Elizabeth Streets, 

NORFOLK, VA. 



CENTRAL MARKET, 

FRESH MEATS, TEGETABLES, POULTKY, FISH, 

OYSTERS, SOUTHDOWN MUTTON AND 

SMITHFIELD HAMS, 

Cor. Granby & Charlotte Sts., NORFOI.K, VA. 

Manufacturers' Agent, 

210 Wide Water Street. NORFOLK, VA., 



-DEALER IN- 



Engines, Boilers, Saw Mills, Grist Mills, Wood Working Machinery, Iron 

Working Tools, Shafting, Pulleys and Hangers, Pipe, Belting, Brass Goods, 

Oils and Machine Supplies of every Description. Machinery kept 

in Stock and orders promptly filled. 



J. C. BXHERIOGE & CO., 

Cotton Factors -General Commission Merchants 

Ko. 5 Roanoke Dock, NORFOLK, VA. 

Country Products of Every Dsscription Solicited, Relerence, Marine BanK, 

Wiiolssaie M Retail Dealer in Foreign anil DomeBllc Dry Goodi. 

Branoii Agency for E. Butterir-k & Co."s Celebrated P:\tternii. 
146 Main Street, Head of Markzt Square, NORFOLK, VA. 

I. O. GARDNER. W. R. FENTRESS. 

GAEDNEK &. FENTRESS, 

Real Estate Agents and Anctioneers, 

RENTAL AND GENERAL COLLECTION AGENCY, 



THE NORFOLK BOTTLING CO., 

(successors to e. av. braithwaite.'* 

innfaclarers el Mineral Waters, Singer Ale, SarsaDarilla, Tonic Beer, &c., 

76 and 78 Church Street, NORFOLK, VA. 



R. A. DOBIE & CO., 

COTTON FACTORS 

— AND — 

General Commission Merchants, 

2 AND 4 ROANOKE DOCK, NORFOLK, VA. 

J. W. PERRY & CO., 

COTTON FACTORS 

— AND — 

'^COMMISSION MERCHANTS^' 

4®=corresi>on"dkn-ce:2 solicited. ■=«& 



C. A. NASH & CO., 

MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS IN 

Sashes, Doors, Blinfis, Mantels, MWm M Stair fori 

HARDWARE, PA/NTS, OILS, BRUSHES, &c.. 
8 West I^arket (Square, NORFOI.K, VA. 



AMES & STEVENS, 

—DEALERS IN— 

Furniture, Carpeting, Pianos, Organs, 

CORNER ITIAIN AND GRANBY STREETS, 



E. V. WHITE. ) \ Consulting and 

CHAS. SCHROEDER. j (Marine Engineers. 

E. V. WHITE &L CO,, 

manufacturers' agents, 

Railroad, Steamboat and Mill Supplies, Iron, Steel, Oils, 

PAINTS AND CORDAGE, 

Steam Engines, Boilers, Tools »«* MMchinery, Belting, Packing, Laee Leather' 
Copper Rivets and Burs, Gum and Leather Hose, Wrought Iron Pipe and 
Fittings, Globe Valves, Steam Cocks, Whistles, Oil Cups, Waste, Files, Lamps, 
Lanterns, White and Red Leads, Bolts, Nats and Washers. 

No. 12 Commercial Row, near Ferry Wharf, NORFOLK, VA. 

NOTTINGHAM & WRENN, 



m 



wholesale and retail dealers in 



—manufacturers of — 

Agricultural (Shell) Lime. 

OFF/CE, 56 MAIN ST. UNDER ATLANTIC HOTEL, 



LUTHER SHELDOIM, 

Sashes, Doors and Blinds, Mouldings, Brackets, 

STAIR RAILS, NEWELS, BUILDERS- HARIWARE. 

Paints, Oils, Glass, Putty and Buildiiig Material of 
Every Description. 

Nos. 16 West Side Market Square and 49 Roanokp Ave.. 

Established in 1870. NORFOLK. VA. 



WASHINGTON TAYLOR » CO,, 

AGENTS FOR HAZARD POWDER. 

14, 16 & 18 COMMERCE STREET, NORFOLK, VA, 



—DEALER IN— 

Boot, Shoe and Gaiter Uppers, 

SHOE FINDINGS OF ALL KINDS. 

OAK AND HEIMLOCK LKAXHER. 

No. 21 BANK STREET. NORFOLK, VA. 



Dr. F. a. WALKE. ,T. x. WILLIAMS. 

WALKE & WILLIAMS, 

—DEALERS IN— 

Drugs, Paints, Oils, &c., 

CORNER WATER STREET AND ROANOKE SQUARE, 
XORFOLK, VA. 



TROPRTETOR OF PATENTS AND MANUFACTTTRER, 




beetion nt five feet Fence i^tandinii; 



Tiie CfiniMBatioii Farm, SarfleD ai Orinieilal Fence, 



FE\'CE MACHINES AND FENCE SUPPLIES, 
Factory, 84 Union Street, NORFOLK, VA. 

RIGHTS FOR SALE. 

W. G. GREGORY & SON, Agents, 



JOS. J. MelNTTRE 



-MANUFAnrREKS AfiENT FOR- 



Pipes, Tubes, Casings, Wrenclies, Boilers, Engines, 

MILLS, CIRCULAR SAWS, WATER WHEELS, 

ELECTRIC LIGHT SUPPLIES, OILS, GREASE AND ALL 
SORTS OF MACHINERY AND CASTINGS: 

A1>S0, 

Pig Iron, Babbitt Metals, Anti-Friction Metals, Packing, Belting, 

FOUNDRY SUPPLIES, &c., 

60 Roanoke Avenue, ^ORFOI^K, VA. 

Architectural Iron Work a Specialty, sucli as Iron Fronts, 

Railings, Ornaments, Verandas, Beams ; also, 

Ornamental Figures. 

CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. 



CRAYONS. PASTELS. 

J. J. KABER, 

PHOTOGRAPHER, 

Nos. 21 and 23 Bank Street, NORFOLK, VA. 

All kinds of work Pertaining to Photography Executed 
in First-class Style. 

COPYING OLD PICTURES A SPECIALTY. 



GEORGE R. WHITEHURST, 

—DEALER IX- 

Solid Leather Boots, Shoes, Trunks and Valises, 

29 MARKET SQUARE, NORFOLK, VA. 
Salesmen : 

K.\DER W. OLD, Virginia. A. J. RANGLETON, North Caroiiua. 

E. T. GRESHAM, Virginia. 



D. ETHERIDGE, Currituck, N. C. JOS. H. FULGHAM, Nansemond, Va. 

ETHERIDGE, FULGHAM & CO., 

Cotton Factors and Commission Merchants, 

15, 17, 19 and 21 Commerce Street, NORFOLK, VA. 
SPECIALTIES— COTTON, LUMBER, CORN and PEANUTS. 

—REFER BY PERMISSION TO— 
W. S. Wilkinson, Cashier Bank of Commerce, Norfolk, Va. ; Calbwell Hardy, 
Cashier Norfolk Nat. Bank; J. R. Copelaxd, Pres. Farm's Bank, Suffolk, Va. 

J. J. BURGHSS, Traveling: As:ent. 

ELIZABEThTrON WORKS, 

CHAS. W. PETTIT, Proprietor, 

280 to 286 Water Street, NORFOLK, VA., 

— MANUFACTIRERS OF — 

ENGINES, BOILERS, FORGINGS AND CASTINGS. 

Workmen sent out on application to do repairs in any part 
of the country. 

Branch Works :— Suffolk: Iron l¥orks, Suffolk, Va. 



VISITORS XO THE CIXY 



Are Respectfully Invited to the New 
Emporium of 



WICINCTON & BELL, 

Wholesale M Retail Clotliiers anfl Firiislers, 

168 Main Street, NORFOLK, VA. 



W. B. ROGERS, President. A. S. MARTIN, Secretary and Treasurer. 

SAM'L D. FULLER, General Manager. 

Old Dominion Creosoting Co., 

OFF/CE, 59 l^AIN STREET, NORFOLK, VA. 

We use the best Creosote Oil product of Coal Tar. We Creosote Piles, 
Decking for Vessels, Posts, Joists, R. R. Ties, Telegraph Poles and Arms, 
and ail Lumber exposed to damp or water. Creosote Lumber is indestruc- 
tible, and proof against all insects and decay, particularly the TEREDO 
NAVALI8 (Ship-worm). 

Thousands of dollars saved by the use of it. 

Orders will receive prompt attention. 



No. 39 MARKET SQUARE, 

Que of the 200 stores of that great importinji: corporation whose 
signs and busy delivery wagons are to be seen on the streets of every 
great city in the United States, 

Tie Great Atlantic and Paciflc Tea Co., 

not only continues as the acknovvledged Headquarters of Tide-water 
Virginia for the sale of Choice Teas, Select Coffee, Health-giving 
Baking Powders and Chemically Pure Sugars ; but also dispenses at the 
lowest possible prices the best 

New York State Gilt-edge Butter. 

We also wish to call the attention of our patrons to the fact that 
we are constantly receiving a large amount of imported Majolica China, 
Glassware, Clocks, etc., which we present to our patrons who purchase 
our Tea, Coffee and Sugar. 



"^Importer of Brandies, Wines, Gins, &c.3|e<- 

Pure Rye and Boiirbc)n Whiskies. Depot for Vii'ginia and 
North Carolina Native Wines. 

No. 28 Market Square, NORFOI.K, VA. 

S. R. SCOGGIXS &- SONS, 

Wholesale Commission Dealers In Fresh Fish, 

TERRAPIN, TURTLE, CRABS AND GAME, 
S. W. Cor. Pratt and Light Streets, BALTIMORE, MD. 

JOHN Y. MacRAE, 

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL 

Druggist ^ Seedsman, 

Corner Wilmington, Martin and ^Market Streets, 

ii^Am»m^m^^ it. o. 

SPECIAIiTIES: Soda and Mineral Waters, Fine Cigars 
and Tobacco. 



D. S. WAITT, 

It 

213 Fayetteville Street, 

• RALEIGH, N. C. 

Novelties in Clot hing 

-AND- fl 

Fine Furnishing Goods. 



p. LINEHAN. JOHN H. WINDER. 

P. LINEHAN & CO., 

CAROLINA 

Graiite aod Miim IJimes, 

OFFICE: 409 FAYETTEVILLE STREET, 

RALEIGH, N. C. 



CONTRACTS TAKEN FOR ALL CLASSES OF 



STONE FURNISHED EITHER 



Rough or Dressed in any Design 

—QUARRIES AT- 

Granite, Vance County, and Wadesboro, Anson County. 



INSURE AGAINST LOSS BY FIRE 

—IN THE- 

NORTH CAROLINA HOME IMURAME gO„ 

W. G. UPCHURCH, Vice-President. W. S. PRIMROSE, President. 

P. COWPER, Adjuster. CHAS. ROOT, See'y and Treas. 



W. H. & R. S. TUCKER Jl CO., 

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS AND JOBBERS IN 

Foreip aM Doiestic Dri Mi, Hats, Boots, Sloes, 

CARPETINGS, NOTIONS, &c., 

Nos. 123 and 12.5 Fayetteville St., 12-1 and l-2fi S. Wilmington St., 

Visitors to the Capital are invited to visit our store. Mail Order Department 
Complete. Samples sent on application. 



JOHN S. PKSCUD, 

Ho. Its FAYETTEVILLE ST.. 

RALEIOH, N. C, 



WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALER IN 



Drugs,* Medicines, -^ KliemiGals, 

F/NE TO/LET SOAPS, PERFUMER r. 

Fancy Toilet Articles, Trusses and Slioulder Braces, Orass 

and Garden Seeds, Pure Wines and Liquors 

for Medicinal Purposes. 

NOWITZKYS INDIAN TEA. VICTORY. ETC.. ALWAYS ON HAND. 




BLACKWEU'S 

DURHAM TOiir' 

fHONEST, 
POPULAR, 
UNIFOei¥i, 
RELIABLE, 

SATISFACTORY 



Is the Most 



,3^jii5=5^.f, SMOKING TOBACCd 

m^jScjgl drl I EVER PUT UPON THE MARKET, 

sitvi.ited in the Immediate section of country tliat produces a grade of Tobacco that In textun 
lliivor and quality is not grown elsewhere in tlie world, the popularity of these goods Is only llmt 
ed by the quantity produced. We are In position to command the choice of all lirn V RCC". 
offerings upon this market, and spare no pains or expense to give the trade the f L li I D Lu 1 

Ladies' Choice, Plaiu, Stroi M Salt Scotcli Snnff, 

AND 'NORTH STATE MILLS" SWEET SNUFF, 

Are the Best Snuffs on the Market. 

MADE FROM THE BEST NORTH CAROLINA LEAF. 

MADE IN NORTH CAROLINA. 
A SOUTHERN ENTERPRISE AND SHOULD 

RECEIVE UNIVERSAL PATRONAGE. 

R. F. MORRIS k SON MANUFACTURING CO., 

OF durhaIv 

SMOKENg 
TOBACCG 

n Selected Leaf from GOLDEN BELT 01 
" North Carolina. TRY IT. 

SOLO ON ITS OWN MERITS FOE A HYING PEOFrT. 

> not offer Jewelry. Fnmiture, Gift*, or agree to pay your rent, takt 
; .a into partnership, set a broKen lep. or Keep your gas meter fron 
o luntine too muih. or perform any other miracle; bnt do promise tc 
r vn "lu: Bi:ST SlYIOKING TOBACCO ON THE MAR- 
ii. ;:T, c.t as LOW A PRICE as is consistent with quality. 

1= I LYOK & CO. DURHAM, N. C 





BE 
>0N EARTH 



JAMES REDMOND, 

NEW BERN, N. C, 

f HOLESALE LIljDflR DEALER 

—AND MANUFACTURER OF— 

Ginger Ale, Sarsaparilla, 

Lemon Soda, Buffalo Mead, 

California Pear Cider, Etc. 

IN CONNECTION WITH THE AGENCY EOR 
BOTTLING 

The Bergner & Engel Brewing Company's Lager Beer, Porter, fie, 

I KEEP ON HAND A FULL LINE OF 

WINES AND LIQUORS 

AT WHOLESALE, 

Which will be sold by the Barrel or Gallon at VERY 
LOW FIGURES for CASH. 

Ginger Ale equal to best Imported and superior to any 
procurable in North Carolina. 



ESTABLISHED 1866. 

M. HAHN & CO., 

Sale, Peed and Li\^ery Stables, 

132 and 134 Middle Street. NEW BERN. N. C. 

Horses ana Mnles Constantly on HaM H tlie Lowest Casli Prices. 

DROVERS ACCOX^IMLOD^^^TED. 



EASTERN NORTH CAROLINA 

MARBLK WORKS 

Mouumeiit?, Tombs, and all kinds (irrave and Building work 
in Italian and American 3Iarble. 

ORDERS WILL RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION. SATISFACTION GUARANTEED. 

JOE K. WILLIS, Proprietor. 

HORSES, MULES ^^^ PONIES. 

SALE AND LIVERY STABLES. 

A full supply of good Horses, Mules and Ponies always on hand, 
which will be sold very low for cash, or on time with good security; 
also, Buggies, Road Carts, Harness, Whips, etc. It will be to your 
advantage to call on me before purchasing. A man in the Stables 
at all hours, dav and night. 

J. W. STEWART, 

Broad Street, New Bern, N. C. 

GEORGE ALLEN &> CO., 

TSIEW BERN, N. C 
General Hardware, REAL ESTATE AGENTS, 

Agricultural Implements, offer for sale 

Farm Machinery, 23,000 Acres Land, embracing Im- 

' proved Farms and Pine Timber 
Builders' Materials, ; Laud. 

Fertilizers, GEORGE ALLEN & CO., 

Plow Manufacturers. ; New Bern, N. C. 



SAjVI'L T. SKIDiVIORK, 

Wholesale Commission Fish Dealer, 

142 and 144 BEEKWAN STREET, 
Opp. Fultou ITIarket, NE\¥ TORK. 

THIOS. S- I?,OG-ERS, 

WHOLESALE AlID COMMISSM DEALER IN FRESH PISH, 

148 Fulton lyiarUet, r^HW VORK. 

ESTABLISHED 1842. 

AMERICAN NET AND TWINE CO., 

43 Commercial Street, I 172 Fulton Street, 

BOSTON, MASS. I NEW YORK. 

—MANUFACTURERS OF— 



mvwMM^ 



OF ALL, I>ESCRIPTIONS. 



ESTABLISHED 1827. 

EDWARD SMITH & CO., 

— MANUFACTURERS OF— 

Fine Varnishes and Coach Colors, 

158 WILLIAM STREET, NEW YORK. 

B. F. HILT. H. LEHLICHTER, Formerlv of Commercial Hotel. 

HOTEL HILTON, 

1100, 1111 and 1113 Filliert Street, ?, ?quares from Penna. R. R. Depot. Filbert 

Street Cars pass the door. Opposite Farmer's Market. 

PHILADKI^PHIA. 



I. ^^. LEE <Sc CO-, 

►^WHOLESALE COMMISSION MERCHANTS, FRESH FISH, GAME AND POULTRY^ 

27 and 28 Dock Street, Fish Market, Philad'a. 
Referen<£!^: — r. f. rioKANCE, Agent N.York & Philad"a New Line, Sixth 
and Chestnut bt>-. : -. \ . 1^ Hill, General Agent Adams Express Co., Phila.; 
National Bank of Northern Liberties, Third and Vine i^s., Philad'a, or any- 
Wholesale Fresh Fish House in the United States. 
^^-Consignments a Specialty. Shipping Orders Promptly Attended to.-=^l 



JOS. s.^L03^wIO^s^SK:■5^3 

— MANUFACTURER OF — 

Ginger Ale, Sarsaparilla, Lemon Soda, and different Mineral Waters, Bottler 
of the Celebrated Bergner & Engel Brewing Company's Lager Beer, 

ELIZABETH CITY, N. C. 



J. H. ZIHGLKR, 

ELIZABETH CITY, N. C, 

Keeps constantly on hand Wood and Metallic Cases and Caskets. Orders hy 
Telegrapli attended to, day or night. 



WILLIAM B. RODMAN & SON, 

Real Estate Agents, Owners of Lands in Beaufort, Hyde, Car- 
teret and other Counties, including Oyster (xrounds. 



J. F. SANDERS, 

MANUFACTURER AND PEAI.ER IN 



EXCELSIOR ROAD CART 



^5 Guaranteed the Most Easy and Comfortable Riding 

Two-Wheel Vehicle made. 



GO 



:=c) 




Patented June 30, 1.S85. CT-" 

Carriaps, Bips, Roafl Carts, Harness, f ieels, &c., 

EI^IZABEXH CITY, N. C. 

Allen's Forty Lessons, Double Entry Book-keeping. 

Forty recitations from this book will impart more and clearer informa- 
tion than has heretofore been given in 100 lessons. Used and commended by 
a large number of the best educators. Price, $1.50. Introduction price. Sl.OO. 
Sample copy sent on receipt of $1.00. 

« GEOBGE AL.L.E1V, 

New Bern, N. C. 



WORCESTER'S 

Unabridged Q^RTO 

DICTIONARY 




ir without T'enison's Patent Index. 



—ENLARGED BY THE ADDITION OF— 

A New Proiioiinciiig- Biographical Dictiouary of nearly 

12,000 personages, and a New Pronouncing' (xazetteer of the 

World, noting- and locating over 20,000 places. Containing 

also over 12,500 New Words recently added, together with a 

Table of 5,000 Words in General Use, with their Synonymes. 

ILLUSTRATED WITH WOOD-CUTS AND FULL-PAGE PLATES. 

The National Standard of American Literature. 

Every edition of Lonsrfellovv, Holmes, Bryant, Irving, Whittier and other 

eminent American authors, follows Worcester. "It presents the usage of all 

great English writers." It is the authority of the leading magazines and 

newspapers of the country and of the National Departments at Washington. 

OLIVER WENDELL HOLMES says: 
" Worcester's Dictionary has constantly lain on my table for dailj' use, and 
Webster's reposed on my shelves for occasional consultation." 

The Recognized Authority on Pronunciation. 

Worcester's Dictionary presents the accepted usage of our hest public 
speakers, and has Vjeen regarded as the standai'd by our leaiiing orators, 
Everett, Sumner, Phillips, Garfield, Hillard, and otiiers. Most clergymen 
and lawyers use Worcester as authority on pronunciation. 

From Hon. CHAS. SUMNER. 

" The best authority." 

From Hon. EDWARD EVERETT. 

"His ortliography and pronunciation represent, as far as I am aware, the 

most approved usage of our language." 

From Hon. JAMES A. GARFIELD. 
"The most reliable standard authority of the English language as it is now 
written and spoken." 

From Hon. ALEXANDER H. STEPHENS. 
"Worcester's Dictionary is the standard with me." 

FOR SALE BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. 

J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY, Publishers. 

715 and 717 Market Street, Philadelphia. 



S- :r. scoG-GJ-insrs, 

BALTIMORE, MD., 

The Largest Fresh Fish Commission House in the South. 

BEST PRICES OBTAINED. 

Etabmshkd IV 1SIT. 

~E ACH FO W ^r in j,^ j^ ^5^ kIES 




A DOLLAR SAVED IS A 
DOLLAR MADE. 

Bennettsville, S. C, Sept. 2r, 1SS7. 
aFkss. BovKiN, <^'ai;mkk it Co.: 

Gextlkmkn: — I liave (ielayeW loply- 
iny; t''> your t'avoi- of August ;^>()tli to 
-ee the result of the exeessive rjiins 
on oar crop. On the /'and.si, although 
very sandy, w!iere I useii your t'crti- 
h'zc)' the crop i- growing: and is full 
of fruit. The >ame kind of lands, 
with other manures, has st(Tppe<l 
growing more than a month ago. I 
am well satisfied it is to my interest 
to use the Homh Fektilizkk, and ex- 
pect to use it on my ne.xt year's crop. 
Yours trulv, 

R. A. DTOLASS. 



TON OF FBd^MiT 



ZESl. 



— MAMTAGTUKED HV- 

BOYKIN, CAREER & CO., 

Nos. 11 & 13 N. Liberty Street. BALTIMORE, MD., 

Importers and Dealers in Agricultural Chemicals and 
Fertilizers. 

i^=-Estimates on Private Foiniulas given on Application.^^S. 



K. KUHN &. SONS, 

Dealers in Hides, Skins, Furs, Wool, Wax, Feathers, Tallow, 

Fishsounds, «kc., 

434 Light Street, Wharf. (Old No. 148), BALTIMORE, MD. 

RICHMOND HAIB DYE. 

Black and Brown. 

As an instantaneous, perma- 
nent, innocent, and beautiful 
dye for the liair. and especially 
for the beard, t his preparation 
stands at the licad of the list. 
Any shade, from a Raven black 
to a light Brown, may be ob- 
tained at once by using it ac- 
cording to directions. In each * 
I10X is a paper with full direc- 
tions for its use, and also 
unqualitied testimonials from 
Barbers, who have used it, and Merchants, who 
have sold it by th.ousands, as to its unequaled 
superiority, all of which may be substantiated by 
X trial. Sold at retail by Druggists generally. 




WEBSTER'S UNABRIDGED. 



Contains 3000 more Words and nearh^ 2000 j Besides other valuable features it has 
Illustrations than any- 
American Dictionary. 



more Illustrations than any other ! ■ DirTinNARV 

American Dictionary. ftUIUMUllHni, 




118,000 Words, 3000 Engravings, 

A GAZETTEER OF THE WORLD, 

locatingand di-scrihing 2."),00(i places, 

ft BIOGRftPHICflL DICTIONftRY, 

of nearly 10,000 Noted Persons, 

ALL IN ONE BOOK. 



Webster is Standard Autliority in the Gov't Prmtm- Office, and with the 
Supreme Court. It is recommended by State Supt's oi ■ "^'"ols m 36 States, 

and by the leading College Presidents. All the leading Ser, . ut School Books pub- 
lished in the United States are based upon Webster, the acknowledged Standard 
of the English Language. 

SPECIMEN TESTIMONIALS. 

Chief Justice Waite, of the U. S. Supreme Court, says : Webster's Dictionary is 
recognized as standard authority in the court over which I preside, and its uselulness 
increases as the successive editions appear. . . ^^ . x • ^i tt. 

The Supreme Court of A'a., Oct., 1886.— In our opinion it is the best in the Eng- 
lish language. We not only recognize it as standard authority, but deem it invaluable.— 
Sinned hif all the Judries. „ ^ . -. e j.u 

Similar expressions have been received from the Supreme Courts of many of the 
other States, including New York, 111., Neb., Minn., N. C, Ga., Ind., Mo O., Penn. &c. 

Government Printing Office, Washington, Oct. 21, 188b.— Webster will con- 
tinue to be the standard in the use of the English language j^^j.t»;gj5ffi-^«;p„,^., p,,„,,,. 

Published by G. & C. MiiFw-iAM & CO., Sp ringfield, Mass. 

PURCELL, LADD & CO., 

Wholesale Druggists, 

— IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IX — 

Paints, Oils, Dyes and Varnishes, 

—MANUFACTURERS OF— 

FINE PERFUMERY, 

No. 5 Governor Street, RICHMOND, VA. 

ESTABLISHED 1840. 



OTIIE 



V 





NEW be:rn, n. c. 



M. PATTERSON & SON, Proprietors. 



The conceded Palace Hotel of the Carolinas is situated in the 
very business centre of the historical city of New Bern, with its 
many miles of shelled streets leading to points of interest, and good 
roads to the contiguous land and waters of Onslow and Pamlico 
counties, so abundant in game and fish that all who have visited 
them agree that they are unequalled in the South. 

In the construction of the ALBERT an experienced architect, 
who makes hotel designing a specialty, was instructed to so combine 
all modern inventions relating to hotels in such a manner as to 
insure every convenience and comfort to both the tourist and com- 
mercial traveler. 



RATES, $3.00 PER DAY. 



Allen's Forty Lessons, Double Entry Book-keeping. 

XHIRD EOITIOBJ. 

Forty recitations from this hook will impart more and clearer 
information than has heretofore heen tjiven in 100 lessons. Used 
and commended hy a large number of the best educators. Price, 
$1 50. Introduction price, '$\. 

Sample co{)y sent on receipt of $1. 

GEORGE ALLrEN, 

New Bern, N. C. 





out- Q 

ijYPOPHOSPHITES 

ALMOST AS PALATABLE 
AS MILK. 

The oil is so disguised tliat 

the most delicate stomach 

can take it without 

the slightest 

repugnance. 

Reinarlifible as a 
FLESH PU(;>DI CER. 

Persons sain rajudly 
while tali in.? it. 
SCOTT'S EMULSION 

Is acknowledged by nniuerous Physicians in the Jnited 
States and many tcr-ign countries to be tlie FIZIEST 
and BEbT preparation of its class. 

—FOR THE CURE OF— 

coissit:»iptiox, scsofila, general 
deuility, wastang din eases ci" 

CHILDKEX, and CHKOXIC COLGHS. 



FOR SALE 
BY ALl, DKI(;GISTS. 



iTT&BOMEJewYorK. 



q^HE NORFOLK VIRGINIAN, 
X TuBLisHBD Daily Except Monday. 

Mail subscriptiou .|5.00 per year. 

The Weekly Virgbdaii. and Caroliniau published every Saturday at oue 
dollar per aDuum. 

M. GLENNAN, Owner. 



THE NEWS AND OBSERVER, 
The Leading Nevvspapeu of North Carolina. 
Raleigh, N. C. 
The Daily .-^T.OO. The Weekly $1.25. 
Seud for sample copies. Circulates iu every county iu the £..^te. 

THE DAILY JOURNAL, 
New Bern, N. C. 
Published every day except Monday. Subscriptiou $5.U0 per annum. 
Weekly Journal, $1.20. 

n. S. NUNN, Editor. 
', E. HARPER, Manager. 



THE ECONOMIST. 
Established in 1S7'5. 
Published every Tuesday at Elizabeth City, N. C. 
Subscriptiou, $2.()U per annum. 

R. B. CREECY, 
Editor and Proprietor. 



T 



HE FALCON, 

Day of Publication, Friday. 
SubsciiptioD, $1.00 per annum. 

Address, FALCON PUBLISHING COMPANY, 

Elizabeth City, N. C. 

FISHERMAN AND FARMER, 
Edenton, N. C. 
Published every Friday, 
Subscriptiou, $1.50 per annum. 

A. H. MITCHELL, 
Editor and Manager. 

THE GOLD LEAF, 
Henderson, N C. 
Published every Thursday. 
Subscription, $2.00 per annum. 

THAD. R. MANNIxNG, 
Editor and Proprietor. 

SMITHFIELD HERALD, 
Smithfield, N. C. 
Published every Thursday. 
Subscription, $1.50 per annum. 

F. T. BOOKER, 
Editor and Proprietor. 



J. 14. WINKELMANN & CO., 

45 SOUTH SHARP STREET, 

BALXIIVIORE, IVID., 

Dx^UGGISTS. 



Essential Oils, Tootli aud Hair Brushes, Cliamois Skins, 
Perfumery, and all kinds of Druggists' Sundries. 



PROPRIETORS PROCTOR'S LIQUID GLUE, FLEMMING'S TEA- 
BERRY TOOTH POWDER, PROCTOR'S INSECT POWDER, 
SOUTHERN BOUQUET EXTRACT. 



ALSO HAVE A FULL SUPPLY OF 

Druggists' Scales and Show Cases. 



FITTING UP NEW DRUG STORES 

A SPECIALTY. 



We would be happj' to have you give us a call. 

J. H. WINKELMANN & CO., 

45 S. Sharp Street, Baltimore, Md. 



NOTICE! READ AND REMEMBER 



Realizing the fact that there are many evil-disposed beings (I omit 
the word " human ") that have fallen so low as to even play upon the 
sick by palming off some vile imitations for my established medicines, 
I have concluded to place my portrait as well as my autograph upon 
each wrapper of my ditlerent preparations, in order to further protect 
my patrons from the impositions of these ghouls, and I respectfully 
caution the public not, under any circumstances, to purchase unless 
these are attached. 

No matter how good the reputation of the dealer may be that you 
purchase from, if he proposes to sell you ray medicines in bulk, or 
without labels, you can put him down as a deliberate fraud, and sooner 
or later you will find it out, for if he misrepresents about one article, 
he will about another. 



NOWITZKY'S INDIAI^ TEA, 

For the Liver, the Kidneys, and the Blood, 

is manufactured under the direct supervision of Capt. GEORGE I. 
NOWITZKY, who for three years was in the employ vf the General 
Government at Fort BrUlger, Wyoming Territory, Fort Churchill, State 
of Nevada, and Camp Douglas at the base of the Wasatch Mountains, 
overlooking Great Salt Lake City. 



Nowitzky's Indian Tea Pills 

AND 

NOWITZKY'S LIQUID INDIAN TEA 

Are both prepared from the same roots and herbs from which the 
original "Indian Tea" is manufactured. 



is a preparation for the teeth manufactured from Calfornia Goat Root 
and other ingredients particularly adapted for the purpose. 



Nowitzky's Wild Sage Soap, 

FOR THE HAIR, FACE AND BODY. 

It restores the hair, promotes its growth and prevents its falling out ; 
it beautifies the complexion, makes the skin smooth and healthy, and 
as a body or bath soap it is beyond comparison with any existing 
article. 

In its manufacture I have incorporated Nevada Wild Sage, Domestic 
Sage and Soap Weed; in fact, these ingredideuts, with rain-water and 
a very small percentage of Alcohol, constitute the medicinal formula. 

All observing people have been great!}' surprised in their travels 
through the Territories and Mexico at the entire absence of bald- 
headed inhabitants, and the only reason given for the oft-repeated 
question '* Why don't Indians and Mexicans get bald?" is that they 
wash their heads in Wild Sage Water. 



"NOWITZKY'S EMERGENCY." 

This is a combination of tbe celebrated Jesuit Mission Medicine, 
entitled " Nowitzky's Victory," "The Oil of Life," and the "Good 
Old Samaritan," and contains the many properties within itself which 
has made all of them household words. 

"Nowitzky's Emergency " will Cure the Following Diseases : 

Colic, Cramp, Cholera, Cholera Morbus, and Diarrhcea. — 
Drink sixty drops in a wine-glass of water and bathe the feet and 
stomach with the medicine full strength. 

Rheumatism, Neuralgia and the Gout.— Bathe the part affected 
and use Nowitzky's Indian Tea. 

Kidney Complaint.— Bathe the back freely. 

Brain Fever. — Bathe the head and breast freely. 

Piles. — Dilute half water and apply upon the part affected. 

Coughs, Colds and Sore Throat.— Bathe the throat and chest. 

Headache. — Bathe the head. 

Deafness. — One drop in the ear night and morning. 

Earache. — One drop in the ear and bathe externally. 

Sore and Weak Eyes. — Shut the eyes and apply the medicine. 

Toothache. — Wet a piece of cotton with the medicine and bathe 
the face if swollen. 

Rattlesnake, Scorpion, Spider, Dog and other venomous 
Bites. — Apply immediately on the wound. 

For Sprains, Aches, Bruises, Bunions, Corns, Etc. — Apply 
externally. 



Nowitzky's Dismal Swamp Catarrh SnDff, 

A NEVER-FAILING REMEDY FOR CATARRH AND COLD IN THE HEAD 



Nowitzky's Vocal Stimulants, 

HARMLESS, YET EFFECTIVE. 

Made entirely from vegetation cultivated or growing wild within the 
boundaries of the United States. These Stimulants are particularly 
adapted to strengthen and invigorate the voices of Ministers, Lawyers, 
Singers, Public Speakers, Actors, Auctioneers, etc., and also for the 
cure of Coughs, Colds, Sore Throat and Bronchial affections. 

Address, GEO. I. NOWITZKT, 

Care Chas. W. Crittenton, 
115 Fdlton Street, New York. 
Or GEO. I. NOWITZKY, 

Norfolk, Va., and Raleigh, N. C. 




ESTABLISHED 1874. 



FOR CLOTHING FOR MEN AND BOYS 





h., 



(Succes'sors to R. B. Andrews & Co.) 

I Clolers and Hatters, 

;| Fine Dress Suits a Specialty. 
■1 RALEIGH, N. C. 

Lowest PossiWePrices&iiaranteei 



Cg>-^i=^ 







RALEIGH, N. C. 



J><^S::=^^' 



AUG 15 1900 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 444 289 1 « 



